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bertbass

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Posts posted by bertbass

  1. I remember those ads as well. We used to use 2, yes 2 of the Linear 30s, the same as RSC, for PA in 1968/9 along with two, 5x8 columns and in the same 2000 seat, well standing actually, venue that the Who played later that year with the first 1000w PA. Compared to the Who, our sound fell off the front of the stage onto the floor and disappeared. We thought it was good at the time though.

  2. In theory, yes. If it's for PA then no problem as you'll never get the PA more than 1/2 volume anyway. It's bass that can kill speakers, the lower the notes, the further the speakers move in and out. The best thing is to use your ears, if it sounds distorted, turn it down or reduce the bass or both.

  3. That's 300w RMS or 600w program. That means that the speaker is supposed to handle 300w of continuous power, such as a signal generator and 600w of music content where the volume of the music is not constant. I'd take both ratings with a pinch of salt myself.

  4. Selmer Treble & Bass 100 with a pair of Selmer Goliath 1x18s.
    Marshall Super Bass 100 with various 4x12s and 18s.
    Hiwatt 100 as above.
    Simms Watts 100. Also as above.
    Sound City 200w with 2 x Sound city 4x12s.
    Marshall Super Bass 100 with 4 Vox 18" Foundation cabs.

    Owned an Elgen 100w P.A. amp in the 70s, seriously brilliant amp. I could never afford the bass amp though, but I'd still like one. If it was as good as the P.A. it would be brilliant.

    My first proper bass rig in 1968 was a Wem ER40 through a Wem Starfinder cabinet. 15" Goodmans speaker.

    Strange to think that popular opinion is that we suffered bad bass sounds in the 60s / 70s. It's simply not true. The amps we used at that time are now lusted over for their great sound and in my opinion, there's not a lot of difference in sound between a 60s/70s 4x12 and current 4x10s and like now, there was good and bad and all makes sounded different. Power handling may have increased as years have passed but I still wouldn't use a single speaker for bass regardless of how good it's supposed to be.

    I appear to have gone off topic a bit here so I may as well carry on. I don't care what anyone says or tries to prove with science, a valve amp is louder that a solid state amp with the same rated output. In the 70s it was said that a valve amp was twice as loud as a transistor amp with the same rated output and having tried it, it is very true and I'm not talking about flat out, just normal playing volumes and if you need 10 times the power to make it twice as loud, then you would need a 1000w transistor amp just to equal the volume of a 100w valve amp. Try it and see, I have.

    Sorry about that, rant over.

  5. It sounds to me that you've got a lot to learn in a little time. My suggestion would be to spend a few hours, it will turn into weeks as it's very addictive, at [url="http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/"]http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/[/url] Everything that you wanted to know about P.A. and you can build the cabs yourself and have pro equipment at semi-pro prices. For speakers I use Otop 12s and T39s and couldn't be happier. You'll find details of these and the whole range of cabinets on the index page, but even if you're not inclined to build your own cabs, the amount of information on there is amazing.

  6. Monitors certainly help to sing in tune but I have my doubts as to whether this would be able to cut through the back line and drums and reach your ears before feedback took over. Probably good for acoustic bands though. Be interesting to see if others have tried one and what they thought..

  7. I've just received an e-mail from Stringbusters with a 10% off Rotosound strings offer. If you're impressed with your complimentary set or feel miffed that you missed out, then here's the link.

    http://www.stringbusters.com/Ko-Bespoke/productlist.asp?cat=1/BASS%20STRINGS/BASS%20STRINGS%20ROTOSOUND

  8. I had this problem with a new bass that I bought and whatever I tried, different amp, cabs, strings, graphic eqs, infact everything I could think of, it didn't make any difference. I went back to the old bass and it was all there again. I'm assuming that it was the light weight body of the new bass that was the problem. Can you try a different bass and see if it's still the same? Good luck.

  9. Tried some of these,
    http://www.hotroxuk.com/matched-valves-links-page-12ax7-6l6-909-0/preamp-valves-12ax7-ecc82jj-groove-tube-12ax7m-1885-0/tung-sol-re-issue-12ax7-set-of-5-mesa-boogie-triaxis.html
    in my Mywatt 200. I did notice a difference. Not quite as much middle as the JJ ECC83s that it came with and I like that.

    Try this for NOS or new valves.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMqJeIukXtE
    It's guitar but I could certainly hear the difference in tone and I guessed correctly.

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