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DanEly

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Posts posted by DanEly

  1. I'm changing up my pedalboard so I'm letting my beloved Darkglass Super Symmetry compressor and my Aguilar Tone Hammer D.I go.

    Both pedals have been well looked after, they have always lived in a flight case.

    Aguilar - Tone hammer D.I £155 + Postage
    Take total control of your tone. The innards are based on the OBP-3 preamp, with fully sweepable midrange frequencies, bass, and treble controls. This has been a 'always on' type of guy for me. It's great for adding the finishing touches before you hit front of house and allows you to tweak on the fly. Used but not abused. There's the odd mark here and there but it's fully functioning. I'm not sure if I still have the box but I will have a dig around. 

    Darklglass - Super Symmetry TRADED
    I'm sure you've all heard about these awesome boxes. The Super Symmetry offers all the transparency and precision of a modern compressor with the twist that its inherent envelope effect is reminiscent of old school compressors. If you need anymore info just ask! It's super clean with little to no signs of use. I have the box and potential all the booklets too.

    Trades: I will happily trade/ part ex for a Darkglass B7K Ultra, compressors and anything that causes sonic destruction. 
     

    BF6A1A66-1DB7-45A8-8611-B0D2645B70E1.JPG

    F1763029-76E8-435D-B0A4-51CE23147AA0.JPG

  2. My current rig is waaaay to big (Fender neo 610 + a super Bassman) for function work so, I'm looking for recommendations for a lightweight, relatively cheap and fairly sized combo. I was thinking of trying to pick up a second hand Markbass CMD102 combo but I have never really got on with MB. It would have to be able to hold it's own without PA support on the odd occasion.

    What are you guys using?

  3. [quote name='fretmeister' timestamp='1484216364' post='3213544']
    Filter then compressor.

    Otherwise the filter can't react properly as the compressor limits it too much. My board has the envelope filter and synth pedals first, then compression, then drive. Works well.
    [/quote]

    I'm doing exactly the same, I run my comp after synths and filters.

  4. I've fairly recently gone from a Ampeg SVT VR to a Aguilar TH500 and then to a Fender Super Bassman. I found the Tone Hammer to be lacking in weight and girth where as the Bassman "feels" better. It has greater depth and more weight behind what I'm playing.

    Cab wise I just switched from a Ampeg 610 to a Fender 610. I could literally toss the fender 610 through the doors of a venue.

  5. [quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1478514694' post='3169480']
    Here is a wiring diagram, taken from Cadfael's passive wiring book ([url="http://161589.homepagemodules.de/t29f2-Cadfaels-kleine-Schaltplan-Sammlung-fuer-passive-E-Baesse.html"]http://161589.homepa...e-E-Baesse.html[/url] - very good resource, PDF link is at the bottom of the page)



    If the wiring looks sound then check the switch - if some of the contacts aren't being pushed together enough by the physical action of the lever then it might cause cut out.

    Chandlers == replacement pickguard. Perhaps the old one cracked or warped?

    Hope all that helps.
    [/quote]

    Thanks so much for this!

    Little up date on the bass... It's a mess. All the wiring is wrong, pickups are in the wrong positions and it's looking like one of the pickups is actually dead. I'm half tempted to sell it and forget I even owned one.

  6. My trusty 77 Gibson G3's centre pickup isn't working in the "bridge" selection.


    I'm sure most of the people reading this will already know but the centre pickup is never off when selecting through the pickup options. For some unknown reason it switches off when I select the bridge pickup. The wiring looks okay, minus it also looking like a bit of a mine field. Maybe the toggle switch has packed in. Any help would be really appreciated!


    There's also a sticker on the underside of the scratch polite that reads 'Chandler made in the USA' with a serial number so I'm assuming It's already had a repair job? Whoever did that obviously didn't bother lining up the scratch plate as there's now two sets of holes. :huh: I'm tempted to send it off and get it completely overhauled and re-finished as the lacquer is becoming quite sticky.

  7. I'm not really a Jazz guy so I'm looking to shift this 'spotless' 61' flea bass. This is from the first run of production. The scratch plate still has the "dust" on it and I've oiled to fret board as they are known to come out of the factory rather dry. I've hardly played her to be honest.

    Willing to entertain trades/part ex for vintage precisions or American vintage reissues [u]only.[/u]

    Collection from Brighton due to having no case for it.

    [b]£780[/b]



    [size=3]Specs below.[/size]
    [size=3]Body Material: Alder
    Body Finish: Road Worn® Nitrocellulose Lacquer[/size]
    [size=3]Neck Material: Maple
    Neck Shape: "C" Shape
    Scale Length: 34" (864 mm)
    Fingerboard Radius: 7.25" (184.1 mm)
    Number of Frets: 20
    Fret Size: Vintage-Style
    String Nut: Synthetic Bone
    Nut Width: 1.5" (38.1 mm)
    Neck Plate: Special Flea Neckplate
    Neck Finish: Road Worn® Nitrocellulose Lacquer
    Fingerboard: Rosewood
    Position Inlays: Aged White Dot[/size]
    [size=3]Electronics
    Bridge Pickup: Pure Vintage ’64 Jazz Bass
    Middle Pickup: Pure Vintage ’64 Jazz Bass
    Controls: Stacked Concentric Controls Volume 1. (Neck Pickup), Tone 1. (Neck Pickup), Volume 2. (Bridge Pickup), Tone 2. (Bridge Pickup)[/size]

    [url="https://flic.kr/p/NadhGn"][/url]

    [url="https://flic.kr/p/NhP57z"][/url]

    [url="https://flic.kr/p/N7xwQy"][/url]

    [url="https://flic.kr/p/NeErGf"][/url]

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