Matt P

I fitted these   seemed a good price for NOS valves, they sounded pretty good, lower gain than the originals to my ears, but the whole amp is just too high gain for me and i've gone back to the Markbass F1 i was using originally.

Matt

changing the valves in a terror bass is fairly easy, the one thing to look out for is the screws that hold the top cage section on are very cheap and prone to the heads getting chewed up. I swapped mine out for some black cap head bolts which are much more robust, I can't remember exactly what size but could check when i get home.

there is a thread on here somewhere that goes through the whole process of swapping the valves , if i get a chance to find it i'll add a link. but once the top cover is off it's take the valve covers off (bayonet fitting) and then pull the valves out carefully, then make sure the new valve is properly aligned and it should just push in, covers on and off you go.

I put some lower gain valves in mine but never really gelled with it, at some point i'll put it up for sale.

Matt

Yes but I didn't go looking for it, I've got a 81 Aria Cardinal, it popped up locally for sale at a very low price as it had been defretted, used it fret less for a bit then had it refretted with stainless fret wire. It comes out occasionally, as a bonus it came with the original hard case and the guarantee papers. 

My first guitar and my first bass were both aria as well so I have a bit of a soft spot for Aria. 

Matt 

17 hours ago, George52 said:

Hi 

Have a micro dark terror. I want to use the amp and speaker as normal and DI out to an input on my audient interface just to record a dry signal to reamp with amp and cab sims.. 

T h e micro dark is OK on its own via DI  out, the Audient is OK on its own via  Di out.. As soon as I connect BOTH I get a swirling buzzing noise. Ground lift doesn't help. 

I tried two different DI boxes different cables etc. The only thing that stops the noise is to connect a different amp head... 

I've referred this to Orange... UK 

Any thoughts?? 

how do you have this connected? the dark terror doesn't have a Di output so are you using the effects send?

to get a true dry signal the Di needs to be before the amp, so guitar into Di, then the link on the Di out to the amp and the XLR output on the Di to your interface. 

Matt

2 hours ago, PaulThePlug said:

Yep #6 32 UNC... 3.5" Hard Drive Screws are short and CSK.

Base plates are thin but a little twist with a csk bit gets the screws flush enough to get em under the velcro height.

I used some of these I think, very thin flat head, no idea where they came from but they are definitely computer ones. 

On 02/03/2024 at 20:51, PaulThePlug said:

Velcro...

Oh... anyone know the size of a Dunlop Cry Baby Wah rubber foot screw?

When ya take the rubber foot of for using velcro, the screw is too long.

I'll have to double check when i get home but i think they are the same thread as computer case screws, I removed the feet from our guitarist's cry baby and i'm fairly sure that's what i used in their place as i have quite a stash of them. I don't have the pedal but i do have the original feet and screws safely stored away.

Matt

EDIT - for the OP I use the Velcro heavy duty (the proper branded stuff) I buy it in big packs from screwfix.

I made do with a bit of wood and a folded towel for ages then I got one of these, does the job perfectly, not worth an order on it's own but as part of a bigger order (or if a friend is putting in an order) than it's worth it.

Matt

the rooms we use have Ampeg STV-3 Pro's in every room, with matching Ampeg cabs, 4x10, 6x10 and 8x10 depending on the room.

personally i've never quite got on with the sound so i take my Barefaced 1x12 and markbass head with me anyway

I've come across some pretty shocking amps in other local rooms though, as well as weird rules, when i was playing guitar in another band i was using an orange tiny terror head and would usually just plug into whichever cab was handy, at one place they had a rule that you weren't allowed to plug your amp into the house cabs so i had to use a Marshall 100w head rather than my little 15w one.

i'm not sure if they buy from the public but i've bought NOS valves from Langrex, they keep a huge stock of NOS valves so might be interested in these.

LINK

I guess it might be worth an email to see if they are interested.

Matt

it seems that someone wanted that IGB-77, I was sent an offer of 480 as i was watching it but I ignored it as it's about 100 above my limit, it's now shown as sold so someone has probably paid over the odds for it.

Matt

Thanks for the info @Rayman not sure if it's good or bad news, 18mm is my preferred spacing, was kinda hoping it wouldn't be 18 so I could cross it from my list! Hopefully one will pop up at a sensible price.

As I suspected the IGB-77 has been relisted, just Buy it now at £500, too expensive imo. 

LINK

Matt

from the description it sounds like a parent selling the bass they bought for their son 10 years ago,

the IGB-77 wasn;t made in big numbers so for a non-bassist to try and value would be difficult as there aren't any sold ones to use as a guide, their shop seems to be mainly vintage clothes so this is not anything they have experience with.

I will agree that a buy it now price of 800 for an instrument that you paid 600 for 10 years ago is fairly daft.

I'm hoping they re-list with a more sensible reserve, I have a hankering for something with jazz pickups and i do like the IGB basses.

