Andyjr1515

[quote name='FuNkShUi' timestamp='1478075333' post='3166472'] Glad it can be of use to someone. I did the sides yesterday. That was far more awkward!! Firstly, i had to find a way to stand the body on end. So i used my tool bench as a kind of clamp. You can see what i mean in the picture below. Ideal? No. But it did a good job of it actually. It was tricky because the scraping tool i had on the end of the heat gun was a little too big to fit in the upper and lower horn section of the body easily. So it took a fair bit of moving around in the "vice". A few swears were made when i picked the body up and it was still hotter than the surface of the sun. But i got there in the end. A note to anyone who hasn't done this before but is thinking of it..... wear eye protection. When you're scraping the poly off, it flakes off and then flicks up into the air. A piece that goes into your eye would be bad enough on its own, but it is hot too. Feels like when you're frying bacon and the fat spits off and burns you. Imagine some of that in your peepers! I had a piece hit me on top of my cheek. That was enough of a warning for me, so i got mine out. Like i said, this bit was far trickier than the front and back, and as such i did leave the heat gun in the same place for too long in parts, but after sanding i don't see it being an issue. If i do it again, I'll make sure to go steadily about it. Do not rush. And potentially buy a smaller tool for the heat gun. Although the problem could have been circumvented by using a separate scraper. Possibly could have been more awkward because of the tighter angles in a shortscale body too. It's all a learning experience though I've ordered my metal flake, and some primer spray paint and clear coat lacquer. Once they arrive i will carry out a test on a piece of wood to see if i like the finish. Until then though, the sanding. Hopefully get a little bit done before band practice tonight. [/quote] Ah....just spotted - your scraper is part of your heat gun? That will be quite tricky as you say to get the heat right and the scraping right. I use a standard heat gun and decent quality (sharp but still cheap) hand scraper. Makes getting the balance between heat and mechanics just right

[quote name='Len_derby' timestamp='1478020870' post='3166103'] Brilliant, as always Andy. I'm looking forward to seeing and hearing this beauty in action. Any gigs coming up? Living just the other side of the hill from Andy I can reliably inform the rest of you that his creations look even better in real life. [/quote] Thanks, Neil Pete and I have a local gig on Mon 28th. Full band have one 10th Dec. Yes I know....part timers I reckon a beer beckons soon:)

[quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1477991175' post='3165700'] Great! :-D I was getting withdrawal symptoms, you left it such a long time between builds [/quote] [quote name='Oopsdabassist' timestamp='1478001359' post='3165828'] Do I detect a note of....cheekiness here?? [/quote] Well, it was a whole 6 hours, so fair do's to allighatt0r

[quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1477991993' post='3165712'] Very snazzy [/quote] It's a nice bass to start with, Bryan. I'd always admired the Musicman range from afar but they're even nicer in the flesh . Some very nice constructional touches too.

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1477959885' post='3165611'] Did you make the nice wooden storage unit (cupboards, shelves seen in the background where the new bass is on the stand) as well Andy? [/quote] No - we got a joiner in for that. There's straight lines and square joint involved in that. As MrsAndyjr1515 (the worlds first human spirit level) would confirm, I'm not good at straight lines and square joints

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1477954725' post='3165577'] Are the black lines in the body finish or actual 'cuts' through the body ? [/quote] I'm pretty sure I t's just in the finish. It's his initials, CS. The one I'm going to make for Nic is going to be plain cream

OK - the thread is titled as it is because, to me, this really is "something quite different". It's another 'in the style of'...but this time, what style! In the style of Chris Squire's (Yes) stunning Mouradian bass... Early stages - just sorting out the final shape and spec with Nic (gelfin) but this is now the next full build on the table...

So, as the EB-3 ish thread came to an end: "...it gets put in its case to go to it's new home It's like when the kids leave home...... .... WHAT ARE WE GOING TO DO WITH ALL THE SPACE??? " ...as one door closes... ...another one opens Hello, gelfin and - fittingly on halloween's evening - welcome to my lair

[quote name='ezbass' timestamp='1477932059' post='3165356'] Bring on the next one [/quote] Ah...you may have hit the nail on the head....

Round wounds on: One last photo before..... ...it gets put in its case to go to it's new home It's like when the kids leave home...... .... WHAT ARE WE GOING TO DO WITH ALL THE SPACE???

Sometimes I add details on these build threads to remind myself of things. Such as, "I must remember to tell Paul_S where his wires went from the battery box!": I shielded the P-pickup chamber and scratchplate area: ...and then installed the pickups: The passive pots, etc, have arrived so just got to wire it all up and hope it sounds OK

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1477836393' post='3164728'] I reckon they'd appreciate this on the MM forum... :-p [/quote] I'll show my ignorance here .... I didn't know there WAS a MM forum!

