BigRedX
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Posts posted by BigRedX
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Ta.
That's a cool looking bass. Pity they're not being made anymore... -
[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=1077"]Bass Day?[/url]
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Overwater strings are suitable for 36" scale (I have a set on my Extra-Long scale Overwater Original 2 at the moment) and don't have any taper until they reach the silk wrap (you should be OK unless you're through-body stringing in which case the active length will be marginal). Alternatively you could try [url="http://www.newtonestrings.com/"]Newtone[/url] who can make strings to just about whatever spec you want.
However neither brand are coated though... -
I've not tried Elixer bass strings, but both the guitarists in my band use Elixiers and I have to say that these are horrible in comparison to the D'Addarios I use on my guitars, so unless I ever get a free set I can't see any incentive for me to try the bass versions.
Having said that though I've tried two different sets of D'Addario bass strings and not liked them much so maybe my logic's not all it should be? -
That Esh looks tasty!
Any chance of some more pics? Headstock looks interesting... -
[quote name='dood' post='21508' date='Jun 21 2007, 06:29 PM']Or there's this one too..
[url="http://www.bkelec.com/Pro/Amplifiers/MXF1200D.htm"]http://www.bkelec.com/Pro/Amplifiers/MXF1200D.htm[/url]
BK build OEMs for a lot of PA companies. I think there gear is pretty damn good.[/quote]
The BK stereo digital amp has two very small (but not silent) fans mounted on the sides of the case. I know because I've just bought one. Details to follow soon... -
Herco Flex 75 (the silver/grey one) for me. I've just ordered a box of 100 from the US as they seem to have become almost impossible to get in this country now and are hidden away on the Jim Dunlop website so well that only a determined search will reveal them.
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So how did you get on?
Was the experience anything like [url="http://www.questionablecontent.net/view.php?comic=909"]this?[/url] -
How about a [url="http://www.fender.com/products/search.php?partno=0191500"]Fender Stu Hamm Urge II[/url] - theoretically the best of both worlds...
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Any good luthier will talk you through all the options, with examples either from their own work or other makers basses.
I'm about to commission a Sei build and recently spent several hours with Martin Petersen matching up my ideas with what he knew would work for the sound, feel and look of the instrument I was after, and that's just for the woods and shape of the neck and body...
As well as Sei, ACG, Shuker and RIM are all well regarded around these forums and all will be able to guide you through the decissions you need to make to find the right bass for you. -
Ta. I'll try a pair of Dangleberry's next time I need some then...
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Are the Dangleberry ones exactly the same as the Schallers but with two nuts? I nearly got a set for the Pedulla Buzz I've just bought, but chickened out at the last moment and found some cheap(er) Schallers on eBay. From the photo it also seems that the screws are a bit shorter, one of the things I like about the Schallers is they don't mess about with fitting the button to the bass.
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Sanding off the finish seems to be the way to go. That way you don't need to worry about the old finish reacting unfavourably with whatever chemical stripper you decide to try. I've got a bass I'm stripping down at the moment and you just have to stick with it and be prepared to spend so time removing the finish even with power assistance. From what I can remember of Garry's thread on BW he used sand paper wrapped around dowling? to get in the cutaways? How was the sand paper attached? Any point in trying to make something to go on a drill? or is that asking for trouble?
I'll be posting my own refinish in a new thread once I'm sure I'm not going to mess it up too badly rather than hi-jacking others... -
You might need to get that Jazz Bass sorted out ... Looks like our ebay friend "Mitten In Deutschland" has been at it ;-)
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IMO it's no more or less a bass than the instrument in your avatar...
(and I know which of the two I'd rather have) -
When I put a Badass II on my Squire I filed the slots just as deep as was needed so the strings no longer popped out when playing. For me that's just a small notch in the saddle. However this bass is fretless and I play it finger-style only. If I was going to be using a pick then the slots would need to be considerably deeper.
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Surely the combination of letters and numbers: UL-610 constitutes an oxymoron?
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[quote name='misrule' post='18005' date='Jun 15 2007, 08:20 AM']Check these guys out -- when you're feeling flush or somebody else is paying
[url="http://www.eyelandenterprises.com/index.html"]Eyeland straps[/url]
Here's the usual 'I'm not linked to them' disclaimer, though I do have a Straposaurus they made.
Cheers
Mark[/quote]
What's with the skinny bits on all those straps? It makes even the Straposaurus look so Bert Weedon! -
Personally I think the two string bass looks pretty smart... in a prog-rock kind of way.
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Different coloured ball-ends? That'll be [url="http://www.daddario.com/Default.aspx"]D'Addarios[/url] of some description
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Depends on the weight of the bass...
For light and normal weight ones, a Levys black strap - leather on the outside, webbing on the inside.
For the heavier basses a Comfort Strapp (do they do these in any clour other than black?)
Straplocks fitted to all of them and each bass has it's own strap because although straplocks are fairly quick cange every bass has the strap anchor points in different places and needs a different length strap to bring it to the correct playing height - plus I play plectrum and fingerstyle at different heights as well... -
Will Boss FS5L (latching footswitches with status LEDs) not do what you want?
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There's actually quite a few bass makers using non-traditional materials for the whole instrument now.
How about:
[url="http://www.basslab.de"]BassLab[/url] with their hollow "Tunable Mixed Composite"
[url="http://www.gusguitars.com/"]Gus[/url] - carbon fibre exoskeleton over a cedar core
[url="http://www.miller-instruments.com/"]Miller[/url] - hollow carbon fibre
And of course plenty of makers past and present experimenting with aluminium for neck construction.
Mono pre-amp into stereo power amp
in Amps and Cabs
Posted
Up to now I've been running a bi-amp system, but as I no longer have any need for different effects on the highs and lows this setup has become redundant and I have suspected less efficient than just running both cabs full range. This weekend I made up a Y splitter lead and ran both channels of my power amp from the model output of my BassPod with the bi-amping off, and was much more impressed with the sound (and was able to turn the power amp down to get the same apparent volume) now that effects needs are far more simple.
So the question is: Is it OK to run the power amp this way or should I be using something a bit more sophisticated to split the mono out into both channels of the power amp? And if so what? Something active or passive with transformers?