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lidl e

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Posts posted by lidl e

  1. 13 minutes ago, Quatschmacher said:

    The latest version has been stable so far. What version did you use when you wiped your C4?

     

    Sorry you spent hours flailing: I have posted recovery instructions in a couple of places recently for some users who had similar issues. 

    I found this on the other site. 

     

    Screenshot_20240714_164545_Chrome.thumb.jpg.82a9b27e35b722a76fbbc214ef4e7d20.jpg

     

    I believe i was on 3.0.10 when it bricked the pedal. I have 3.0.18 now but im scared to use it. 

     

    You can see many people bricked their pedals when neuro 3 first came out in that thread.

     

    I wonder if this is the case. I asked in the other thread, but is this possibly possible?

     

    "
    So i don't know how any of this works, but does this this mean you can use this process to change the firmware on a source audio pedal to any of their other pedals? Was your aftershock effectively their trem pedal in the aftershock housing?"

     

    Do we have access to all SA one series pedals just by updating firmware manually in bootloader? Because that seems to be the case, but i cant imagine.

     

    I know the artifakt is a different housing, but most ofnthe others are similar

  2. Major issues with the neuro 3 desktop app.

     

    Bricked my C4! Was able to fix but i had to search for a few hours to find instructions.

     

    I did DL the latest neuro version published last night (3.0.18) but im nervous to use it. Now my C4 is factory reset. 

     

    Waiting to hear from the source audio guy if 3.0.18 is good to go. Hopefully i can use my old backup file

  3. 3 minutes ago, itu said:

    First one, with a Kahler?

    Second one, Bean bass?

    Third one, the Artist, please tell me about it.

    Yes, yes and yes.

     

    Had all 3 of them for years. Always been a big ibanez fan and had quite a few at my peak ( favourite was the ibanez ICB500 iceman bass which i unfortunately sold)

     

    The artist bass is a 2615B. It seems to be made from leftover lawsuit bass parts.

     

    Vol/vol/tone/tone with an active passive switch

     

     

    Set neck. Cool inlay work. Sounds killer.

    • Thanks 1
  4. Bought one of these today to test it out.

     

    I put a preamp in my jazz bass, but i want to go back to passive.

     

    This seems easiest and quickest way to be able to swap back and forth.

     

    Looks like it should be easy enough to install.

     

    https://www.thomann.de/ie/obsidianwire_j_style_bass_solderl._harness.htm

     

    Yes, i realise it is pricey when you can just solder point to point, but the convenience is what sells it to me.

    • Like 1
  5. 10 hours ago, SamIAm said:

    This schematic claims to be for that EQ and it shows a 20K pot.

    https://everycircuit.com/circuit/5314341701681152/active-2-band-bass-guitar-eq-

     

    Also, this post has some more info
    https://www.talkbass.com/threads/1990-ibanez-sr1000-wiring-help.1089289/post-16157750

     

    Sam x

    I was looking at that EMG BTS as i think that is basically the same as this Ibanez BQ-II. 

     

    But when icgot the bass back, it sounds so good, i want to try and get this one sorted.

     

    It does have EMG pickups.

  6. 1 hour ago, 3below said:

    The little black thing with a stripe is an electrolytic capacitor.  The pot (in the model circuit) is 20K.  The best bet is to de-solder the pot and remove it from the little board.  You will have to do this anyway to replace it, de-solder braid and or a solder sucker are useful.  Get a multimeter (a cheapie  10-12 Euro one will do), and measure the resistance between to two outside terminals (legs).

    So that's a cap like on my fender basses. Like the .047 

     

    The little PCB is just a design choice? One could achieve the same idea without it?

  7. 52 minutes ago, 3below said:

    Looking at your images confirms it is not the above circuit, the treble capacitor on your board is C6, on the schematic it is C3.  Must look more closely at the evidence in future :(  Having said that there is no reason why the RC combination in that circuit could not have been used in other preamps.

    Cheers, bud.

     

    I dont know any of this!

  8. 13 hours ago, 3below said:

    Are you replacing an existing pot?  It could be logarithmic or linear either side of the detent.  Are there any legible identity codes on the pot?  If not you have four possible ways forward. 1. Ask the manufacturer what pot is fitted, 2.Search the internet for a schematic or clone schematic which might show the pot type, 3. Make some basic measurements, using a multi-meter and determine if the pot is log or lin, 4. Buy a log and a lin centre detent pot.  Try them both and see which you like.  What preamp is it? the BC collective wisdom may know the answer to your question.

    20240623_022320.thumb.jpg.3f7a8c2d2147f6fca4f75022ac41789d.jpg20240623_022413.jpg.7ed90d8f9f0e7a5a1d23bb9dd6f1d00d.jpg

     

    It's this fella. Treble boost from a 90s ibanez BII preamp

     

    Any way i can tell what i need?

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