@Rayman what is the string spacing on the IGB68/5? I play mainly 5ers but struggle with narrow string spacing at the bridge.

It finished at 337, I was outbid at 330 and it hasn't met the reserve, I'll leave it on my watch list in case it's relisted.

Matt

1 hour ago, Rayman said:

Yeah I saw that.....

 

Bit steep I think? but it's a nice thing. I don't know a lot about that model though.

 

I won't bid against you 😉, I can't afford anything expensive this month, and I'm already eyeing something else I can't afford. 

I my head it's maybe a 3-400 quid bass? The IGB basses don't generally go for big money but this one is the highest spec one I've ever seen, the Seymour Duncan pickups and the figured top are only seen on this one, I don't know if I will bid, I have a feeling the seller doesn't really know what it's worth and has set the reserve way too high. 

Matt

i've fancied a 68 since i saw them reviewed in Guitar magazine,

There is a IGB-77n on ebay at the moment, from the research i've done it looks like only 4 came into the country, I don't need it but i'm watching it and might bid at the last minute, not sure it will sell as the reserve isn't met yet and judging by the buy it now price i'm not sure it will. supposedly these had an rrp of £1000 in 2009ish

IGB on eBay

I have a saved search on ebay for Aria Basses under a certain price, I really fancy another one, maybe a fretless if they ever made one?

Matt

i think this is most likely the IGB-30, the std is a p-j model from all the ones i've seen.

the IGB basses are actually pretty good in my opinion, I've owned a couple and played a couple more, they're not flashy or high end but the quality is there and i've been impressed with ay i've played, my first bass was an IGB and i now have one of the short scale IGB-36's which I really like and gets regular use.

the Korean and chinese Arias seem to get overlooked which is a shame as they are well made and decently priced, I think that they just don't have the widespread distribution that other makers like Yamaha and ibanez have even though the Aria's at similar prices are similar quality.

this is of course only my opinion after playing a fair few post-Japan Aria instruments, I own 3 of the Korean made Instruments as well as a 1981 Japanese Aria Cardinal bass. there used to be a shop in Newcastle that was an aria stockist and was the source of my first bass as well as my Aria Classical guitar.

Matt

this might not be a wood screw at all, if it's a fine thread it might be threading into a metal insert / tee nut, this is common for strap handles.

a pic of the screw will show this, if it has a flat end rather than a point then it would suggest that it's a machine screw for an insert. 

the nut might not be in place but as i'ts likely to be steel it will be stuck to the speaker magnet.

I've had a fair few cabs apart and i've never come across a strap handle that wasn't held on with machine screws and Tee nuts.

Matt

This is what I've managed to squeeze into one of these cases. 

Matt

I have the clarke version of the amazon one that @SamIAm has, I managed to ruin the bearings in the wheels but that was down to the thick mud i dragged it through at a festival (which i didn;t clean out properly afterwards)  the main frame and axles are fine, I bought some replacement wheels off eBay and it's as good as new.

in normal use i've not had any issues with mine at all.

Matt

i have 2 of these (one mooer branded and one tomsline branded) 

I've modded the Mooer branded one by removing the foam and fitting velcro instead, managed to squeeze my church pedalboard down to a frankly ridiculous size, I'll grab a photo tonight if anyone's interested, mine came with a nice 2A power supply as well, i've modified the daisy chain cable and hidden all the power wiring under the board, at some point i'll mod the other case too but i don't a have a use for it yet.

Matt

might be worth talking to @walshy he's not in Blyth but isn't that far away (certainly easy enough to get a cab to Hexham from Blyth) I know he is mainly shipping Basses but i'm guessing he has a good courier service available and may be able to help or at least advise.

It  might be worth giving some details of the cab that needs moving, size and weight might be a factor for some

bought a set of machine heads from Chienmortbb, they were packed and shipped in no time at all and arrived quickly and safely.

Trade with confidence.

matt

definitely interested in these, will have to quickly measure my project bass neck when i get home to confirm.

just to confirm though, these are a 3 over 2 set? ( 3on the bass side, 2 on the treble for a right handed bass)

Matt

I've had decent results with Servisol Super 10, which is the same as the Kontact one linked at the top of this thread, they are one and the same thing, servisol has been rebranded as Kontact

some music shops will have the servisol branded stuff, i picked up a couple of cans a month or so ago for 6 quid a can in a music shop in Carlisle.

my rule is that if a quirc squirt of servisol doesn't work then the pot is replaced with a new good quality one (usually CTS)

Matt

Another option might be the Markbass F1/F500, just over your weight limit at 2.1kg but they are clean sounding and pretty cheap secondhand, I've never noticed the fan on my F1 (might plug it in when i get home and see if i can get a Db reading) should be a good base for running effects and preamps into.

there is also the markbass Nano amps which are even smaller and lighter but might not be so plentiful on the used market.

Matt