StevieD_FenderP2009 Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 Today I went to play my bass as I normally do and as I did yesterday and the day before that but today, my Korg DTR 2000 tuner that I've had for 2 and a bit years decided to die on me. When I turn it on, every segment on the tuner lights up, all the segments of the note display are lit up, all the buttons are lit up but none of them respond and the light underneath won't turn on. I thought it may have just gone wrong the once so I turned it off then on again and the same thing happened. The "DADGAD" lights flashed a bit then stayed on constant and all the rest of it was doing as it did the first time I turned it on. So, I left it for a while whilst I played bass then tried it again but to no avail, still coming up with all the lights and displays completely lit up. After a while of trying it, I turned it on again but this time only the button lights come on and nothing else but still it doesn't respond when I press any buttons and none of the displays come on. It now keeps doing that every time I turn it on. I don't know why or how this has happened, the tuner has always been in my rack case and always treated well. Has anyone ever had this happen to them? I've contacted Korg but their offices are shut until January 3rd. Is it time I binned my tuner and bought a new one or does anyone think it's fixable? Can anyone on here fix it? If so, i'll pay them for it. Please help me! I do not need this happening now of all times! Stevie Ps: Just so you know, the tuner is always run off the tuner out of my bass amp and run off the same IEC cable. I have tried different IEC cables but same problem each time. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 Well if the indicators and segments are lighting up then you're not going to achieve anything by swapping IEC leads about. Try unwiring it and using it as a standalone unit (i.e. use the front sockets instead of the rear ones) with a known working guitar lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevieD_FenderP2009 Posted December 26, 2011 Author Share Posted December 26, 2011 No no, what i'm saying is it's all lighting up like this: As you can see, it's all lit up but not like it's supposed to. As you can see on the note display, all 13 segments are lit up and all the segments on the tuner are lit up. It's not meant to do that. Plus, none of the buttons do anything when you press them and that's how it stays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkBassChat Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 Stevie, This is a microprocessor circuit. In such cases the problem may be a complex one (like not working microprocessor), or a simple one (like non-contacting socket - missing power supply voltage). I would open it and check all plugs. If this is not the case, you may check whether the tuner can be switched to SOUND mode - by pressing CHROMATIC and DISPLAY/SOUND buttons at the same time. Then on the SOUND output there should be a reference sound. Connect an amp and listen if you get any sound. There is also a test mode in the tuner. You can enter it by pressing CHROMATIC and DISPLAY/SOUND buttons and switching the power on. There should not be anything pluged into the INPUT SELECT nor MUTE jacks on the rear of the tuner. I would also check power supply voltages (if you have a multimeter and know how to do it). For me it looks like not working microprocessor but maybe there is a simple reason for this like non-contacting plug inside the tuner. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevieD_FenderP2009 Posted December 26, 2011 Author Share Posted December 26, 2011 Hi Mark, Thanks so much for your reply. I'll have a go at putting it in to test mode tonight. I'll be honest, I reckon it's the microprocessor gone on it as it is now only lighting up the buttons and none of the displays. Hopefully it isn't but i'm bracing myself for the worst. I've found a DTR 1000 for £60 (inc postage) but i'd rather have my DTR 2000 working as it's exactly what I wanted and needed. Cheers again for your help, i'll let you know how it goes Stevie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevieD_FenderP2009 Posted December 26, 2011 Author Share Posted December 26, 2011 Nope, nothing what so ever. Keeps doing the same thing every time. Comes up looking like this at the moment and has done since it did what I showed in the last picture. [IMG]http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/Stevie_Dewar/1ec67e2e.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/Stevie_Dewar/2bb25048.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/Stevie_Dewar/8dba1fec.jpg[/IMG] You would of thought that this means it's working but no, none of the buttons respond and it doesn't show anything on the displays. Looks like the chip that sends whatever to the displays has blown and the microprocessor has given up. Last piece of equipment in my rig I expected to die to be honest. I need a new tuner =/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkBassChat Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 At least we know that the power supply is working. I wouldn't give up. The chip that sends signals to the display is the main microprocessor. And microprocessors seldom fail. Usually the main problem is either power supply, or failed components in the nearest neighbourhood of the chip. I would open the tuner and check the wires between the main and the display board - possibly with magnifying glass. Have you tried contacting Korg service? