Dan_Nailed

[quote name='BottomEndian' post='411514' date='Feb 16 2009, 09:38 PM']I was wondering exactly the same thing recently. I ended up with the following list of budget 35" 4-stringers:
Peavey Cirrus BXP
ESP LTD F Series
Ibanez BTB range
HK / Woodo (or whatever name's on the headstock) 4-stringers

But like 6stringbassist says, a good 34" can have a beautiful B. Every bass is different, and some 34"s have that magic combination of factors that gives a clear, powerful B. In my (limited) experience, they tend to cost more. [/quote]


Spector make a 35" Euro, the Euro 435LX it was called once upon a time. Now you just specify which scale you ant when you pick the options.

Scale length is definitely not the only deciding factor in a B string. One of the best B's ever was on a 34" Spector NS5CRFM, and some of the worst have been on 35" scale Ibanez's. It's all about neck construction, and scale length helps it along.

I've been playing 5's for so long that anything less feels like I'm limiting myself. But having said that I can't see the point in a high C on a six, so don't want to go higher.

Maybe I could buy a 6 and tune it F# B E A D G? Sounds like a plan...

[quote name='GreeneKing' post='410508' date='Feb 15 2009, 11:01 PM']Worth checking the hole size but the 6.4mm ones may fit.

[url="http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/332"]http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/332[/url]

Peter[/quote]

They're almost band on 5mm with my tape measure...might order a few anyway, what's a millimeter among friends?

[quote name='GreeneKing' post='410491' date='Feb 15 2009, 10:46 PM']Rubber blanking grommets - the solution

Peter[/quote]

Finding somewhere wih them in stock is a pain...I'd have to order a few different sizes as each of my bass is differently drilled. No anywhere that does them online?

I think they do make black brass bridges, but I think they go on the US basses...my US bolt on has a brass, black coated bridge. The coating is wearing off a little and you can see the brass underneath. The footprint of these bridges is different to the Euro's though.

[quote name='niceguyhomer' post='410481' date='Feb 15 2009, 10:38 PM']I do like that black bridge...I think I may swap the hardware around with my amber Rebop. I don't mind gold hardware with amber finished but I don't like it at all with the black cherry..waddya think?

[/quote]

There's options C & D too:

Option C: Order a black bridge from Spector and black Schaller M4's from anywhere, sell the gold hardware on here (the bridge would be harder to shift than the tuners).

Option D: Get the gold bridge anodized (either send it away or do it yourself with an at-home kit), and buy new tuners. This gives you the benefit of having a brass bridge on your Euro - I think the black bridge on the Rebop and my Euro are steel, as they're almost powder coated like those black Pearl drum hardware.

But I personally don't think black and amber goes together so I would swap them over. The reason I got black is that I think gold hardware on anything is a little bling(except black basses, then it works) and that Euro's with gold hardware look hodgepode - coloured gloss, gold bridge and tuners, black nobs and pickups, brass nut, pearl inlays yadda yadda. Lots of clashes. I'm even gonna put a black input jack on mine to match up, sad I know.

[quote name='kdphysio' post='410480' date='Feb 15 2009, 10:37 PM']definitely a 'fuller' sound at 18v. shame you didn't record the tone pump version.

i must admit, i couldn't spend that amount on a stunning new bass, & then start stripping things out of it (isn't there a bass out there with 'your' sound as standard?)![/quote]

Ah, but surely they'd have to charge less for selling a bass with no preamp in it

Just taken this out of my Euro:



It's the newest one with the trim pot, and to be honest is better wired. I've got a wiring diagram but it's easier than the old version, in the pic above there are 5 loose wires, red goes to battery +, white to volume pot, blue goes to output jack. Black's are grounds, one goes to the back of a pot the other to the sleeve on the output jack.

Same price as the last one I sold, £25 posted with the 4 Spector knobs included.

More pics:









As you can see I've gotten rid of the Tonepump(which I'm selling in the for sale section), it's just two volumes now. Shame about the holes, never did find a solution to that problem...

Also here's an interesting comparison, I modded the bass to 18V but did a before and after recording at 9V and 18V, clips here:

[url="http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~dcnailed/9V.wav"]9V[/url]
[url="http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~dcnailed/18V.wav"]18V[/url]

These are both straight into the desk, no EQ, compression or anything. Gain was set the same as the 18V mod doesn't increase or decrease output.

