How1

I'm in the market for some new strings after one of my flatwounds crapped out. I'm also having a bit of a nightmare recording with my Dimarzio Model PJ + Flats - I can't seem to find a sound I'm happy with at the lower end. So I'm thinking of getting a set of roundwounds for the Dimarzio's, then possibly buying one of their P-basses in the near future for a dedicated flats setup with a more vintage pickup etc. Their basses - at least to me look really good for the money. Does anyone use their strings and/or basses?

So all the strings are loosened and laid on the fretboard. This is not a coincidence, right?! I’ve been messing about with it for so long I’m losing my grip on reality 😁

Sorry, no I didn’t replace the strings - just took them off and put them back on again. I’d been a bit sloppy when I partially undid the strings to resit a pickup. I wound them round the peg by hand, so thought they’d possibly got twisted or weren’t settled properly.

I know this is an oldish thread, but I seem to be having the exact same problem with my A string. I’ve tried everything - restrung the bass, set the bridge again, lowered/heightened the pickups nothing works. I’m sure when I unwound the strings, the A string did a little ‘uncoil’ like a snake, so maybe it’s been twisted and damaged? If it makes any difference they’re Fender 9050L flats. The pickups are about 3mm from the string - they’ve been higher and lower and still the same problem. Here’s a sample (alternating between B & C on the E and A strings. It sounds worse the more top end I put in it. https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqMlPJ96mQr-qXcZ1dga63xswHIv It looks different as well, with a noticeable spike at the beginning of the note:

Thanks for the help, I’ve (re)ordered it.

Thanks for the replies both very helpful. It looks as though it’s got a pretty sensible/usable dynamic range eq-wise. I want it to replace the preamp I removed from my bass which was wildly loud, hard to control and noisy. I’m primarily using flatwounds/Precision and want a bit of a nudge up in the lower mids and a slight bass cut, somewhat of a vintage soul tone, rather than full on growl. The tube sim should be useful too for this I’m hoping. I’m probably being slow here; so does the low-mid switch cut AND boost, depending on which way you move the dial? You set the switch for your desired ‘shape’ and then dial in to cut or boost those particular frequencies? I’d assumed (going on the settings icons for the switch), that it was cut only but now I’m guessing I’m wrong…

So I noticed that there's a middle/centre notch and arrow, but this is at number 5. Does this mean it's boost only, i.e. Everything at zero being your flat input signal, or is 5 the input signal? It's numbered 1- 10, rather than -/+ 5 so I'm unclear. Also is there a way to bypass the three way tone shaping switch and just dial in your own sound via the eq dials? And does the switch apply to the eq as a whole or just the affect the mids (the switch is in between the two mid dials)? I ordered one but cancelled - I decided to hang fire a bit longer, unsure whether to go for this or the MXR m81. Any info would be great, thanks.

It’s temporarily sorted for now. I’m considering the kill switch though. How is it wired? I’m guessing from the jack socket?

The old Lee Sklar trick 👍

Now that does sound interesting 🧐 😁

So far I think the doweling option is a good one for the front (and another sticker 👍). The kill switch could be handy though as well. The Stingray style control plate option I like as well, but it sounds a bit beyond my capabilities/toolbox. I think for the back it’s gonna have to be wood cutting time though. just out of curiosity, what would the series/parallel switch offer me? I’m not sure I’ve ever had or used one before.

To be honest, no reason whatsoever. I would just rather get it back to as much of a sold piece of wood as I can without any unnecessary bits. It would be a lot easier to put the battery compartment in, that’s probably why I don’t wanna do it 😂

It was 5 potholes, now it’s two after adding V/V/T pots. This is it from the front (it’s currently got No Nails in it to stop any liquid (beer!) getting in it for the time being. I’m not at home at min and don’t have a picture, but the battery compartment is basically pretty neatly cut battery shaped hole! More or less untreated other than some primer from the body’s first coat (presumably). It did cross my mind just to put the old pots in them and add control knobs, seemed a bit silly though adding dead controls.

I've just ripped the preamp out of my Charvel San Dimas and rewired it as passive - now it has a hole where the battery compartment used to be and two extra pot holes (pardon the pun). What's the best way to fill them? I'm not overly bothered about matching the finish or anything yet, just doing a good job on filling them.

Thanks for the replies. I've been looking at the Beyer DT770 Pros. I like the fact that there are spares available for them (even though they're a bit more expensive than some others mentioned). Those AKG52s don't look bad either. Sorry, when I say recording I mainly mean for monitoring & mixing, with the odd bit of mic recording - percussion at the moment. So yeah, closed back would obviously be good. For practicing I'll be plugging them into my Laney Digbeth preamp (when it arrives!).

That looks like a no brainer. I'll probably get a pair of those even if I get something else as well.

I’m after a decent set of headphones for recording and also the ability to practice quietly late on when everyone’s asleep etc. Obviously something that’s good at handling bass but still sounds accurate for other stuff. At this moment I haven’t got a budget in mind, just curious about options so anything goes price wise at this stage.

Oh well, it helped me out two years after posting! And I joined the forum 👍😁

Brilliant, it worked! You’re obviously some kind of wizard 😁 But seriously, thanks. I would never have known that. I just assumed putting the red wire in the wrong place resulted in flames haha.

So, just to be clear that would be the red and green wires coming from the pickup (either one)? I’m no electrician

I know this is an old thread, but I think I know what the OP means. I’ve just removed the preamp from my Charvel PJ and installed the DiMarzio pickups passively with VVT setup. With both pickups on full it completely cuts out the p/neck pickup out and alters the sound of the bridge pickup (makes it more trebly). If I roll the P pickup back a tad it actually gives the bridge pickup a bit more bass! If I start with the bridge pickup full, and then slowly increase the P pickup, it does absolutely nothing until it’s on full and has the above effect off cutting bass from the J pickup. I’ve checked the wiring again and again against the DiMarzio diagram and it’s all wired correctly and both pickups work as they should when used one at a time. It makes no sense.