mazdah Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 (edited) I love the sound of my Dunlop - so much mid range growl and funky sounds coming out from this toy, but I have a major problem with bypass - it takes a lot of my punch and clarity in bypass mode. It's not noticable on roundwound strings, but I prefer flats and I like to have a big thump which is impossible with Dunlop in signal chain. I can have a G-lab BWW-1 Wowee-Wah for my Dunlop, but I don't know how does it sound. On youtube videos the G-Labs sound is very trebly and quite thin, but it has a lot of switches and filters so maybe it's just a matter of tweaking. And it has a greater bypass. What do you think? Edited December 5, 2010 by mazdah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_5 Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 [quote name='mazdah' post='1048638' date='Dec 5 2010, 07:58 PM']I love the sound of my Dunlop - so much mid range growl and funky sounds coming out from this toy, but I have a major problem with bypass - it takes a lot of my punch and clarity in bypass mode. It's not noticable on roundwound strings, but I prefer flats and I like to have a big thump which is impossible with Dunlop in signal chain. I can have a G-lab BWW-1 Wowee-Wah for my Dunlop, but I don't know how does it sound. On youtube videos the G-Labs sound is very trebly and quite thin, but it has a lot of switches and filters so maybe it's just a matter of tweaking. And it has a greater bypass. What do you think?[/quote] Try this - works a treat and takes about 15 minutes. [url="http://www.wah-wah.co.uk/"]http://www.wah-wah.co.uk/[/url] Look under the DIY resources tab, then choose 'true bypass mod' the 3PDT switch (or even DPDT is useable) will cost about a fiver. I've just finished doing this to mine, and it's made a HUGE difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazdah Posted December 5, 2010 Author Share Posted December 5, 2010 (edited) And which one is suitable for 105Q ? I think my friend could help me with this mod, but I need scheme that WILL work for sure... Edited December 5, 2010 by mazdah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_5 Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 [quote name='mazdah' post='1048702' date='Dec 5 2010, 08:38 PM']And which one is suitable for 105Q ? I think my friend could help me with this mod, but I need scheme that WILL work for sure...[/quote] Ah, didn't realise you had the 105Q. In theory it's the same mod (as far as the switch goes), because with the replacement switch you're switching the input signals, not the outputs. as long as the wiring's the same (and I have no reason to doubt it) it's a simply a case of fitting a new switch (follow the link for 'see diagram'). Without a good schematic I'd steer clear of the buffer mods, which means that you'd still get the 'tone suck' when the pedal is engaged. Sorry I can't be of more help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazdah Posted December 5, 2010 Author Share Posted December 5, 2010 Ok, thanks. I'll consider that option. But still I'm afraid to mod my pedal. I've found this diagram and instructions: "Yep, I've modded it for TBP and it works perfectly. Still have to add the LED/resistor in there but that'll be next. It's a very simple mod. It took me a while but keep in mind that I have almost zero knowledge of electronics. I'm sure there are other ways of going about it but here's what I did. Sorry if I'm using the wrong terms anywhere: 1. Removed the switch at the heel end on the board and put a wire between the two holes. There are four holes left but two do nothing. 2. Unsoldered the input and output jacks from the PCB 3. Replaced the jacks with ones like in my Fender Jazz. Wired the input to pole #2 on the 3PDT switch, output to #8. Grounded both jacks to the board too. 4. There are six holes left by the original jacks. I wired between each set of two but I not sure if you need to. There were a few components on the board that would get left out if you don't. 5. Wired from pole #1 to either of the holes closest in on the board on the input side. 6. Wired from pole #7 to either of the holes closest in on the board on the output side. That should work I busted the hole on the output side when I was removing the original jack so I had to solder the ire from pole #7 directly to the last component in the circuit. I'll get pics up soon hopefully. Sorry for the bad explanation. I anyone needs anything else explained I'll do my best. Peace, and good luck to anyone giving it a shot! Joe" But there were some complaints - some people wrote that there's no sound coming through, some complained that the sound is coming through, but unaffected (without wah-wah) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_5 Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 (edited) [quote]But there were some complaints - some people wrote that there's no sound coming through, some complained that the sound is coming through, but unaffected (without wah-wah)[/quote] Hmm, probably due to the switch being the wrong way round. It's easily done with a 3PDT. I'd suggest that they desolder the switch and then turn it through 90 degrees,. Then use the same diagram (using bottom Left, top Right etc...) should make a big difference. Using a 3PDT on a Wah is a bit of an overkill, as the third bank of contacts is really only useful if you're putting an LED indicator on the casing, and as there's nowhere to put it on a wah then it simply confuses matters... Edited December 6, 2010 by paul_5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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