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevieD_FenderP2009 Posted December 27, 2011 Author Share Posted December 27, 2011 Hi Mark I've opened the unit up and uncoupled (i'm tired, best word I can think of) the wires that clip on to the boards then pressed clipped them back on to the right place as tightly as possible but still nothing the same as in the last pictures I took. Nothing looks like it's burnt out or melted in there (but then again, you never know what's gone on inside the chips) and all the connections seem to be alright. I've contacted Korg but they're offices are closed until January the 3rd so I won't get a reply for a looooong time and I don't like being with a tuner so i'm going to buy a DTR-1000 for now which I will then use in my 2nd rig when I build it. I'm not going to give up on it as such because i'll probably take it in to somewhere to have it fixed so it can go back in my main rig and yeah, the 1000 can go in the back up rig. I tell you what, did you want to take a look at it Mark? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thepurpleblob Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 Do these things have a backup battery inside (I have no idea). If it does, try powering off, removing it (it might be soldered in) waiting a few minutes and putting it back. Point is that we are forcing the thing to fully reset. After that... if you just want some cash for scrap, I'll take anything like that (some I win on, some I don't). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevieD_FenderP2009 Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 Hi PB, Nah they don't have a battery back up in them. That's one of the first things I checked for as I know back up batteries are prone to dying and messing up units. I'm taking the tuner in to have it looked at down a guitar shop close to me where they'll be charging me £20 to take a look at it. If it comes back that the repair is going to be too much for me to afford, I'll sell it on to you for £20 to cover what I paid for them to check it over. Obviously, I'll let you know what they say is wrong with it. If it's going to be a cheap fix, i'll probably end up getting it repaired and sell it on as working. When I spoke to them earlier, they said that if the transformer in it has gone slightly faulty, it could of caused it to do what it's doing but alas, they'll check it all out. As I said, i'll let you know what happens. Regardless of whether it's fixed or not, i've got a DTR-1000 arriving friday/saturday anyway. Had to take the money out of the cash I got for a bass I just sold that was going to pay for the refinish of my '87 P bass. It's alright, i'll just have to take the money from next months wages and make up the difference. Bloody equipment. Never seems to go smoothly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkBassChat Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 I'm slightly sceptical about "transformer gone slightly faulty" - I haven't heard about such cases. What they mean is that maybe the power supply voltage is to low (e.g. 4.5V instead of expected 5V). But this you can check on your own. If you buy a cheap multimeter (£5), you will save £15 . If you post a photo of the PC board, I can tell you where to check it. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thepurpleblob Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 (edited) Yeh - I have the schematic for it (now I've bothered to look). The power supply produces an unregulated DC 9V and a regulated 5V (through a conventional 3-pin regulator). You're looking for IC2 (a 78M05). Pin 3 in (should be about 9V) Pin 1 out (should be spot on 5V) Pin 2 is ground I'm equally sceptical about the transformer - if they fail (rare in low power equipment) it's usually all or nothing. Edited December 29, 2011 by thepurpleblob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevieD_FenderP2009 Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 Hi guys, as you asked nicely, here's a pictures of the guts of the tuner. The guy I spoke to at the guitar shop didn't say it was definitely the transformer but he said that could be one possibility. He wasn't sure without looking at it obviously. They're trusted there to fix the equipment for a lot of venues and pubs/clubs that I know of so I know they're not dodgy. Also, Pb, could you send me the schematics for it if possible please? Here's the pictures left side [IMG]http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/Stevie_Dewar/1e296d2c.jpg[/IMG] right side [IMG]http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/Stevie_Dewar/2291ca3b.jpg[/IMG] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkBassChat Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Stevie, On the first photo there are 3 blue wires from the transformer, then there is a black bridge rectifier, a capacitor (the big one), IC2 integrated circuit and a small capacitor. The IC2 is the circuit mentioned by Thepurpleblob. If you have a multimeter, you can easily check whether the power supply voltages are OK (as listed above). Have you checked that all plugs are OK? