HazBeen

26 minutes ago, Geek99 said:

I look at your angled neck transition there (which you wouldn’t see on a fender) and I’m reminded of the story about the designer of the spitfire putting the chord on the wing joint simply because it looked right rather than for any objective engineering reason at all 

You missed it.... It actually is function dictating form. The body (where the neck meets body) is angled to ensure better access to the 21st fret (line).

By making the neck cavity and neck heel follow that angle, ensures that both sides of the neck heel have the same length and can accommodate 3 bolts either side. Impossible if neck heel and cavity were “Fender straight”.

Inlay cavity done.... I am not unhappy with it at all. Was afraid of messing up, but whilst I will obviously need to fill with some sawdust I got it pretty close.

Wenge....

5 hours ago, Geek99 said:

Needs tort ....

Needs Wenge  

1 hour ago, Hellzero said:

Harry, may I ask you why you don't use your router for the deep cavities like the neck pocket or, here, the control ... cavity ?

I've always used a router for this, in multiple passes, of course. To me, it's easier and faster than drilling holes first.

You certainly have a very good reason for this way of working, but each time I'm watching your great work, I'm wondering why...

And as ♌ too, like me, don't take it the wrong way. 😉

I have found that I have significantly fewer router mishaps if I drill out most of the wood first and then just route the edges and last few mm depth. It is as simple as that. I know that many just us a router, but this works for me and thus have had no reason to change the approach.

Little progress to report....

I think the cavity cover will be Wenge, but I had a little 3 ply left so made a quick plastic cover too.

14 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said:

That's going to be twangy.  You'll need extra tough callouses if you routinely play above the pup.

Interesting.

Not really mate. As it is still more forward than the single Bart humbucker I have in the other fretless I built or the bridge pickup on a jazz and no issues there.
 

I went with the 5 mm back to get a bit more crisp attack, but the placement will ensure enough warm roundness too.

More decisions made, going with the 1 MM pickup, 5mm further towards bridge compared to the classic Stringray position.

Cavity for pickup all done, control cavity getting there but needs further work.

On 06/10/2020 at 18:27, Bassdude BE said:

Had the fretted 4 & 5 string en fretless 6 string version of this,  excellent basses all of them and they probably had the best playability of all the >200 basses I´ve owned so far, Keith Roscoe knows how to build a good bass for sure!  

Oh no, a sufferer of SBAS (ake Serial Bass Acquisition Syndrome)..... a dangerous disease.

On 06/10/2020 at 17:30, skb558 said:

two cash sponges

That made me smile .... know the feeling.

Hi all,

Having been bitting by the building bug again I am already dreading finishing my current fretless 5 build (ETA end of next week). After that I only have some modifications to do on my Streamer and Bogart and really do not need anything else myself.

Oh no......!

So, does anybody need something built? Small or large? A bass, just a body, neck, finger ramp, custom pick guard, anything goes really. 

I am a hobby builder without any commercial interest, I just like building and/or modding basses and I have invested in a decent workshop to scratch the itch.

So in case you want to give it a go......

I will charge materials and parts at documented cost (upfront) and a pre-agreed fixed fee (after completion) dependent on what I am building just to cover workshop cost, tools, food and drink and such whilst I am building for you.

PM me if you want to give it a go.

1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Great job.  Those ferrules look fine to me.  Don't forget that I am lining up only 4 in much the same space. My dimensional errors will be hidden to the eye - and that's something you can't do when they are pretty much touching each other.

Appreciate the comment.

The great thing about this phase of a build is that you can see progress very clearly.

- Neck now flush with body

- Neck thread insert installed

- Ferrules for neck bolts installed

- Neck bolted on to test it

Weight, with cavity for battery, pickups and controls still to be done, a tad above 3800 grams.

I think since I am installing a few bits as well, weight will end up at 3850. Not bad.

32 minutes ago, Geek99 said:

 

I’d leave it 

 

Leaning that way too!

Got it out, crisis averted 😁

Neck is in! Now I have the pocket depth right, I may sand the bit sticking out (about 1.5mm) flush with the body. But to be frank it doesn’t bother me, so may just leave as it for added strength.

Also fiddled with the bridge a little, to better follow the taper. Worked well.

Oh and stripped a screw......not quite sure how to get it out, but I will think of something.

As said, decent not perfect....

2 hours ago, Jabba_the_gut said:

Finally took this to pieces to finish the last couple of bits off and ow it is complete!! Here's a few pictures of the finished bass:

It looks fantastic, so neat and tidy in every aspect. Wow!

1 hour ago, SpondonBassed said:

@Andyjr1515 has just been writing about that somewhere.  He approaches from either side of the workpiece to get the through holes right for alignment of the ferrules.

I think he simply has more skill, and hopefully for him a better pillar drill too  

3 hours ago, SpondonBassed said:

Good work.

It illustrates how individual bridges need careful laying out.  In particular, the taper from the nut to the bridge must be quite difficult to measure and cater for.  I'm bearing that in mind for when I use those myself.

Thanks.
 

Whilst the Hipshot Triple Lock system is clearly a very stable solution, that accommodates string through body (not that I’d want that perse) it is a dog to install.

You need to align just right to get the taper nut to bridge right. But unlike other individual saddle bridges, with these because there is a bolt through the body, you need to drill perfectly straight as well.
 

Something my cheap donkey pillar drill almost cannot achieve....... hate it with a vengeance.

End result is pretty much perfect on the top, on the back/flip side I have to admit the alignment is pretty decent, but not perfect. I will snap a pic to illustrate next time I am in my workshop.

All in all I am happy, considering my overall building experience, tools and general “make it up as you go” approach to building. 

3 hours ago, TheGreek said:

Don't want to make work for you but....

Have you thought about Wenge pick up covers?

I am not big on wooden pickup covers to be honest. Don’t do it for me.

7 hours ago, spacecowboy said:

What happened to the Schaller? ☺️

Keeping it for the next one.

The bridge is in...... my word I don’t think I have ever had such a complex bridge install. It literally took me 3 hours with the routing, aligning, drilling, more drilling and even more drilling. But it did end up fine thankfully.

Decision time.... I am going for the individual saddle bridge. First one fitted, spot on, so now to get the rest right as well.

Need to do some calculations to ensure I have the neck pocket exactly right, but to first 10mm is a tight enough fit I’d say.

And neck is on straight too

.... phew...

Will finish next time.