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mr.sibs
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Everything posted by mr.sibs
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bump still available -
any offers?
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Bump
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I bought this earlier in the year, and I hope Steve doesn't mind me nicking his pictures and some of the bio! It has been a wonderful bass, used in the studio on lots of sessions. I am moving abroad and so it must go. [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I think it is an ash body, maple on maple neck with abalone dots. Weight is 4.7 kg[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]The bridge is a lump, all original and I cannot find one like this on any other [/font][/color][color=red][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]hohner[/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif] anywhere on the net. Tuners are Schaller with one Hipshot Dtuner. The electrics are all new and shielded, very high quality as they were taken from a top of the range Lakland and then re-wired. Mahogony thumb rest and Tort pickguard and truss rod cover.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]The pickups are Wizard Eighty-Fours, Wizard says;[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Darker, bassier and generally dirtier than the Sixty-Fours, these pickups are overwound to lower the overall tone. Loud and proud these pickups will drive any group.[/font][/color] [url="http://www.wizardpickups.co.uk/shop.asp?category=Bass"]http://www.wizardpic...p?category=Bass[/url] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Overall condition is good. A bit of paint chipped here and there but that just adds to the look and feel.[/font][/color] [font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][color=#282828]Looking for £260 posted with a beaten up old hard case. If you want to come and collect from West London, even better (make me an offer!)[/color][/font] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Pics here: [/font][/color][url="https://picasaweb.google.com/111767626816259019022"]https://picasaweb.go...626816259019022[/url]
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BUMP!
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bump
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any offers?
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I have enjoyed this bass for a only a few months, but she is stable, very playable, and has a great sonic range. In very good nick, with only a couple of light buckle scratches on the back. Will come with a Tribal Planet gig bag, not a great one but does the job. If you need to know more read away! [url="http://www.andertons.co.uk/bass-guitars/pid19059/cid560/squier-vintage-modified-jaguar-bass-in-black-with-rosewood-neck.asp?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=pricecomp&utm_campaign=GoogleShopping"]http://www.andertons.co.uk/bass-guitars/pi...=GoogleShopping[/url] Looking for [color=#FF0000][b]£180[/b][/color], collection from SW London [attachment=76383:IMAG0053.jpg] [attachment=76384:IMAG0055.jpg]
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[quote name='MB1' post='1096323' date='Jan 20 2011, 01:44 PM']MB1. Doh! currently after a Peltzer Bathroom Buddy! BUMP![/quote] Ive taken a tenner off so you can now buy both MB1
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ttt - interested in offers
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bump
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Thanks Jack, agreed it is very useful, and if you consider it against a high end compressor pedal, plus a DI/EQ pedal it doesn't come out any more costly. Just works well together as a unit in a great useable way I haven't heard about using it with a computer, I will try and gather some info - though of course you can DI it very successfully to record with which I have done
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Super little tool, great clarity and control over your tone with a very useable compressor. I have only used it as a DI, but apparently this can power small speakers too for practise rigs? This unit is with box and instructions, power supply and case. So as new apart from one minor scratch on the top of the unit. Read all about it below. £160 posted Thanks [url="http://www.gak.co.uk/en/phil-jones-bass-bass-buddy/30619"]http://www.gak.co.uk/en/phil-jones-bass-bass-buddy/30619[/url]
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Last possible price drop, back to the original price I bought it Bargain
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bump
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thanks for the interest so far, still available!
