rwillett

Just looked the weight up and it's 35Kg. Thats 77lb 5.5 stone 686 Mars bars 0.002% of a new London Bus 0.0002% of a juvenile blue whale 60% of a Taylor Swift 30% of an average rugby union forward (professional) and a hell of a lot to move up a loft ladder

Suspect he's right, a bit of gas welding will soon have it on it's feet again.

@Jackroadkill I'm tending to agree with you. Working on this design. This gives me space for any weights or a preamp, or four knobs and a few switches. It'll probably be three knobs, vol, vol, tone

Gosh, not heard that pun on my name since I was around six years old...

I'm playing about with how the control panel will look. I'm starting to favour a more organic look, as shown by the red plate below, rather than the Telecaster or a straight line look. This looks nicer to me, but would like to take views. This also allows me to cover the very bottom of the bottom left for any weight to balance it out if needed, also this allows for more space and more options. At the moment, I just put three knobs on and a socket. I really want to preserve the rounded feel of it all.

I think cmake is more trouble than it's worth. Perhaps drop back to Make and makefiles and see if that works. Sometimes the extra effort of stuff like cmake to reduce effort for cross platform support is more than the additional effort of doing it manually. I used to build code for large, complex systems in the 80's and 90's that had to run on lots of different platforms, and we had less tools than we do today, but we understood how they worked then. Make is a bit awkward and basic, but it does work, we modified and built Unix kernals with it, so we know it can handle complexity. I suspect there's enough brainpower in this thread to help if and when you want it. Rob

Alan Partridge channels his inner Rob Willett....

So, had some time free yesterday and a few really dull Teams calls, so kept on playing about with the design for the bass guitar. Its getting there and I have deliberately not printed anything yet, or even worked out how I'm going to print this beast or burden. I focussed too much on printing the six string, I feel I compromised the design a little. Hopefully this one is better. I'm also pondering what the wiring will look like. I don't know yet what pickups to use, I'm intending to make my own, coz I have so much spare time on my hands (not). I might make it a Jazz like or something completely off the wall. One of the lessions learnt from the six string is not to do tunnels with the printer as they need to be big and compromise the body, so the control panel here will have a surface 6.25mm socket. At the moment I'm thinking of a Telecaster like control panel with a volume/volume/tone. That also frees up the bottom left for any lead plates to put in to counter neck dive (if needed). I'm interested in any wiring that gives me lots of options to try out. I did see this on Talkbass <gulp> which led to this beauty... Possibly overkill, but it did make me think, how do I wire it? I know how to wire it as a P or J-bass, but I'll throw the question open, if I can wire it anyway at all, what would be "interesting" and fairly sensible (not sure what that means TBH). What would you do? Thanks Rob

Love the name, "Animal". So cmake is for generating makefiles. It's the preprocessor that generates the most god awful makefiles as it's all automatic. You want a Makefile thats 20,000 lines long, will compile every version of GCC on every version of processor the world has ever seen, in 97 differennt languages, have I got the system for you! To be honest, cmake can be a massive PITA, actually cmake is a massive pain in the ars3. I am assuming that the build system for mod_dwarf uses cmake and so it's mandatory as it automatically brings in all the libraries you may ever want, apart from LV2, which is the one library you actually need. is this your problem https://stackoverflow.com/questions/8774593/cmake-link-to-external-library? This is a decent (but heavy duty) ref https://cmake.org/cmake/help/book/mastering-cmake/ As with most stuff in Unix, it assumes you know it all anyway and simply need to occassionally check something out. Since I know you're not stupid, I would have thought you would have seen and discounted this https://forum.mod.audio/t/plugin-dev-writing-a-sequencer/6679 I can also see that people are now putting package managers on top of cmake to manage library dependencies because cmake isn't complicated and difficult enough, so lets put another layer of abstraction on top of this and try and abstract the whole build process away. We tried that in the 80's, learnt the lesson that it was mad and produced systems that were impossible for mere mortals to build and maintain without combining Feynmann and Einstein with a hint of Bohrs. Anyway back to the problem in hand. Happy to help, not looked at cmake recently but could fire up a Linux VM to see if I can help that way. If you do need a Linux VM (for free, just to be clear) to try stuff out, let me know. I have a VMWare server sitting here with a load of disk and memory doing sweet FA. You can connect it and play to your hearts content. All Gb in and out as well so no messing around with paltry 100Mb connections. I would hope that between us and the more recently technical aware here, we can get this fixed. Let me know. Rob