Interesting the hear the difference, it's subtle but definitely perceivable. I should have done a recording of the Tonepump flat at 9V to see how it affected the tone but didn't think to. One thing I'm 100% certain about is that the flat Tonepump doesn't sound as full and growly as the 18V pickups on their own.

If you want unbranded/cheap ones I'd gor for the ones of Bass Guitar Parts Direct.

If you want branded as in Schaller or Hipshot (either of which are good) then they've got those in stock too but they're not the cheapest options.

There's actually 4 chrome Gotoh GB7's on US ebay for £12.70 right now, if you can find gold ones for around that price, go for them!

[quote name='crez5150' post='408312' date='Feb 13 2009, 11:07 AM']Just buy new strings you pikey's [/quote]

I used to think like this but believe it or not, boiled/cleaned strings actually sound a little different to brand new strings - they've got that punch but not overly bright with string noise. It's a unique method of attaining a consistent tone but it works!

[quote name='99ster' post='409650' date='Feb 14 2009, 08:40 PM']The mutt's nuts for bass cabs, guitar cabs, kick & brass (& great for some vocalists) is the Electro Voice RE20 (or RE27). Expensive but fantastic.[/quote]

I very nearly suggested this as they're truly great, but I didn't want to suggest one of the more expensive options

Also you could try a Sennheiser MD421 if you've got wonga to chuck around. They're brilliant as well.

In fact you're pretty spoilt for choice here and there's always a few used mics on Ebay, all these suggestions will do a great job, except a D112 IMO.

Having played both of a friend's Status S2's and numerous Ray's, 4 and 5's...I'd rather have a good Ray than either Status. But I'd much rather have a Status than any of the bad Ray's I've played!

Never played a Pre-EB bass, but I find some Ray's I like and others not. Usually I like Rosewood board Ray 5's, even though I think Ray's should have maple boards because the sound is great.

I mean every instrument is different, that wouldn't have been any different in the Pre-EB days. A 35 year old lemon is still a lemon, it's just got history

[quote name='LukeFRC' post='409580' date='Feb 14 2009, 05:36 PM']really do you have nothing better to do today?[/quote]

Not really no.

[quote name='greyparrot' post='409491' date='Feb 14 2009, 03:36 PM']As said the price for this bass is £3 900 at present on the web. Their are only 24 of these in the world matey! ok so its pretty unique. People who wish to buy this will look into it, and they will see that this is correct. This is underpriced at 2k by £600. Now show me another example of this bass new or 2nd hand under £3500 other than mine and i will agree but till you can point us all in that direction, i think you should keep your opinions on other peoples sale treads to yourself. As i said you have a chance to prove me wrong, past a link here maty. I think at 2k this bass is cheap, and at £2,400 it is right for 2nd hand. Now if i wish to sell this at this price, it is up to me and not you. As you say £300 [b]plus[/b] shipping and tax means about another £800 on top.


Regards, Rich.[/quote]

Here's the link to Bass Central - [url="http://www.basscentral.com/spector/usa_th.shtml#5string"]http://www.basscentral.com/spector/usa_th.shtml#5string[/url]

Their retail is $6300. After 33% discount that makes £2999ish plus shipping. THAT'S A FACT. However, my point was only ever that you can't use US prices as a guideline, which you do continually, as there are too many different factors involved. Tomorrow, the US economy could crash, exchange rates could go to £1 = $2.5 and then a brand new one with shipping and tax from the states would cost about £1800. We weren't far off this 5 months ago. I was never trying to harm your sale for a special reason as I will explain in a moment, but instead trying to hammer home the point that the US market has NOTHING to do with pricing over here. It would have been easier if you just said "I paid X number of pounds, and want to make X back due to wear and tear, or lack thereof".

Now the reason I took an interest in this thread from the first moment of you posting the first thread, is a chap I'm acquainted with in Wales has one of these and was thinking of selling it but was wrestling with the idea as he desperately wants to keep it. He was going to be asking £1800 off the bat, which he thinks is about right considering he only paid £2700 for it off Thomann a while back when the Euro was very low - they imported a couple or three of these basses, I remember seeing the item on their webshop at some point.

I didn't really want to steam into the original thread and point this out but now you've asked me up front, that's the fact. Whether he sells or not is up to him though, you may see him sign up on here if he can't find cash from another source.

