implo

[quote name='JMT3781' post='766995' date='Mar 7 2010, 05:01 PM']Just wondering how many other people out there who are paid to talk bass rubbish all day wheres your shop, what lines do you specialise in? and which piece of stock are you in love with at the moment?[/quote] I did. I had the misfortune to work in Duck, Son & Pinker in Bath, generally known as Dusties as the stock never moves. It's also freemason-owned and everyone is paid in cash, so rumours that it functions as a money laundering front are rife. That would certainly explain why they can afford to employ as many salesmen as they do without seemingly turning a profit. I was far too honest to be a successful salesmen, though, so left after several months. We were 'encouraged' to sell awful unbranded crap to people who didn't know better and that's no good for your conscience. But it served a purpose in allowing me to play some fantastic guitars (Parker fly, vintage SGs, ESP metal monsters) basses (Stingrays, Thumbs, US Jazzes and Precisions) and high-end 6 piece kits. It was worth it as a foundation in finding out the fundamental differences between models, and is the reason I still don't regard MIM and MIA as being any different from each other, play-wise... And would buy a peavey milestone in a heartbeat if one turned up here. Built like sh*t, but the best neck I've ever played.

Never played on a proper upright until the weekend, and while a fretless electric has its own difficulties for me, the upright was a total head-f**k. I'd kind of assumed that things would be roughly in the same place, but not even remotely... So gentlemen, if you're one of those bassists who hop happily from electric to double you can start the week with a spoonful of awe from me. Be proud! Sounded wonderful though... Beautiful creature. That is all.

Very handy thread indeed! Considering this is a significant problem with 'Rays, might I suggest someone sticky's it? I can also add a little something of worth. As well as the pup issue, there seems to be many who hanker after the classic MM sound and John East's pre-amps come up alot in that regard. I've spoken at length with him (and a very helpful chap he is too) and in the end he recommended shifting out the existing pre with his MMSR 4 Knob 3 Band over the 2 EQ. This is for two reasons: 1) To quote him, [i]When the mid boost/cut knob is in its centre click, then you just have the pre EB style 2 band alone, but the sweepable mid can be very useful for tuning some definition and punch.[/i] 2) You don't end up with two jack inputs... :-/ I also asked him about how close the sound was to his '76: [i]I found it difficult to distinguish between the original 76 pre and mine on my tests, but it's not just the EQ that sets the sound, it's the bass and the pickup too. Mine is designed to mimic the pre EB EQ curves but gives a little more boost at the extreme of the bass control.[/i] He also mentioned he'd heard good things from many of his users about the Nordstrand, so it's possible a combination of the two = bass-nirvana. Bassvana?

[quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='757278' date='Feb 25 2010, 05:49 PM']The first thing you want to try is some good fresh strings, a setup to your preference & then move the pickup so that the D & A strings are about 3-4mm off the pickup poles. This gives the 3eq much more bang for your buck without swapping pickups, etc. Of the replacement pickups I've tried, I loved the sound of the Nordstrand unit, but mine sounds just great as it is on the original now I've changed the pickup height. And there's no loss of volume on the G, either.[/quote] Excellent, I'll give that a shot. Thanks very much.

[quote name='TGEvans' post='755302' date='Feb 23 2010, 07:40 PM']I have been using a multi pedal power supply from maplins for the last 6 years or so. Cost me about 20 quid. Is there any difference between one of these and say the mxr or voodoo labs units? apart from about 100 quid difference?tim[/quote] I used a Godlyke Power-All daisychain until recently which is a budget jobby probably on par with the Maplin one. I've never had much faith in the daisy chain system because they seem to add noise/a tone to the signal chain, so I got rid and bought a T-Rex fuel tank instead. Never looked back - much more robust, no noise, superb quality. I cannot recommend T-rex gear highly enough, built like brick sh*thouses and the best repair service I've ever gotten.

Hello, Apologies if this is an oft' discussed topic, but I couldn't find anything specific via search. Ok, so finally bought a 2008 Stingray 3 EQ and it's currently on its merry little way over. However, I already know it's not going to sound exactly like I want it to, given I'm after that Joe Lally 2EQ sound. I have three basic issues really. 1) Are there any 'Ray owners who have tried converting a 3 EQ model to a 2? I've heard John East's BTB MMSR Preamp captures the pre-EB sound. Has anyone tried this set-up with any success? 2) The 'disappearing G string' trick. Can this be solved just by shifting out the pick up, or does it require a pup+pre-amp swap? Given I'm after a specific tone, would you recommend a Bartolini, Nordstrand or a Seymour? I've heard the Nordstrand is the most faithful reproduction of the early MM pups, but the web is awash with contradictions. 3) I'm ok with a soldering iron, but have never poked about inside a bass. Is all this talk of shifting things out just idiocy? Any modifications have to be done at home, given the extortionate prices here. Thanks again for the invaluable advice! I really hope yet another Stingray thread doesn't make people want to kill themselves. :-/

Aye, it's not easy unlearning. I play with my thumb and forefinger, so am neither a picker nor a proper, erm, ... fingerer. My 'slap' technique too is a homemade variety, tapping the strings up on the fretboard. It's just something that's always been so and I've never been able to make the two finger approach work. Play with a pick now and again, mostly when I want that Stranglers sound, so each technique has it's application. Certainly, neither are mutually exclusive. I'm not a very big fan of 'should', mainly as any kind of musical instrument is subject to the idiosyncrasies of the player. In your position, I would focus less on playing the 'right' way, and more on finding a middle ground that sounds ok and still feels good to you. Just my tuppence.

