Ghost_Bass Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 (edited) Hi, i got a MIM Classic 50's Precision in a trade, it came with two J pickups glued together functioning like a humbucker on the bridge position (one pickup was bigger than the other...). The wiring was even more messier, it had one volume and one tone pots, one 5 way switch to change between pickups (P / P+J1 / J1 / J1+J2 / J2) and another extra switch to turn on the P regardless of the 5-way switch position... on top of all that it also had an EMG PA2 booster fitted plus the battery! The routing job done to it was very, very bad... So, first thing i did was to order a Deluxe humbucker to replace the two J's and a new anodized gold scratchplate to replace the original that was drilled and cutted to fit all the switches. I've done my very best to perfect the routing for the pickup cavity and it turned up acceptable. Now i'm left with the wiring, i want to leave this bass passive so i don't have to buy a pre-amp and do more routing for the battery (taking off a P scratchplate everytime a battery dies isn't an option). I also want to keep costs down because this bass is meant to go on the market as soon as i'm finished and we all know that a MIM (even one of the good ones like mine) has little value. I would like to know your thoughts and ideas regarding my options, in my mind i have two: 1) Use a '62 J wiring with dual concentric pots thus keeping the original two holes on the scratchplate. For this i woul have to buy the pots, caps anda knobs; 2) Use a Vol/Vol/Tone (like a J) and move the jack socket to the side of the body. Doing this i would only have to buy a pot and a knob (keeping the originals) and the jack plate. So what do you say? Give me some ideas, please! Cheers Marco Edited March 6, 2012 by Ghost_Bass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommorichards Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 If i were you i would probably choose option one. if you were me then i would use a concentric knob for the p pickup and tone, then a push-pull pot for the dual j pickup so you could have series -parallel option. but if it were me then id use a concentric for p volume and dual j volume, then a 5 way rotary switch for the dual j. but that's just me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost_Bass Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 LOL! Sounds like i should have sold you the bass the way it got to me! The dual J is now an american deluxe humbucker wired in series (if i'm not mistaken). I won't put series/paralel option on the bass to keep it on the cheap side and prevent drilling the scratchplate. Just took delivery of two dual concentric pots with knobs from axes'r'us because they were at a very good price. Also ordered some orange drops to keep at hand. I'll use this diagram: [url="http://support.fender.com/service_diagrams/bass_guitars/019-0209C_SISD.pdf"]http://support.fender.com/service_diagrams/bass_guitars/019-0209C_SISD.pdf[/url] The pots are 500K/500K and i supose they are audio taper due to the lack of such information and i'll be using ,047 and ,022 drops. Hopefully it'll all work fine and i'll end up with a good bass ready to hit the market! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost_Bass Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 Here's a pic of the original bass: and here's how it got to me: [attachment=101851:267413_10150243267965248_627980247_7983455_6776878_n.jpg] I'll post a pic of my wiring and the final assembly when i'm done. Keep posting ideas and alternatives, nothing is final until i sell the bass Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommorichards Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 three way selector only? Then wired straight into jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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