[quote name='greyparrot' post='409199' date='Feb 14 2009, 01:24 AM'][b]
Hello mate, now before trying to hamper other peoples sales, i would get your facts right, and leave people to sell how they feel fair . Right! The RRP form spector is around $7500 (nearly £5000) the discounted price is $5600 or £3,950. see here [url="http://www.music123.com/Spector-NS-5XL-5-String-Bass-Guitar-515043-i1324679.Music123"]http://www.music123.com/Spector-NS-5XL-5-S...324679.Music123[/url] Now none of the shops claiming to have the bass, have it! You are quite right regarding the $ against the £, but remember other than this one, the only place you will find this bass is in America, that means not only paying top dollar, but also importing over here! I think that this is the only one in this country.and number 15 of only 24 ever to be made. Now its simple, 1st, i have had alot of interest in the bass, understandably it is a very special bass and not cheap, "nd i have lowered the price to make a sale. If i decide that i am not desperate to sell (which im not, ) then if i wish i will put the price up to what I think is right. As commented 2K is a steal for this, and if you see it, you will agree. Now i'm a good chap, and lowed the price hopeing that it will be more affordable, check it out. As i said this is very very special. To me its worth every bit of 4k and to be honest i'm thinking of pulling it, cos it just about blows every bass i'v played away, both in sound and looks, IMO. So in a few days time this bass will go up to its correct price (IMO) of £2400 or removed from sale, cos its so rare and so nice, and i will kick my butt if i sell it![/b][/quote]

I looked here last night and wasn't going to reply but seeing as you edited your post to be more patronising I thought I might as well point out that you've missed the point completely.

Music123 is overpriced, it's a fact. You [b]can[/b] get one of these brand new from Bass Central for £2999 + shipping & tax, NOT the £3950 + shipping & tax you state. However if I go on some other US website and pick a price off there I'll get a different figure. Ditto if the exchange rate changes.

Your entire policy seems to be basing the pricing off the US market, which in my experience with Spectors (being an endorsee and everything) is just pointless.

[quote name='greyparrot' post='409199' date='Feb 14 2009, 01:24 AM'][b]
i would get your facts right, and leave people to sell how they feel fair[/quote]

Everything I've posted is 100% fact, do the maths yourself. And if we left everyone to sell everything at whatever price they felt fair and no one questioned it, we'd be paying near new prices on used gear.

[quote name='greyparrot' post='409199' date='Feb 14 2009, 01:24 AM'][b]
If you was to go to your bass dealer and the bass that you were after was reduced by £400 for one week, would you moan? or buy it?[/b][/quote]

Not if it was already overpriced by £600 I wouldn't.

Just my view, but I wouldn't wish a D112 on my worst enemy. I hate the things, only kick mic we had at the Witchwood for years. Flabby and loose to me.

My vote goes towards Shure Beta 52 if you can afford one. They're cool.

57 and DI works for me when I can get two channels but that's with one ab, one signal blended. If you're running effects & clean signals then the 57 won't be good, doesn't capture enough frequency range!

After being a die hard DR guy for over 5 years I've actually switched to D'Addario. Main reason being is that Hi-Beams are twice the price of Prosteels, and if I get anything more than half the same lifespan out of a set of Prosteels then I'm making a saving (I usually changed DR's twice, a year, they lasted that long). With the exchange rate being what it is DR's are just too much cash.

Comparison wise, the Prosteels remind me very much of Stainless Lo-Riders, probably due to the hex. When I first started with DR I went with SS Lo-Riders, 45-130, then tried Hi-Beams 45-130, then Lo-Riders 45-125. After trying the Hi-Beams I felt they lasted a little longer than the Lo-Riders so stuck exclusively with stainless Hi-Beams, either 45-125 or 45-130 depending on what was in stock at wherever I bought them at the time. I preferred the Lo-Riders tonally and feel wise(slightly, not much in it) but the added life gave the Hi-Beams the edge.

So the difference between Prosteels and DR's? Easy.

1. Similar tension to Lo-Riders.
2. Brighter than Lo-Riders out of the box, about as bright as Hi-Beams.
3. I found Lo-Riders to feel a little rougher in texture than Hi Beams, and these are a tiny bit rougher again(nowhere near Rotosound levels though). However if I wasn't so well versed in DR's I'd struggle to notice a difference between all three, maybe that's my skin or something.
4. Longevity - we'll see. If they last as long as Lo-Riders(about 4 months) I can't see myself going back to DR.

In fact, because of the price (£17.60 on Stringbusters) I could change them maybe every 3 months and have more consistently fresh strings for more of the time...