I think you've done well for a first attempt with a heat gun. 'Finding the Goldilocks speed' is a very apt phrase . Small scorches are usually sand able even with plain wood finishes so with glitter it will be no problem. Go carefully with the sides, though. Much easier to scorch and/or dig in, particularly round the cutaways and at the corners. Patience is definitely a virtue for this bit

Great stuff . Look forward to seeing the results. My wife has reminded me that it is a method of spraying pottery glaze onto pots that can be done the hand blowing method. I'll try to dig out the details in case the shaker approach isn't any good.

As said earlier, I know nothing about spraying glitter....other than having two semi-arty daughters who used to use glitter for tattoos and art projects. There might be some art-based YouTube clips like this https://youtu.be/1ghJ3jlYdnY that have very low cost ways of applicating glitter evenly. By the way, I can lend you/give you a cheapo and basically a disposable airbrush if you want to rig it up to an air-can. I also have somewhere in my distant memory an artists trick of rigging a straw over a jam jar for a mouth blown airbrush??

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1477884845' post='3165030'] That is a very pretty bass Andy. Well done! [/quote] Thanks, Stuart

Your comments and encouragement mean a lot, folks Very much appreciated - thanks

[quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1477863899' post='3164960'] Well, I was joking...but then again [/quote] So was I....but then again

Thanks folks - very much appreciated [quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1477851475' post='3164841'] Nicest EB3 I have ever seen - stunning build! Now, how about a Wal lookalike for me [/quote] Well, White Cloud...you know your wish is a mere king's ransom away

[quote name='EliasMooseblaster' timestamp='1477827938' post='3164631'] On that note, can I ask a stupid question? Are these extenders for solving string tensions issues, or intonation/scale length? I can see how it would help to add extra length to the string's total run, but then I always thought the fine-tuning of the scale length was determined by the position of the bridge saddle. (And just to add to everyone else's comments: I've been following this thread in earnest anticipation of any photo updates - this truly is a thing of beauty!) [/quote] It's mainly to get a bit more distance between the ball end and the saddle. As designed, the ball end clasps are so close to the saddles that the silk and windings actually go over some of the saddle slots with most makes of strings and intonation set-ups! The other thing many original EB3 owners did was drill to go for a thru-body/ferrule approach (bit like a telecaster 6 string) to achieve the same end. The second advantage 6feet7's extender bar gives me is that, when I had to slot the saddles so low to get a decent action (ref my c**k up on neck angle calcs), the bar brings the back of the strings to a steeper angle and therefore achieve an OK break angle

Thanks, folks [quote name='ezbass' timestamp='1477824949' post='3164604'] Spectacular! Whilst the three point bridge was a pain in the proverbial and isn't the most user friendly piece of hardware, it just looks so right; well worth the perseverance. Another masterpiece by the maestro. [/quote] Would've been even more of a pain in the proverbial without 6feet7's kind gift of that very nicely made extender bar!

FINISHED!!!!! Well - other than fitting the roundwounds that should be arriving tomorrow.... Forgive the self indulgence :

I'm putting a Stingray 5 down to passive and adding an Aquilar P to it for Paul S at the moment (thread in Build Diaries). Sometime next week I should have wired it up if you want a view of how it sounds. As it happens, I also have a VM Squier Jag (my avatar). They are super basses for trying mods. Fantastic value for money

Now for the strip down. Neck off - making note of the shim: I'm afraid all these beautiful electrics are coming out. Paul's preference with the addition of the P pickup is to go all passive: The pots will need to be changed anyway so, for the cost of a new switch and jack, we will make this basically fully reversible, ie keeping the original scratch plate and also removing the electrics as a complete unit: Paul also has asked for me to take as much weight out as possible in the process. As such, we agreed that I would go medium 'swimming pool' under the plate. To avoid the possibility of router 'incidents', I opted for a rough out with forstner and chisel for starters. Here it is in progress: Although in the area outside where the pickups will fit I could go deeper, I have opted not to because this body is VERY light wood (presumably swamp ash) and a deeper rout will only further reduce the weight a negligible amount while perhaps adding other unwanted issues. This size of rout has offset the weight of the pickup to a reasonable extent, but not reduced the overall weight of the bass much, if at all. While it's off, it's worth a look at the Music Man bridge pickup in all its glory : Lovely, isn't it

Any further progress on this, Ian? Pics! Pics! Pics! Pics!