[quote name='FreddyS' post='749595' date='Feb 18 2010, 01:51 PM']Go' dag ja, hvor holder du til hen?[/quote] Ut på landet i Akershus. Du da? Edit *kremt* Gjøvik, tydeligvis...

[quote name='FreddyS' post='749082' date='Feb 17 2010, 11:55 PM']Hi, my name is Freddy, I'm 37 years old and am from Norway. I mainly play different kinds of (hopefully) funky music... My current setup is: 9 string Chris Larkin bass, 6 string Chris Larkin bass, 8 string Basslab bass and a 6 string electric upright Chris Larkin bass. I do also own a Yamaha 415 bass that I hardly use... For amplification I use Hughes and Kettner Quantum Leap 421 combo paired with a House Of Speakers 2*12" + 1*6" cabinet Cheers![/quote] Ja, go' dag - nok en norg!

[quote name='Les' post='749433' date='Feb 18 2010, 12:15 PM']Walk away Implo. As much as I hate to rain on your parade, there are too many if's, but's, and maybe's with this bass, and too many if's, but's, and maybe's in your head. [/quote] I think you may be right there, sir.

[quote name='bass5' post='748940' date='Feb 17 2010, 10:02 PM']IF: 1) The price is right 2) The bass is in good conditions. Both structurally and electronically, preamp working? all pots working? 3) How does it play through an amp 4) Is the neck straight and I mean not warped so that it looks like an elliptical dna chain? If all of the above are a pass then sod the colour and get it, looks like a good'n from here with plenty mojo. take the body to a luthier and have it stripped repainted in whatever you like.[/quote] Not able to play it, but am assured it's in good order. The luthier tip is definitely worth considering. [quote name='Crazykiwi' post='748982' date='Feb 17 2010, 10:31 PM']nice instrument, its year will be a talking point for sure. Whats the serial? MM started the serials at 1000 BTW...[/quote] B006585 (see previous post) [quote name='RhysP' post='749030' date='Feb 17 2010, 11:15 PM']If it was me buying it there's no way I'd give it a wax or oil finish - that would definitely f*** up the resale value. Have it refinished in a way that is in keeping with the year of the instrument, be it a natural or colour finish.[/quote] Good point, well made.

A new twist in the tale - got the serial - B006585 - and it transpires this is not a '76 at all, in fact it looks to be a '78. At least if [url="http://www.musicmanbass.org/mycustompage0011.htm"]this[/url] site is anything to go by, and, as it's the site The Balls themselves use/refer to, I'm guessing it's dependable. Would explain why the fretboard is in better condition than expected. I'm wondering if the shop-peeps were told it was a 76 and didn't bother checking, or knew but didn't think anyone else would check. Never underestimate a pedant. Either way, not quite the same temptation as much of the appeal was the rocking horse sh*t aspect.

[quote name='henry norton' post='748680' date='Feb 17 2010, 06:07 PM']All bass players should own at least one Stingray in their lifetime - it's a bit like a rite of passage.[/quote] Amen.

[quote name='henry norton' post='748188' date='Feb 17 2010, 12:08 PM']Yeah that's a fair point but it's a buyers market at the moment so prices should be pretty good. I know some people swear by old MusicMan basses - I've owned a pre EB Stingray - and it certainly had some quality issues you wouldn't find on any Ernie Ball Ray, so it's always going to be a bit of a gamble buying an older version. That said, if you want it RIGHT NOW and are prepared to do some work on it who am I to tell you otherwise? Good luck with it.[/quote] Oh prices are good by norwegian standards. You didn't see EBs turning up below 10000NOK in 2008, but now prices are edging closer to 80k. If I could ask for a little more of your time, I wondered if you could expand on what issues I can possibly expect? Thanks for your help, Henry, it's much appreciated, and certainly the reason I'm here is to make sure people [i]do[/i] tell me otherwise...

