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nottswarwick

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Posts posted by nottswarwick

  1. actually just looking at the RAdial Bassbone, or one of their true bypass switched - a bighsot i/o might be the thing.

    Thing is, we hire is proper pro spec PA for the big shows, and I need it to be right, and the best sound possible.

  2. Hi

    Just back from practice, and a bit confused. Set up was LMII into cabs, fine. Bu it does not have a mute switch, and I am not overly keen on running the signal through a tuner pedal before the amp - I dont use a pedal board, and would rather just pkug straight into the amp for simplicity.

    So, what GOOD heads have the tuning mute facility and a good pro DI output, so i can rack the head up with the rack tuner in the tuner out, using the mute facility to tune and leaving a clear signal path.

    Sorry it is late, and I may not be making too much sense.

    Chris

  3. Hi

    Right, current rig is:

    Littlemark II
    Markbass Traveler 2*10, and/or
    Markbass Std 210 (the bigger one).

    Main bass - G&L USA L2500. I am now back in love with this bass, and it can do a great P-Bass sound in passive mode, whcih is good, as the reason for my posting is as follows:

    Above rig is great for my Function band - deep, clean, clear, versatile. However, I am starting to do some work with a powerful Indie Pop/Rock outfit, and I need the SVT style sound, using the passive P-bass mode on my G&L.

    The Littlemark cannot really do the "edge of tube distortion" thing, so I am wondering what to do.

    Options seem to be:

    1. New amp head for the new band - SVT / SVT Pro. But not keen on this - heavy!
    2. Valve preamp driving the littlemark power section via effects return.
    3. Pedal type thiny - BDDI / EBS VAlvedrive...what else is there.

    So, what would you do, ar what DO you do?

    Anything you could recommend?

    Cheers

    Chris

  4. Hi all,

    OK, here is the story:

    I now exclusively play five string basses, so I have no use for a USA four string Jazz bass, black, black scratchplate, rosewood neck, original case and tools, all in excellent nick. £450 will secure this bass.

    Also, I am most at home playing a Stingray 5, and thus find that my GandL2500 is not getting the use it shouild. These are great basses, like a Stingray "plus", with massive tonal variety. However, the Stingray is more "me". So, I will let this go for £725 ono. USA model, black with maple neck, near mint, original hard case in decent nick.

    Will sort pics out later on. Cash preferably, but would trade a SR5 HH or HS.

    Nottingham

    Chris

  5. did you get the pic of my Gand L Russ.

    If I had £800 this would be mine now. So, if anyone wants my GandL 2500, let me know. I would not think about selling it, but I wanted a HH SR5 all along, and Russ has typically just decided to shift his now - not good timing, but hey..

  6. Cool, I have a Traveler 102p.

    It is the way to go if portability on public transport is the key - although for a long walk I would get one of those lightweight sack truck trolley things.

    I use mine with a LMII head, and it is fine. It will not go as deep as my other cab (the standard 102HF, the one with the front ports), but that is a lot bigger and heavier. The trav alone is fine for most applications,, but will not emit the deep deep sub style rumble - it is just too small. However, as a compromise it is really really good. I got mine from Mike at the Bass Merchant, and he prefers the Aguilar 112 cabs, but they are heavier, and alledgedly a bit mid scooped....

    The trav is very punchy, and you sometimes need to tame the midrange a bit, but a pull back on the low mid EQ on the LMII sorts things out nicely. It WILL fart a bit if you hammer the cab, but you will be playing very loud when this happens.

    It is all about compromise IMHO, and the cab does it for me. I am always PA supported, so it acts as my onstage monitor, but it WILL project over larger club style rooms etc. As an aside, it sounds immense when paired with my other larger 2*10.

    I am actually thinking about getting the 121H combo for ultimate ease of setup - anyone got any comparisions between the 12" and 2*10 configs?

    Cheers

    Chris

  7. actually, just pulled the trigger on [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=230164752409&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=013"]this one[/url]

    I have obviously paid more than the above deals, but hey, seems like a fair buy to me.

    yay :-)

  8. I started at age 12 with classical guitar and claasical percussion lessons at school. Did all teh grades up to 8 in both.

    But obviously electric guitar and the drums were alot cooler, so I played both for years. I suppose my 1st proper semi pro jobs were all as a drummer, and then guitarist in a function band for a few years.

    Stil play guitar in a Latin guitar duo.

    Had a bass around for years, but about 4 years ago finally did it properly. It is a combination of all my expreience as guitarist and drummer, and is the one I prefer by far.

    With regard to the question of the transition between the two, teh hardest thing I found wasbeing disciplined and not too busy. The bassist needs to be solid and tidy, and cannot generally get away with widdling around, as we all know. That, and the other thing was to have the right good gear. I had/have decent guitar gear, but thebass is harder to get to sound "right" in all venues, as low frequencies are more unpredictable. At least with good industry standard gear, you know you have the tools to do the best job possible. which is why my SR5 is always with me.

    C

  9. my SR5 is a bit quiter than my old SR4. But not by much, and it punches like a mule (or should that be kicks). These SR5's are awesome "band context" basses. They will rumble wiht a bit of bass added, or funk it up with the selector in brodge position and everything flat. I find that if the room is boomy, you can really tighten the bottom end up with the EQ, and still cut through in a way that precious few basses do.

    Yes, I am a fan. Min ewill be with me always.

    :-)

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