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dannybuoy

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Posts posted by dannybuoy

  1. Agree with the BDI21 recommendation as a solid starting point!

    Also the Zoom B1on / B3n do a pretty damn good emulation of a Sansamp BDDI and Darkglass B7K.

    For studio use you can record dry and do everything via plugins like Helix Native (which has a free trial!), but a common trick for heavier music is to mix a clean lowpassed compressed signal with a highpassed distorted signal. The Tech21 DP3X and Darkglass X7 can do this trick in one pedal.

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  2. If looking at the Billy Sheehan one, avoid the original version and go straight for the Deluxe. The dirt channel is out of phase with the clean so it sounds weird and drops low end when blended unless you put another phase inverting pedal in the fx loop. The Deluxe version fixes this with a phase switch.

  3. 6 hours ago, Bankai said:

    It has a slave output. Connect that to a DI, and voila. Same, if not better end result than if it had a built in one.

    That’s what I do with mine. 

    You can also connect something like a Radial JDI or Darkglass Elements in parallel with the speaker cab to capture the additional character that the power tubes provide with the addition of a speaker sim.

  4. Setting the attack/decay knobs is crucial with these and others like it such as the Meatball. If attack is slow but decay is fast, it'll never sweep. If attack is fast but decay too slow, it'll stay wide open most of the time.

  5. The Agro is more tube amp like, it also sounds like it has a built in speaker sim that adds a lot of 70s Geezer Butler if that's your bag! Can't say I've tried it with an active bass though but it works well with a high output passive BB1025X.

  6. Yeah, I've had the original Vintage and the Ultra. It doesn't react like tubes or compress like the Spark, it's more like it keeps your dynamics intact and adds a layer of mild fuzzy harmonics on top. Also quite wooly sounding unless you get the newer Ultra with the attack switch which kicks in a high mid boost before the clipping. It might work out for you!

  7. 11 hours ago, Al Krow said:

    Very useful and at [0.55] he notes that "Ade Emsley, head designer, put the preamp of the AD200 into the Mk2".

    Have they changed the EQ settings so we now have both boost and cut? Our own Dan Veall at [7.45] is suggesting that flat is at noon with the Mk2, which is quite different to comments about the Mk1.

    Orange Terror Bass | Review - YouTube

    I doubt it, the AD200 has a passive EQ also that isn't flat at noon. Maybe Dan was just going off of the graphics by the knobs and the manual and assuming they were regular boost/cut (like most people would).

  8. It’s not like a normal active EQ - the adjustments are very subtle but affect a wide band of frequencies, so I find the centre points to be largely irrelevant. BassGearMag measured the v1 EQ with various graphs here but they now charge $2 to read the issue:

    https://www.bassgearmag.com/product/issue-6-bass-gear-magzine-digital/

    They reviewed the AD200 also and I expect they would’ve measured that one too:

    https://www.bassgearmag.com/product/issue-13-bass-gear-magzine-digital/

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  9. 5 hours ago, Al Krow said:

    Interesting. Does sound like they've upped their game with the Gen 2 OTBs and these could definitely be worth a look.

    I guess that rules out the 1000W OTB Gen 1 for me then. But 500W at 4 ohm = around 300W at 8 ohm [(?) given that it's not precisely linear] should hopefully be just enough head room - I do value the headroom I currently have on tap with my DG M900 A&O, not least in not having to push the amp too hard whilst keeping pace with a 5 piece rock band.

    The OTB 500 is the loudest 500W amp I've ever had, I think BassGearMag benched it peaking at 900W. I don't think you'd find yourself short of power and needing the 1000W version!

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  10. Great comparison but the shootout vid doesn't do the BBM justice, having it set to clean mode with the volume so low. It would've been a fairer comparison having it set to normal mode.

    It's a major flaw of the pedal though that dry mode always has 100% dry signal, so to use that mode effectively you have to pump up the volume to get a satisfactory wet/dry blend then somehow reduce the volume again after (which is why the master volume mod is popular on these!).

  11. 6 hours ago, Bankai said:

    I owned a 1st Gen TB500 and spongey sums it up nicely. I’d maybe even go so far as to say woolly. I have an AD200B now (which is for sale on this forum!) and it’s very different. That can do glass clean through to grind.

    Wooly is apt. The 2nd gen OTB is supposed to be closer to the AD200B though (which I've also owned in the past), I'd like to compare them!

  12. 6 hours ago, Supernaut said:

    How does the VTDI and YYZ differ? Are they similar circuits? 

    Similar yet different - researching YouTube demos would give you a better idea than me trying to convey it in words.

  13. I thought the Ultimate Drive dropped the lows quite a bit unless you set the tone control really low to the point of it being too muffled. The American Sound has more low end for sure.

    It's the low end hitting the circuit that tends to 'bottom out' overdrives, I find the Tech21 VTDI and YYZ have good features to counter this. The VTDI character control is a high mid boost before the clipping stage; so crank that up and compensate by backing off the blend and adjusting the EQ. The YYZ has a button to lop off the deep lows going into the drive section, which you compensate for by blending in clean low end (the clean channel is EQ'd to boost the lows and roll off the mids/highs). The Amptweaker Tight Drive does something similar too.

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  14. Generally after compression so that your settings don’t affect  the compression. Unless you want to to affect the compression!

    Generally after distortion so that you can adjust the tone after the distortion. Unless you want to adjust the tone before the distortion! E.g. a VT Bass has 2 mid controls, one before the drive section (the character control) and one after along with the rest of the EQ. A high mid boost into dirt is a common thing - it’s effectively what the attack control does on a Darkglass B7K.

    Other than that it doesn’t really matter - it might slightly affect how your filter reacts or how your octave tracks, so later in the chain may be preferable.

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