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Posts posted by Badscrew
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24 minutes ago, LukeFRC said:
I think the ideal from a cost basis would be to breadboard and test a circuit, work on ways to improve or edit it- then make a small batch for friends/selling - I’m a graphic designer so the fun of packaging and coming up with a look would be fun too.
Issue would be coming up with something original enough to make worth doing
100% agree
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15 hours ago, LukeFRC said:
Partly as a “I should try this” I designed and ordered some pcbs last year for a project. 10pcb cost as much delivered as a pint in a city.
learnt a lot, made the mistakes etc but it was interesting even at low order numbers how cost effective getting the boards populated were- it made me wonder about squeezing some projects into 1590a size enclosures
the main downside would be a minimum order number of 10 I think which would cause a whole heap of problems.
Not all of them require min order of 10 though
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36 minutes ago, LukeFRC said:
It’s actually quite interesting how you see more and more “boutique” manufacturers moving towards SMD construction
Well, it's cheaper to make and has no negative impacts on "tone"
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3 hours ago, LukeFRC said:
I think if we get up to 100 resistors and 65 capacitors you have to be considering the TC electronics £40 version of that - with the added benefit of not being my shoddy soldering!!
Yes but if the TC was « hand wired », it would be over 500 😆
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4250 can have a very low quiescent current (in microamps range) - might be interesting for something running on batteries or even on super capacitors.
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As it was already suggested, might just be the documentation that's describing it wrong
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24 minutes ago, LukeFRC said:
Wired directly to board though
Ouch. Then if it's indeed backwards, this means a screwup from whomever routed the board.
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4 hours ago, tauzero said:
No, it's linear taper.
Then it's weird. Easy to flip two wires if the action is backwards
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2 hours ago, tauzero said:
I shall await your verdict with interest.
One minor point - I'm not sure if the documentation is wrong or the control is backwards, but it says the Mid control on channel 2 is counterclockwise for boost and clockwise for cut.
That might be because it’s difficult to source reverse log pots. Did they use a normal log putting it backwards instead? This allows for a useful taper with a much more easy to find pot…
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2 hours ago, tauzero said:
There's more info in https://aionfx.com/app/files/docs/l4_bass_preamp_documentation.pdf
They don’t really explain the design choices
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35 minutes ago, LukeFRC said:
It has a gain per channel then a master out on the top right?
Ah this might be that
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21 minutes ago, LukeFRC said:
I have NO IDEA what it actually sounds like - but I want to make one
https://aionfx.com/project/l4-bass-preamp/
( @disssa has probably made one!)
Weird that it has a distortion but no way to control its gain/level?
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1 hour ago, LukeFRC said:
Depends what you’re aiming for!
Have ideas for buffers - DIs - EQs - boosts (maybe not all in the same device!)
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Gathering my will to restart my electronics adventures. If all is working out like I expect it will, I'll be subjecting y'all to my electronics experiments soon
Nothing original most probably (but what new can you possible invent in the transistor real these days!)
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Definitely looks like Guild humbuckers
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My daughter:
"Papa, WHY is this so beautiful?"
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Pretty sure you can find a Starfire II for this price. These have two Darkstars and sound great
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Yeah, being all mahogany was what I liked about the red and what made me decide among other things
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Water jet would be more appropriate
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26 minutes ago, Obrienp said:
Yeah, I think it was some sort of epoxy and really randomly applied. Not really potted, just haphazardly sploged. That is what caused my luthier friend so much work.
Well, I didn't feel like doing the work, just exchanged this bass for a Squier Precision that I then sold
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23 hours ago, Obrienp said:
Got to state my vested interest up front, I am selling mine in the Basses for Sale listings. The reason it is dark is that the pickup is wired in series as standard. I have got more tones out of it by wiring it to have a series/single coil/parallel switch. Single coil and parallel have a brighter top end. The FSR version has a 4 conductor pickup as standard but they just wired it in series for some reason . I had to get a luthier to rewire my pickup to 4 conductor (standard Affinity version). I guess if you give it 500K pots it will make it louder and brighter too.
Yes, the Jag body shape does cause it to neck dive but so do quite a few Jazz style basses (in my experience ). At least the Jag H is quite light.
I would've rewired mine if it wasn't potted in some kind of hard goop (epoxy?)
DIY Effects
in Effects
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What is this, please tell more