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Vintage MIJ (formerly J@pCr@p) Spotting
mr.sibs replied to Bassassin's topic in eBay - Weird and Wonderful
Thought I would cheekily put in my Antoria, available on the forum! Enjoy [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=116514&st=0#entry1072909"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...=0#entry1072909[/url] -
Price drop - £180
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to ze top
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Would be interested in trades on a fretted bass too
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I have had this bass a few months and it has been a wonderful dive into the world of fretless. I have used it as my main playing bass and it is the first fretless I have owned. It's been reasonably easy to pick up thanks to the fret markers and wonderful slim neck. So the reason I need to sell is that now my band will be getting more in the way of gigs, I need the comfort of a fretted again so I can concentrate less on my playing, more on performing/singing My intention was to add a dimarzio p pup to the bass which I have done. They are now matching and both in cream. I had some trouble with the electronics though and the circuit will need rewiring. It is a high quality circuit kit and there is volume from the p pickup, but the control for the J isn't correct and there is bit of grounding hum. I am sure anyone with any experience in this can get it sorted, both pickups are working fine and all the pots are new. I also bought a nice tort pickguard and an endpin jack socket which I will include that never got fitted. This bass has lots of character and is a real collectable. It is in great, highly playable condition for it's age and will be a real treat for someone. I hope Bassassin won't mind me quoting on the origin of the bass "It is an Antoria 2367B - these were identical to the equivalent Ibanez basses, as they were from the same Fujigen Gakki (not Matsumoku) model range, even down to the catalogue numbers. The finish is original, this type of spray pattern appears on many sunburst finish instruments, regardless of era & country of manufacture. Body construction on this is mahogany sandwich, possibly butcher block, with birch front & back veneers. This construction accounts for the black oversprays on the contours, to conceal the lamination. This is slightly later than your Ibby, Jack - by this point Fujigen neck construction had evolved somewhat, so there's no longer a truss cover & Gibson-type nut, there's heel-end adjustment & an authentic Fender style nut. The fretboard's still separate, but the neck's a single piece rather than the 3-piece quarter-sawn laminate on the older Fujigens." I also hope Delberthot won't mind me nicking his pictures! As below. I am looking for [color="#FF0000"]£150[/color] for this - considering the original price I paid and the cost of extra parts I think this is very fair. Especially for the amount of bass this is. There will also be a decent hardcase included and I can post for an extra £10. [attachment=67456:front.jpg] [attachment=67457:fullfront.jpg] [attachment=67458:head.jpg] [attachment=67459:neck.jpg] [attachment=67460:rearneck.jpg] Original sale thread can be viewed here [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=102363&hl=antoria"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...&hl=antoria[/url]
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[quote name='Subthumper' post='981915' date='Oct 8 2010, 07:11 PM']Hi, its difficult to see from the picture but are the wires that come from the pickup shielded or two seperate wires (usualy red and black)? if its two seperate wires make sure they are twisted together, this will prevent alot of hum and buzz. If they are shielded types then you have another problem so as amentioned check all your earthing connections.[/quote] They are both dimarzio pickups which have in turn - a red for hot (you can see these soldered above to the central pole of each vol pot) a green which is ground (soldered to the relevant back of pot) and a balck and white wire which are twisted and soldered together then wrapped with electrical tape. Is this correct? I am not sure about shielding further than this I tried the multimeter this morning and all components seem to be consistent with levels of resistance in relation to each other, i tried pots, bridge, jack. So I may now try the cooper shielding and just put her back together! Thanks
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[quote name='BOD2' post='981750' date='Oct 8 2010, 04:44 PM']That's not a silly question. But the answer depends on your multimeter. Some have a "continuity test" setting with a beeper that will make a noise when you touch the two probes together. If you don't have that then use the "resistance" setting - set to the lowest range. On this setting, when you touch the two probes together you should get a reading of zero. When checking your earth connections you should be looking for a reading of zero (or very nearly zero) between the earth connection of the jack and any earthed point, since what you are measuring is essentially just the resistance of a piece of wire between these two points.[/quote] Brilliant, there is a beeper, so I will try that and if not then I understand on the resistance, thanks
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[quote name='BOD2' post='981629' date='Oct 8 2010, 02:34 PM']Use your multi-meter to check the earth continuity. Attach one probe to the earth side of the jack socket and then touch the other probe at various parts of the controls that should be earthed. Check the pot shells all have good earthing. In particular check that the bridge itself has a good earth connection - one probe on the bridge and the other on the earth of the jack socket. If the pot shells aren't earthed then run a wire from a good earth point to one pot shell then daisy-chain a wire to each other pot shell. The foil screen should earth all the pots together but sometimes the foil breaks. If the bridge isn't well earthed then unscrew the bridge and inspect the wire that comes up through the body. Splay the ends of this wire and rub the underside of the bridge with a sandpaper to remove any oxide layer to give a good connection. A little vaseline (has to be vaseline as this is conductive) on the underside of the bridge where the wire touched can sometimes help. But always use the multimeter to check your connections are good.[/quote] Thanks, silly question, but what setting should I use on the multimeter? The Diode setting? Help very much appreciated
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So should I be earthing the foil from the pickguard to one of the pots if 18 would ususally be for shielding? Am I missing grounding the pots too each other? I thought the foil eliminated the need for this will try in some different rooms. does it make a difference if the strings/neck are off? Thanks all!!