Need opinions on Truss-Rod and Wood Compression at the nut. (G**tar warning)

[Shockwave]

Hi all,

Sorry for the skinny stringed thing, but frankly, I do trust bass players advice more 😉

 

I’m looking for some advice on a truss rod issue with a Schecter Jeff Loomis 7-string I recently picked up. I could return it via EBAY, but I do love these guitars and they are fairly rare these days so want to get some opinions before making a decision. I could be worrying about absolutely nothing as well. I am not 100% on what it's supposed to look like, so please tell me if so!

 

I feel the truss rod nut has sunk noticeably into the wood behind it. In truth I have never dealt/noticed this sort of thing before, and I could be worrying about nothing. So please inform me if that is the case!

When I tighten the nut, it moves deeper and adds tension, which makes it hard to judge how close the truss rod actually is to its real adjustment limit. I have maybe a half turn or so from its current correct position for 9-52's at half a step down before it max's out


This is with the Truss Rod with most relief. 

 

Truss rod when straight with 9-52 strings.

 

Right now the guitar is tuned half-step down with a light 9 to 52 set. Even with light strings, the rod feels like it is not far from its upper range, which is what made me look closer. The compression could be masking the rod’s true behaviour, so it is not clear whether the rod is genuinely near its limit or simply compressing wood.

My plan is to go from a standard 7 string 9-52 set to a 6 string 10-52 Skinny Top Heavy Bottom set with a .70 gauge low string for the low B (This is the standard setup for Jeff Loomis back in the day), but I want to make sure the neck and truss rod are healthy before adding more tension.

I’d appreciate thoughts on whether the cavity looks normally worn or genuinely crushed, whether a shim repair is appropriate, and whether anything suggests the neck wood itself might be unstable. In truth I have never dealt/noticed this sort of thing before, and I could be worrying about nothing. 

Cheers!

PS:
 

One final point for context. When I back the truss rod nut out, there is not a lot of space behind it. The cavity does not have much room for inserting a shim of meaningful thickness. To rebuild the seat properly, I may need to remove a small amount of wood at the bottom of the cavity to create a flat surface for the shim. That is a permanent modification, but I am willing to do it if it is the correct mechanical solution. I would appreciate opinions on whether this approach is appropriate given the condition shown in the photos. 

Edited Friday at 17:06 by Shockwave

[Shockwave]

Just to further clarify. 

 

Edited Friday at 23:01 by Shockwave

[Andyjr1515]

 

According to the Schecter website (very comprehensive!) the Jeff Loomis JL-7 is fitted with a two-way truss rod.  When you talk of a shim, I'm not sure what or where you mean.

 

Basically, with a two way, the trussrod bends independently of the neck and works by bending in the horizontal slot in the neck.  As such, yes, there is the tendency for the nut end and the heel end to dig into the bottom of the slot as it tries to straighten the neck.  Generally, the neck obliges before it actually damages the wood, but if it is a particularly stiff neck, or if you are trying to adjust with the strings under full tension, it might well.

 

But there doesn't look like it has done structural damage and so, if you are able to get the relief you need, I wouldn't worry about it (but do remember to loosen the strings before you tighten the rod )