[quote name='LukeFRC' post='409109' date='Feb 13 2009, 10:32 PM']I have no idea how questioning either his price or his sales ethics help him sell the thing.[/quote]

Because if he understands the market then he's got more of a chance of success making a sale...at least that was my aim I can't speak for any other posters.

If that's your plan then make sure you organise it well in advance and not on the day! Every airline differs but usually it's the captain's discretion, I'd sort it first. Long haul flights are less stringent, if you were going to Paris or something on easyjet they'd probably tell you to stick it in the hold or buy a seat(to earn them mroe money) but to South Africa I'd guess it's a slightly better airline and they'll have a more professional, old-school feature called "customer service". You can employ "customer service" to your benefit in obtaining a flying experience where you're treated like a "human being".

You may not be familiar with these terms if you've flown with Easyjet, bmibaby or Jet2 before...

I've only ever been in original bands where depping wasn't really an option - you had "the band" that wrote the music and rehearsed it, no other reason to teach the stuff to anyone else. Only rule was that we'd try utmost to do gigs, and we'd need a really good reason not to. Anniversarys, close personal family birthday's etc. It is a measure of commitment if someone is whether to miss a friends & family barbecue to do a gig in a toilet venue the same night, whereas there is other stuff that you can't really have a problem at missing a gig for.

However it would seem to me that from my experience in larger ensembles at University and college that the more band members there are, the harder it is to get them all in the same place at the same time. If you're playing covers making money and you can't do a gig date, surely getting a dep in for you is the same as getting someone to cover your shift at any other job!

The pantheon of metal styles is evergrowing, some have been somewhat regrettable (Nu-Metal) but most continue to endure and evolve (Thrash, Death, Black, Grindcore).

You can literally put anything you want into a crossover with metal. Also the lines blur between metal and rock bands, look a Tool. They've got metal in there but they sound nothing like Slayer or Machine Head do they. All metal bands though.

[quote name='greyparrot' post='408744' date='Feb 13 2009, 04:09 PM']At the start it was £2800 I'm giving people the chance to buy a bass that is worth far more than the value as i know we are all in hard times, BUT if it does not sell for that price, then i will eighter take it off or leave it at £2400 and even that is well below what its worth.[/quote]

It's only worth what people will pay, and what people can afford.

You keep mentioning the US bass on Ebay being £4000, but that's only £4000 because the exchange rate dropped recently. As little as 4 months ago, that auction would have been £2999 - does this mean if the exchange rate rises again you will drop your price?

Also that auction is a little overpriced, Bass Central have one of these listed at a retail price of $6300, so their real price would be substantially lower - probably closer to $5200ish as the Spector retail prices are a generous margin indeed. This is a conservative estimate as they usually knock 33% off retail on Spector's, and the Spector retail pricing structure is universal throughout the range in terms of trade cost to RRP. This would mean that a brand new version of your bass from Bass Central would be $4158, or £2917, give or take a hundred quid - and that's using the current (poor) exchange rate).

I don't mean to hamper your sale, but going by the US-based prices, especially on Ebay, is in my experience completely unrelated to the UK second hand market.

Been reading around on here and seen a few different tactics for going on planes with basses/guitars. Having done this more than few times in various different ways I've discovered a few methods and tips that should stop your stuff getting damaged, and if it does get damaged, how to get compensated by the necessary parties.

The undisputed best way to travel IME is by booking an extra seat for your instrument. With plane tickets to the continent costing so little this is a great approach. Nailed flew over to Ireland and we booked three extra seats for two guitars and bass, it worked out costing £70 between four of us for all the seats, and the instruments never left our hands. Obviously be careful going through security - put cables and any tools/string cutters/polish etc in your checked baggage. With Ryanair, the extra seats were only £10 each whereas checking in a music instrument bigger than a violin was £25 [b]per instrument[/b]. Also taking the guitar onboard protects your fragile hold weight allowance, which on budget flights is usually around 20KG per person. My lightest bass is my bolt-on Spector, which weighs 11kg in it's case with no pedals, cables, or straps - ,my Korean Spector is closer to 14KG as the case is slightly bigger. Your cases don't have to be flight cases, you can take a gigbag if you like.

An added bonus is that usually, the plane staff will sit you right at the front of the plane as due to emergency requirements the biggest, loose items need to be up front. This means you get a free "upgrade" to better leg room and get to watch the snooty weekend businessmen trudge past you on a Sunday morning flight to the battery chicken stalls that the world refers to as "mid-aircraft".

