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Replacing a bridge


Wooks
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I know this might be a bit of dumb question to ask but if you want to replace a bridge and the screw holes on the new one don't match up with the old one can you move it forward or backward to fix the new bridge? :) Will this have an adverse effect on the intonation at all? Plus does anybody know how difficult/easy is it to convert your bridge into a string through body type bridge system? Would this need to be done by a luthier or can you do it yourself?

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[quote name='Wooks' post='191774' date='May 4 2008, 07:08 PM']I know this might be a bit of dumb question to ask but if you want to replace a bridge and the screw holes on the new one don't match up with the old one can you move it forward or backward to fix the new bridge? :) Will this have an adverse effect on the intonation at all? Plus does anybody know how difficult/easy is it to convert your bridge into a string through body type bridge system? Would this need to be done by a luthier or can you do it yourself?[/quote]

Lots of questions.

When fitting a completely different type of bridge, you must disregard the old holes entirely and fit it where it's supposed to go. That is dictated by scale length. You mark on the body the scale length, take the new bridge, set the saddles almost as far forward as they'll go, then place the bridge where the saddles are in line with the scale length.

The existing holes should be filled. One way to do this is to take some 3-4mm hardwood dowel, drill the holes out to the size of the dowels, drop some wood glue in the hole, then insert the dowels. The fit should be tight, need to mallet them in gently. Test on scrap wood to match your drill to your dowels.

Mark the new holes, and drill appropriate width holes for the bridge screws.

Putting the bridge anywhere else could jeopardise your ability to intonate properly.

Through body stringing? If you're prepared to drill big holes in your bass body. You will need to use a drill press - you do not have a hope of drilling the holes straight with a hand drill. You insert bushings in the rear of the body - metal cups to accept the ball ends of the strings.

The main thing I would recommend is to measure well, and practice drilling holes on scrap wood. Drill one set of holes too big and your screws won't bite and you'll have to fill them and re-drill. Annoying.

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Dont use std twist drills, you need wood bits as twist drills large enough to fit the metal cups will rip the wood not cut it cleanly.

Fitting a bridge isnt rocket science as long as you are good with engineering and wood. Mark an average length of string (A+D string) alonside the bridge lightly on masking tape stuck to the body before you take off the old bridge, or use verniers to measure the saddle to mounting hole relationship (my method) .

Doing the routing for string thru body is not so easy, its much easier to go for a top loading bridge, and its very difficult to tell the difference anyway(tonally) IMO.

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