Mr. Foxen

Don't bother with dryogenic valves, they are snake oil. Just get some nice preamp valves. When you say 'Gold Lion' I guess you mean the reissue, Joe Garcia has tried some and they broke. Not sure if it was the valves or the amp though. Anyway, not heard that they are a patch on the originals. It should probably have KT77s, but earlier ones were EL34, not that the circuit will differ, but what is the power rating? EL34 would be 50w, KT77 would be 70, I think, there is a [url="http://www.burmanamps.fsnet.co.uk/"]Burman fansite[/url] and the chap from that is communicative if you email him, can probably sort a manual for you too. Burman said that just put good valves in, the circuit gives the tone, valves are like light bulbs, some will break and some will be fine. I'd go for KT77 still. If you really want authentic, you can have the pair of original Gold Lions from my Burman Pro502 for £300. No real reason for an alnico speaker really.

Anyone got experience of this? I usually use danish oil, but thinking the tint to teak oil will give a nice glow to the maple and skip out the whiteyness stage of fresh maple.

[quote name='bumnote' post='963494' date='Sep 21 2010, 04:29 PM']Well this is now mine [or at least when I go and collect and pay for it] In 1977 when I bought my 450/106 it was way out of my price range, I desperately wanted one, but couldnt afford it, and today Ive got one but im going to have a job to lift it. It wont fit the car with the other stuff [pa etc] so I dont know when Im going to use it but hey so what. How am I going to sneak this into the house away from Mrs B[/quote] I have a place you can stash it.

[quote name='cocco' post='962945' date='Sep 21 2010, 08:17 AM']Maybe I drempt this but don't the tubes in the 400+ work in 4s not pairs?[/quote] There's only two directions a tube needs to work in, push and pull, so 4 would be two pairs.

I found a new solution, own all the amps (in the world ideally, working on that, but the ones the guitarist is using) so they have to do what you say.

Days of scraping and sanding and it is starting to look like it should: Thinking I might have to accept it will retain some of its 'history' though, back looks fine form some angles, but not others, as the white undercoat is right into the deep scratches from power sanding: And the black has really worked it's way into the end grain: Anyone got any ideas on how to sort that?

I'd guess the logic is if you like ugly basses, you'll correspondingly like ugly birds.

[quote name='umph' post='961666' date='Sep 19 2010, 10:38 PM']find me a modern guitar amp that has transformers as good as partridge![/quote] You already know Chambo's do.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Trace-Elliot-V-Type-Preamp-/130433716764?pt=UK_MusicalInstr_Amplifiers_RL&hash=item1e5e74921c"]I know lots of people are after these.[/url]

Boss TU2 tuner works as a split, LS2 also. There was a signal splitting thread fairly recently. Don't suppose that just because something is official Rickenbacker that it isn't totally low bidder minimal quality, If the stereo lead is round, it is probably only single screened, and the cross talk is coming in from there.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/hondo-2-not-rickenbacker-japan-1970-s-/300469672686?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item45f5635aee"]Hondo.[/url]

Today's progress was scraping, peeling and chipping off the remaining clear original finish, so after hours of work, it looks no different. Nearly all gone and heading to the sanding parts now.

[quote name='tino' post='960349' date='Sep 18 2010, 01:08 PM']anyway heres a pic or 2 for MrFoxen of the original bridge....sorry no mute but I will throw in a duster [/quote] Cool, looks same as the ones I have, so guessing is the same part across loads of fakers. Fancy a body swap?

Totally go for the Matamp. Not sure on exact prices, but the Orange is just another machine made amp, with the price tag of the handmade thing that the Matamp actually is.

Making it look like a real Rickenbacker is even more boring. I reckon you can carefully just strip the front, and then stain it teal or something, then refinish over that, because the binding gives a suitable border.

Bit fo a rare and interesting item, I'd rather you didn't mess with it, because I want it. I'll swap/part ex for my stripped one, which needs a refinish anyway.

Chopping it down is lame. Best bet is measure up and post in the Barefaced forum, where people will tell you to use two Eminence 3015 speakers (non-LF) and work out the porting appropriate to the internal volume. I'd spray a pair of round patches black to cover the other holes and have a round port in the middle, so they look kind of like a speaker through the cloth. Ideally, you want the two drivers on one side, for best sound, but that will balance and look weird. Not such an issue as those drivers are very light. There is loads of other stuff to make a better cabinet, like lining the inside with knobbly foam and suchlike.

It can make a good sound, just not a very bassy one. Stick 2 15s in it, block up the other holes and port them, probably big enough for that, and modern speakers will probably be happy in the space, then have all the style of a 4x15, but lighter and moderner sounding.

If the lead you are using for the ricosound is not individually shielded, then you'll get bleed, OBBM should be able to sort you a proper stereo cable, rather than a two core shielded, which you might have.

Afternoon of Stanley blade work and the paint is all off, the binding is clear, but patches of the original finish remain stubborn, appears to be two layers to it. This one shows how much hand sanding has rounded off the previously sharp edges on the headstock, pretty much gonna have to live with it:

Whacking the tubes only tells you that whacking the tubes makes noise. Tubes can do that, they are only dead from microphonic if they are howling or something, or you are in the habit of whacking your tubes whilst playing. Also, running it with missing tubes without knowing the pairings and not adjusting the impedance appropriately is very bad.

Not very comparable at all really. I do like the GT2 for guitary distortion on bass, but the Bass driver is a different thing entirely.

What is in it currently? I'd guess it would be some OEM Eminence.

Some MDF and g-clamp work and I have a straight bridge, and a straight but cracked bridge. Enough to make it work, but since the bridges are susceptible to bending under string tesnion, I'm going to use the cracked one as a casting pattern, with some cunning filler, and make a new one. Should anyone else have a Rickenfaker in need of a bridge, shoot me a PM.