Ou7shined

Without wanting to hijack too much, got any tidbits on 2369B's Jon?

The neck on my awesome '73 Ibby 2369B is a few mil thinner at the heel than your standard Fender size.
HTH

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1387486545' post='2312675']
I think if I tried to level a fret it would be like Father Ted trying to knock a dent out of a car..
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And you'll need a notched straight edge so you are sure the neck is perfectly straight before you start levelling.
This is the one I made for myself. I couldn't conceive of doing the job without it.

You need very straight beam to level the frets... and personally I wouldn't level without a crown.

Jay Turser '51/'54-a-like.
Bought a few years ago off here. Obvious neck problems when it arrived so it ended up in a corner gathering dust. A year or so later I decided to have a crack at getting it going again. Some neck and fret work later she's utterly very playable. The original pup was a bit polite so I swapped it out for a Fender job... which subsequently fell apart under the pressure of my thumb so I rewound and repaired it and now it sounds amazing. It's a fantastic bass for noodling on and costs a veritable fraction of my other basses... and light. I never get over the surprise when I pick it up, it feels like it's made from paper.

[quote name='Aliskull' timestamp='1387134948' post='2308556']
....

Pictures to come shortly, but to give you the idea here is one of someone else's which I have nicked from Google
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Cheers.
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That someone would be our very own [url="http://basschat.co.uk/user/16-neepheid/"]Neepheid[/url]. Lovely chap and resident Gibby expert.

Basically .... yes.

There is nothing else that sounds and feels as 'ray-ish as a SUB.

Once you get into series/parallel wiring and magnet design then the nuances come out but it is very definitely a great direction to go on your way up to a 'ray.

Of course the problem in doing this is that you end up drilling and screwing into end-grain - which is less than desirable if you are looking for a solid fix. If you are set on this method, try and get hard wood dowels if you can... or create your own.

Or fit a metal insert kit.

Cheers for the review

The pic of the back of the headstock has made my day


Btw. I think he's speaking in Welch. We need a translator.

This ^

4mm is about as close as you want to get really. Any closer and the magnets start to take a physical hold of the strings and will dampen them.

If you bough a set and didn't get on with them you could always whip them off again and sell them on here for a few quid less. You will be wiser for the experience and one step close to finding out which strings are best for you.

You could always put up an ad for a used set in the wanted section on here too.

I have never taken a bass to a bash where I've not wanted people to have an oportunity to try it out. That's kinda the whole point.

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1386182949' post='2296886']
If you're after a T-Bird, I'd check out the Epi Classic Pro IV - neck through and Gibson pickups, almost as good as the Gibson but far cheaper!
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I have one in natural. Love it. No neck dive whatsoever..... as I tend to hold the neck as I play.

If you are looking at Ric, I have it from a very reliable source that '72 or older 4001's are the cream of the crop. Mine is a '72 and I have to admit it rewrote the book for me on what I had previously experienced Ric-wise (I liked the sound but hated the feel). Mine is lovely to play.

[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1386109251' post='2296032'].... Ou7Shined, what do you mean by 'compliant'? I like strings that feel a bit stretchy or rubbery, and don't like strings that are too stiff, or feel a bit like 'bars' not strings. 'Compliant' might be a good thing for me, depening on what you mean.
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Yep TI's are quite rubbery (or floppy). But there's rubbery and there's rubbery. If you prefer extra compliance (rubberyness) then they may well be for you but if you've never tried them before then I doubt you'll have experienced much quite like them. I have TI's on 2 of my basses and they do sound great but for me their compliance makes them best for lazy, plodding bass lines.

Oh my god yes!

There's a thing. I do like the sound of TI flats but they feel too compliant.

For me it starts with nickle. Anything else feels harsh.
Nanowebs are my string of choice these days and now that I've gotten over the slightly frictionless feel of them, again most everything else feels spiky in comparison. Oddly enough there is little difference in the feel of the nickel and the steel nanowebs.

I use a 5 string set on a 4 string low tuned bass. To start with they felt too harsh and tended too burn my fInger tips if I slid quickly from one position to another. Been using them for about a year now and I got used to them eventually. To me they feel spiky like steel strings do (I'm a nickel guy). They sound pretty good, quite zingy. They are not perfect but they look cool and do make a talking point.

The guy from Sungrazer used to play his Ric in drop C

Nice

Looking at his feedback might suggest he/she's sometimes economical with the truth about techy stuff. Also how does someone who finds it too advanced know it's a fantastic instrument? Caveat emptor.

My Nanowebs start to "fray" (not sure I've ever seen them flake or chip) after about a 9 months to a year of VERY heavy finger playing.

Oddly enough DR's start to go at the frets after just a few plays for me.

Love 'em. They are my string of choice now. Although there was a run in period while I got used to the frictionless feel and the wee overshoots when jumping many frets at once. Prefer the nickel over the steel but there's not much in it.