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reccomend a good bridge for new build


jasperok
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Well i have been fighting my bass for tone for years now and have decided to go with a replacement body as i feel it is the body that lets it down in the tone dept.
I have tried all variations of pickups and strings and it was just never what i really wanted.
I do however love the neck and body shape and depsite loving the sound of P bassess i couldnt get into the physical aspect of playing it - i have played this same bass for 10 year and my playing has grown wih the shape i have no real desire to play anything else.

Despite its weight i have decided on a piece of solid mahogony which is en route at the moment

I will stick with my lindy fralin P pickup _ though i will be ditching the J pickup from the current P/J configuration as it goes unsed.

I would like a recomendation for a fully adjustable 4 string bridge?
I think i want to go through body - does this have any negative points as my aim is to get as much sustain as possible?

any suggestions welcome.

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with through body you can get away with leo's BPOM..the body does the work

for face mounting

my choice was badass II and it did open up the A string and enhanced harmonics overall and woke up the dead spot on the G string fretted D on a fender P
its a lump of metal and does what it says on the tin without frills
you have to groove it for your string spacing but thats no problem
there is a faq i think for badass on this forum

my other non standard bridge was a schaller roller bridge..fine design with an eye to aesthetics and the rollers let you adjust the string widths at any time...the roller doesnt give a hard witness point but in that sense wont eat into your windings

there are many more which i like but havent tried...and i think the warwick idea with separate tailpiece and drop in string mounts is quite practical...makes fitting strings easier with not having to pull them through almost frustrating hole sizes for the E

my present bass has a schaller string through design and saddles which are designed for early fender neck radii
the middle two saddle adjusting screws are longer than the outside ones

good luck and hope you settle on something soon

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=193"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=193[/url]

Edited by mrcrow
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If you go for a decent bridge then the mahogany might make through body stringing redundant. Like steve-soar said it can cause breakage problems too and increase tension past what you like. Id look for a bridge that can accommodate though body string as well as 'top loading' like BadAss III or Hipshot Type A, then you can drill for through-stringing but dont have to use it if you dont want to.

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Thans foks
I have been looking at hipshot products and trying to figire out why they offer the folowing two products? is there nothing greatly different between them?
One is cheaper i guess but is that the only difference?

[url="http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=259"]http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?...etail&p=259[/url]

[url="http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=114"]http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?...etail&p=114[/url]

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[quote name='jasperok' post='546060' date='Jul 21 2009, 09:57 AM']yeah looks like the type A is the way to go then.

Is brass just for asthetics or does it have any tonal impact?[/quote]

its heavier so i guess it should give a more solid tone than aluminum but its debatable how much effect it will have with thru-stringing.

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