No update for a while, work has got in the way of this. I managed to find some time yesterday as t'other half and daughter #1 went to see Lucy Worsley in Kendal talk about Agatha Cristie. I have managed to get the motors to work the way I want them to now. I did rather feel it was a battle of wills between me and the motors and they were winning. Which is sad It does look like one of my stepper motots has been abused ine the past, the only person I can think of is <ahem> me, so some more are on order from Ooznest. However I did seem to get them working with some odd and small stepper motors I found in the a box from some astrophotography project that went nowhere. I ordered some 0.9 and 1.8 degree stepper motors. The 1.8 degree version gives me a 100% speed increase for £10 so thats a bargain. I like bigger motors as I have also found a 24V 4A power supply that will replace the bench PSU I currently use. I have now managed to write the code so: 1. The lead screw goes back and forwards correctly to lay the wire down. I did like that to be honest. It makes it look like its working. 2. Rewrote the LCD code to use a different non-blocking library to display information as its winding. The issue before was that when you write a small tiny update to the LCD, the motors basically stop. I hadn't realised writing to an LCD display was so slow that you can time refreshes with you stopwatch on your iPhone. Rewrote all the sodding code and cut out everything that wasn't needed. Not it still stalls but it's very, very, very small. 3. Started writing the code for the 'home' function. This is the code that moves the winder to the left, hits a limit switch, then moves a certain user defined distance to the right. This certain user defined distance will marry the edge of the wire guides to the bobbin and will be different for each bobbin and so it needs to be flexible. I did have a mad idea of using a laser to line this up and then discarded it as I'd be blind as I cocked it up. I wanted to use the Prusa method checking for stall guard and having a physical limit switch. Stall Guard is only available on expensive stepper motor drivers so back to the drawing board and am using a physical limit switch. This is the mounting plate and this is the limit switch Of course good wiring practise is that you wire it up so the switch breaks connectivity on contact, so that if there is a real break in the wiring it "fails safe", but no, all of the sodding pre made wiring is it makes a positive contact on the switch being closed. So if it breaks, you have no idea. Which moron designs the wiring looms here? So I need to make a JATG to DuPont cable and the only thing worse than wiring JTAG is wiring DuPont connectors. Once this is wired in, I'll write the homing code, mentally written as I walked the dog this morning, but lets see. That should be it and then I can start seeing if it works. Things still to worry about: 1. Wiring tension 2. Wires coming off the main holder and twisting and jamming or breaking. 3. Mains wiring. I hate mains as it can kill me. 4. Speed. 5. It just doesn't work. Rob Rob

The edges will be filletted (or chamfered or something). It's just not been done in F360. The six string was and the rounded bits took on a different shine to the rest of the body. Now if I do expoxy resin the body, this 'shine' will probably go away. At the moment, the focus is getting the guitar winder to work. Struggling with issues on stepper motors not working together for some reason. Rob

I ended up with this below. Silent, easy to use as I'm an idiot and compact. This is me trying to get the pots set on the stepper motor drivers for my guitar winder.

I'd come down to Nottingham for that as I have family in Chesterfield. I used to know Nottingham quite well. Rob

Women in Rock in Morecambe. In fact I'm here now. Anybody else here?

I have all the bits for a headless but let's get the body sorted and using a decent Fender neck and see if it all works then move to headless. Not going to use a Fender nwck for headless..I have some standards, they may be low but at least I have some.

Headless is v3.

You've clearly never experienced the unbridled wrath of Zoe have you... I'd need the kitchen door open, a very fast car and a one way plane ticket to a plece without an extradition treaty if she caught me melting lead in the kitchen. To be honest, to be really sure, I'd need two major knee ops in advance to make sure I could get to the fast car before she caught me. Hell hath no fury doesn't even come close to what would happen to me.

I like the idea of wheel balancing weights. My local garage probably has loads when they change and balance wheels. The advantage of a 3d printed body is that I can hide the weights, but if the garage has loads spare that might be easier. never thought of those. I'm also contemplating t;other half coming home to me melting lead on the kitchen cooker. Mmmm..... not sure thats a good idea Rob

I think you are right. However I have some lead flashing left over from a new roof, but have sold all my dive gear as my ears had issues, too many dives and far too many ear infections So I don't have any lead balls (where is Finbarr when you want him?) If I plan for 1.5Kg but only need 750g, that's fine. Here's the size of the pocket for 1.5Kg, it's not that large an area so I can fit it around the control panel (when I design it).

@Richard R Lead has a density of approx 7800Kh/M^3 - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead which is 11.34g/cm^3 Wood has a density around 800Kg^m3 - This varies depending on the wood, but no wood approaches lead in density. See previous link. Now if I need to make the body circa 1 -> 1.5Kg heavier (thats a guess and probably too much), I need to probably put 1Kg as far back on the body away from neck as I can, and as low down as I can. If I need 1.5Kg of lead. not shot, but sheet (is that what its called), then I need 1.5Kg at most, which is 1500/11.34 = 132 cm^3. As the guitar is 44mm deep and lets put 5mm each side to cover, that leaves a depth of circa 3.4cm. 132/3.4 = 38square cm, so a area of approx 6cm x 7cm x 3.4cm deep is enough for 1.5Kg of lead, which I think is possibly too much. I need to design in a pocket size of 6cm x 7cm to add enough lead. That shouldn't be too difficult as I'll put it around the electrics bit so it's low down. Thanks for the ideas Rob

@Richard R If only that was the case, you missed out annoying git, pedant, bore and person who nobody wants to talk to at a party.... ...and incompetent bass player and poor guitar player.

@Richard R Already thought about exactly that. Great minds think alike. I used to teach scuba diving and had a lead shot weight belt. It also came up in an astronomy forum for making counterweights. The back of the guitar adjacent to the strap button is likely to be a potent shot locker. Rob

Didn't mean to come across as rude, sorry. If oak is more dense than plywood, I will look. Now checking to see if its substantially different https://endurancelasers.com/density-of-various-kinds-of-wood-and-plywood/

@Aidan63 Simply because I have some very nice 15mm plywood and I don't have anything else. Wouldn't recognise what oak or any other hardwood even looks like. My woodworking skills are slightly less than a new born baby squirrel, I suppose I could bite it to get it to shape. One option might be to fill some of the voids with a hard wood, but that requires me to make something to fit. See above. If it's on a computer, great, if it requires manual dexterity, I'm dead in the water. Rob

If I was tasteless and loved bling, I could do that, yes.