[quote name='matski' post='748342' date='Feb 17 2010, 01:54 PM']Just buy it! Then strip it and paint it black.... Finding decent '76 StingRays these days is hard work. From personal experience the pre-EBs sound way better than post-EBs - much fatter in the lower end, and not so 'clacky' with the treble dialled in. I have a '79er and as soon as EB started production back in the 80s I bought one as a live back-up bass - the sound sucked compared to the '79 so i sold it about 2 months later...[/quote] I do love a ray in black, it must be said. You're definitely not the first to say the sound is very different, and it's mostly that that's putting pressure on this possible sale. [quote name='TheRev' post='748387' date='Feb 17 2010, 02:21 PM']I'd buy it and just replace the black guard with a red tortie one.[/quote] By no word of a lie, I found myself wondering what a red plate would look like on it. As far as home-brewed paintwork is concerned, it it looks to be a half decent job. It might be ok as is. [quote name='bh2' post='748511' date='Feb 17 2010, 03:47 PM']God I miss that ray.[/quote] Seems to be a mantra, that.

[quote name='Tait' post='746611' date='Feb 15 2010, 11:22 PM']here's the profile of a koala's face.[/quote] Such a sad little chap, too. Stop thrusting your buckle in his face!

[quote name='alanbass1' post='747683' date='Feb 16 2010, 08:48 PM']Looks OK from the photo's. Have you played it, if it feels/sounds good then get it. Many 70's Musicman basses are heavy which is a no no for me. I picked up my Stingray in '79 and it weighs in a tad over 8.5lbs, which is light for a Stingray. Had from new and still love it: [/quote] Sir! That is unutterably gorgeous. I'm an absolute sucker for the classic finishes and that looks in exceptional condition. Excuse me as I wipe the drool from my chin. No, I've not been able to play it as it's a long way away and I don't drive. I've played Rays before, although not pre-EB. If I decide to go ahead, one of the terms will be that I can return it if I don't like it. One of the advantages of buying from a shop, I suppose.

[quote name='Musicman20' post='747656' date='Feb 16 2010, 08:22 PM']I LOVE white basses.[/quote] Sorry man, no disrespect meant., of course.

[quote name='henry norton' post='747532' date='Feb 16 2010, 06:57 PM']Doesn't look too bad to me - but beware if you strip it back to bare wood it's more likely to be a boring looking Alder body rather than an interesting looking Ash. Also, if you do decide to give it an oil and wax finish it'll make it very very difficult to repaint it. 1300 sounds quite allot of money - especially for a refin. Have you checked out any others from around the world (with shipping etc.)?[/quote] I'm not entirely sure, but I think it's a natural finish that's been painted over. I've asked the seller the same but not gotten a reply as of yet. That being the case, I would hope the body's a decent chunk of wood. 12000NOK is expensive, but the market here is totally dead for the moment. I've been looking for a Stingray since december and found only 3 so far, all of which were either too expensive or sold. The market for used basses here is infinitely smaller than the UK, more's the pity. This is also a shop-bought bass, so will have been set up properly. That alone is something which will cost me in excess of 100 quid if I were to buy the service. And yep, I've contacted people abroad, both in the UK and the US (a couple through basschat actually) but the shipping hassle and the charges I'll incur are definitely a deterrent. That said , I am keeping my options open for the moment, and the only reason this particular bass is tempting is entirely down to the age.

[quote name='Les' post='747516' date='Feb 16 2010, 06:48 PM']Don't think it looks that bad to be honest. The fret board looks in better nick than my 79 Ray, so I say go for it, and welcome to the club, so to speak. [/quote] As far as WHITE basses go it's not to shabby, but it's just so hair-metal. Coincidentally, I viewed a '79 Ray recently and the fretboard was shockingly bad. Maybe they were using different techniques or something. But these replies have been very helpful, especially so given this was essentially my first post. Sincerely, thanks all.

[quote name='Jerry_B' post='747508' date='Feb 16 2010, 06:41 PM']I guess you may not be able to see what the original colour was until you take it apart. There may be traces in the electronics wells.[/quote] Good tip, thanks.

[quote name='Les' post='747493' date='Feb 16 2010, 06:26 PM']Show us the pictures. [/quote] I don't think I can see colour under the scratches... [attachment=42809:main.jpg] [attachment=42810:front.jpg] [attachment=42811:back.jpg]

[quote name='Beedster' post='747462' date='Feb 16 2010, 06:07 PM']Strip it back to bare wood and wax/oil it. Make it your own. Make sure the original finish isn't underneath the refin first, occasionally people get lucky like that (or unlucky when they find out too late that they could have saved the original finish).[/quote] That's a bloody good idea, that. I had thought of getting it resprayed, but oiling it would be a lovely option. From the pictures, I think the original finish was natural, so hopefully it wouldn't be horror-show underneath. Thanks.

[quote name='noelk27' post='747458' date='Feb 16 2010, 06:04 PM']You always have the option of getting it refinished. I suppose it depends on how much of the bass is original (electronics, hardware, etc), and what the asking price is when measured against market value for an factory finished example.[/quote] It's the 'keeping original' bit which is such a problem. Although, I suppose as it's already non-original that's a moot point. Other than the paint, as far as I'm aware it's original. The market's not exactly buoyant here at the moment, but it's going for roughly 1200 quid. New EBs here are anything from 1500 up to the late 2000s. Vintage MMs can sell for anything from 1300 to stupid money, depending on condition. This one 'should be' 2000, I'm told.