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rapscallion
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Is it green cos its new and high water content? If so, working it now would be a disaster once it matures and dries out as it would change its dimensions, warp, twist, etc. Best get a hygrometer and check water content. Some of the home luthier guys don't touch wood till its allowed to equilibriate for 6 - 9 months in a dry room-temperature environment.

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[quote name='rapscallion' post='701975' date='Jan 5 2010, 06:49 PM']I've got hold of some pretty green ash, and I'm wondering, do I need to have it kiln dried first, or can I work with it green? I'm told its nice to work with green but I'm not sure

Thanks guys

Will[/quote]

No Craftsman me! But...

In my one encounter with green ash, I found it to be rather "stringy" to work & prone to tear-out. Kiln-Seasoning will drive out a lot of the moisture but could still leave it prone to shrinkage and/or "checking" (cracking) - it depends what you want to use it for. Natural Air-Seasoning is better.

[s]How big is your lump?[/s] err.. What are the dimensions of the timber in question?

Pete.

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You're looking at about half an inch per side, per year if you want to season wood properly. It varies with type but that's a good general guide. This means if you prop it up somewhere dry and breezy with shelter from rain and sun you will need about two years to season a bit of wood two inches thick if you want to end up with a bog standard 1 3/4 inch body after planing. You'll then need to leave it a couple more months indoors to let it get used to indoor humidity levels (assuming the bass won't be kept in the garden). After that, you're ready to go!

There may be wood yards or suppliers who might put your wood in their kiln but some people can be quite touchy about stuff like that. If so, you'll still need to leave it around the house for a while but you could skip the two year wait.

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[quote name='rapscallion' post='705881' date='Jan 8 2010, 07:07 PM']A friend of mine works up at Goodwood estate and I think they've branched out to have kilns etc so that sounds do-able. How long would the wait be after kiln drying?[/quote]

To be safe "stack & stick" for a good few months. If you got it now, I'd be still be inclined to leave it until the end of summer.

Kiln drying never gets to the core or heart of the wood, & that moisture still needs to escape. That takes time.

Pete.

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[quote name='rapscallion' post='706120' date='Jan 8 2010, 10:57 PM']Is it worth planing it now? Or will it warp?[/quote]

It's likely to do what it wants - warp, shrink, split, cup, bow - you name it.

Best to leave it as rough-sawn & oversized boards until it's settled, especially if you were contemplating using an industrial planer/thicknesser. Sap is heinous stuff to get off blades.

If you're desparate to get stuck into something while waiting, see what you can find by way of reclaimed timber - or even old furniture. It's surprising what some people will chuck out.

Pete.

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[quote name='Bloodaxe' post='705964' date='Jan 8 2010, 09:03 PM']To be safe "stack & stick" for a good few months. If you got it now, I'd be still be inclined to leave it until the end of summer.

Kiln drying never gets to the core or heart of the wood, & that moisture still needs to escape. That takes time.

Pete.[/quote]

Considering 99.9% of all guitars are made from kiln dried wood I'd be worried if there was still a high proportion of moisture left in the centre of the plank. Maybe you've had some bad experiences but if it's kilned properly then it [i]should[/i] end up about 6% moisture content all the way through. I agree it should still be sticked and stacked indoors for a while, kilned or air dried.

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If you are going to get some dry ash these people have sold me good quality timber (actually bought for boat building but ended up in my home build 2)

[url="http://www.robbins.co.uk/"]http://www.robbins.co.uk/[/url]

but any good local supplier should be able to source good straight grained ash.

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