However, buying an extra seat just sometimes isn't cost effective, and you have to check in. In that case, here's my packing advice:

1. ONLY put the instrument in there if possible, however if there isn't someone with you taking checked baggage then feel free to put all your crap in the case, pedals, pliers, etc etc. all the security risks that can't be taken in the cabin.

2. Buy a case with a lock, and use it. Padlocks are OK, combination padlocks better.

3. Gaffa tape over the clasps, at least four times around the case per clasp. Use the stickiest tape you've got and press it down firmly. Tape over this tape 4 times with Fragile tape.

4. But a strap with a combination clasp on it, as strong as you can afford, thread this under the case handle and lock.

At this point it's useful to point out that none of this will stop baggage handlers getting into your luggage, but it will deter them. Security "checks" of baggage are generally unnecessary as X-ray machines pickup most threats. If they try and get into your case, they're usually stealing.

When putting the instrument in the case I like to wrap bubble wrap around the body neck and headstock, and lay a double layer of bubble under the instrument and a single layer on top. It'll be hard to close the case but the guitar won't move inside the case, which is what causes most damage, and if the wood is fairly thin it will bulk out the internals and if anything heavy lands on your case and cracks it, the pressure should force the wood out and stop moisture etc getting in.

CHECK IN AT OVERSIZE BAGGAGE, EVEN IF YOU DON'T HAVE TO. Prague airport had massive conveyors in the terminal, but we went to oversize baggage anyway. Oversize is usually dealt with last, which means it's last in the hold but first out - doesn't have 200 bags lying on top of it. Also leads nicely to...

Inspect the instrument IN BAGGAGE COLLECTION. Take it off the conveyor, and start opening it. The Nazi's in airport security haven't banned you carrying keys yet so use them to cut the tape and unlock and locks. IF YOU LEAVE THE BAGGAGE CLAIM WITHOUT CHECKING IT FIRST ANY LIABILITY IS FORFEIT BY THE AIRLINE. Even your travel insurance will try and wriggle out of it, if you bought any.

If the instrument is damaged, which it shouldn't be, you have to make a damage report in-situ. There should be airport staff who can bring a member of your airline staff down to you and take a formal report. Don't leave the baggage area if at all possible, and if you do, leave the instrument there with a member of staff. Any time the item is unattended or leaves the baggage area is a chance for them to dodge their responsibility.

Think that about covers it...more text than I thought!

[quote name='BigRedX' post='354296' date='Dec 14 2008, 03:34 PM'][/quote]

Lot of great basses in this thread, but this is my favourite I have to say.

[quote name='kdphysio' post='407695' date='Feb 12 2009, 03:56 PM']Nice one.

Spector's new UK distibutor is/will be 'first line music'. They apparently should be up & running this month.


Karl[/quote]

Never heard of them, who else do they distribute?

Start with a Peavey Bandit guitar combo, not mine but on loan from the sister's boyfriend:



Then bought a Peavey Combo 115 after realising I couldn't do anything with a guitar amp:



This combo was HEAVY and not very loud. I ran a Behringer Ultrafex on it and it sounded OK, but the Behringer was junk.

Then I bought my first proper rig in a big splurge, which I don't have any kind of photos of, but was:
Hartke HA5000
Peavey 410TVX
Peavey 115BXBW
Samson PB11 Power Conditioner

I used this for a while until I got a huge Tech 21 boner and bought a Sansamp PSA-1 as a pre, which I ran into the Hartke. This was late 2004, and I joined Nailed in early 2005. Swapped the Hartke for a QSC RMX1450. Not a bad rig this but I didn't and still don't think the PSA-1 cuts it as a bass preamp on it's own. So next I PX'ed my cabs and bought..

AN AMPEG 8x10"! It's the law!

This sounded better but still my tone wasn't there, so I got rid of the PSA-1 for an SVP-PRO, and bought a dbx166XL and an Aphex Aural Exciter, and ended up with this rig:



This was much more like it, can't recommend the SVP-Pro enough if you like Ampeg. I put JJ's in it and it was awesome. I soon ditched the Aphex though as it was pointless for that rig, and moved to this rack setup:



I used the money from the Aphex to fund the tuner and PLX upgrade after selling the RMX. I kept this for about 2 years before I start disliking doing gigs due to the 8x10" and weight of my rack. I decided to stop drooling on the Mesa site and take a positive step towards my dream rig, which I got. Head off Ebay, cab off basschat, sold everything else except the tuner to fund this:



And that's where I am today. My effects history is even more convoluted...