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevieD_FenderP2009 Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 I'm not going to lie, the IC2 is slightly wobbly (forgive my lack of technical terms, I haven't slept all night, am sitting here in a cold sweat and feel sick). Are IC2's easy to get hold of or to replace if this one has gone haywire? I haven't got a multimeter at home to test it with and my uncle didn't show up last night with his one so I couldn't borrow his one to try it out with. If you mean the actual power plugs when you say "have you checked they're okay" then yeah, I tried the one from my dads kettle, my Trace Elliot head, my Behringer compressor, the one I was running the Korg from originally, 2 spares I have in my rack case, the one in my dads Playstation 3 and one plugged in to something in my room (for the life of me I don't know what) and all did the same. I wouldn't of thought all, if any of those are faulty or supplying the wrong voltage when they're all powering the things they're meant to properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevieD_FenderP2009 Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 PS, only 2 blue wires are coming from the transformer to the white clip. I'm guessing this is right as it's how it's always been by the looks of things. No unattached cables or what not in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thepurpleblob Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 (edited) IC2 is a completely standard regulator (pennies from Maplin). However, there's no point randomly changing it without testing. I only really singled it out as an obvious place to check the two voltages the power supply produces. It depends what you mean by 'wobbly' - it's possible it's become dry-jointed and needs re-soldered. As it doesn't seem to have a heat-sink it may run a bit warm and as such is a candidate for that sort of thing. PM me your real email and I'll forward the schematic. Edited December 30, 2011 by thepurpleblob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevieD_FenderP2009 Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 Okay then thanks, I've PM'd you with my email and I'm going to have a go at re-soldering it later on. When I say it's wobbly, it seems like its become in-soldered from the board and you can rock it side to side. If it doesn't fix it by doing that, what would you suggest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkBassChat Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 The question is whether you can rock it side by side but the IC's leads are still soldered to the pads on the board, or you can rock it and you see that the leads are not soldered to the board? You can either look at it with magnifying glass, or measure the voltages as suggested previosly. If it's not this problem, I would suggest giving the tuner to someone who can make more tests. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BanditSid Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 (edited) The voltage regulator, IC2, may have failed - but usually they fail open and give no output at all. The most common failure on a power supply board is a dry joint, caused by components that get hot expanding and contracting with use and eventually "tearing" the solder joint apart. If you can get access to a soldering iron, or someone who can solder for you, check all the joints around the regulator and any other components that may be attached to heatsinks. There is also a possibility that the rocking back and forth you mentioned is caused by the copper tracks lifting from the PCB, in that case you need to repair them with tinned copper wire or plain insulated wire connected to either side of the faulty track. Edited December 30, 2011 by BanditSid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thepurpleblob Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Just to re-iterate, I only mentioned IC2 from the point of view of an obvious place to check the power supply voltages. Always a sensible place to start. I am reluctant to give it undue importance. TBH... I would not recommend blindly re-soldering things unless you can 'see' that the joint is dry (and it *is* worth a look). It's dead easy to short two tracks with solder and overheating the board can lift tracks and damage components. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevieD_FenderP2009 Posted December 31, 2011 Author Share Posted December 31, 2011 Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys. I don't want to risk ballsing it up more than it already is so I think it's best I just drop it in to the guitar shop and see how they do with it. I'm not confident enough in my basic electronics skills to do this so it's best to leave it to the professionals me thinks. Sorry if I wasted any of your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankieabbott Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Did you get your tuner sorted? Or was it beyond repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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