ikay

Thanks for the very useful feedback. I really need to try a few EUBs to get an idea of what they feel and sound like but they're few and far between in the regular music shops around here. I had a very brief go on a real DB a few months ago and could hardly produce a sound due to high action and the sheer physical effort of fretting a note. Which doesn't bode well for my potential abilities!

The trick I think is going to be finding something that I can get to grips with in terms of physical playability but also has the potential to produce really good sounds when it's played well. I'd rather spend a bit more and get a quality instrument that will inspire me to learn and practice rather than something that struggles to sound good even when played well.

I'm a novice to the world of EUBs but keen to have a go. I'm looking at either an Aria SWB Lite or NS Design NXT4. Can anyone offer any comments on either of these in terms of playability and sound quality? Do they come anywhere close to emulating an acoustic upright?

Be grateful for any input

Thanks

Have you tried a different set of headphones?

Fret buzz? Do you have a very low action and/or very light strings? Does it happen with both open and fretted strings? Is it more noticeable low down or high up the fretboard?

Could it be some sort of vibration happening around the nut/tuners or bridge area rather than the playable part of the strings? Try damping the strings between the nut and tuners (stiff a bit of foam or something in there to stop the strings ringing) and see if that makes any difference. Do the same for the bridge to make sure there's nothing going on down there.

Very interesting video. A lot of hand crafting going on there, particularly with the neck. Probably the vintage range I guess rather than the regular CT production line?

Grub screw sizes are anything but universal unfortunately. If you can put up a picture of the bass and a close-up of the bridge along with details of model/year etc that would help.

[quote name='Gunsfreddy2003' timestamp='1330378673' post='1556602']
Can you fit these into a 2 band Stingray?
[/quote]

I think the East MMSR 2-band is a straight drop in

[attachment=101217:East MMSR 2-band.jpg]

[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1330355006' post='1556061']
Same Vain

[url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Paddle-Guitar-homemade-ecoguitar-/190646050715?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item2c6363df9b"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2c6363df9b[/url]
[/quote]

At least it doesn't pretend to be anything other than an unwanted chopping board (rather than a pre-CBS cigar box ) and the starting price is slightly less ludicrous

[quote name='Beedster' timestamp='1330364564' post='1556285']
I don't necessarily agree on the point above suggesting that a limited pre-amp can be compensated for at the amp. In theory yes, in practice, I haven't found it to be that simple. If you're ring to do it all at the amp, you have to ask why have EQ on the bass anyway? If playing an active bass I always preferred to run the amp flat and EQU precisely - and the East mid-sweep really allows you to do so - on the bass.
[/quote]

That's a fair point Beedster. I also generally run my amp flat. I just don't find the SR pre to be so bad - probably my lousy ears!

I think Beedster meant pre not pup. What's lacking with the stock pre that can't be sorted with a bit of shaping at the amp end? I'm sure the East adds something but the stock pre suits my SR5 pretty well IMO ...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Bass-guitar-Hand-built-unique-/280831859034

Er yes, I think he got a bit carried away with the zeros in the starting price

This thread from the Telecaster forum may have something of interest.:

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-technical/134298-how-relic-metal-parts-how-pit-chrome.html#post1527752

See the post with pictures from Lostheart about halfway down

still available

still available

Just sold my US P bass to Rich. Very straightforward transaction and a pleasure to do business with. Many thanks Rich and enjoy the bass. Cheers, Ian

I tried various pedal compressors (Digitech, Aphex, Trace-Elliot, EBS) but they all either coloured or dulled my sound to some degree. I now use a DBX160A rack unit which I'm very happy with. It does the job with no fuss and is almost completely transparent. Very easy to set up, and very easy to see what it's doing (LED meters show input signal and compression levels etc).

For a limited time in the early 80s (83 I think) Fender did make a Jazz with a single piece pickguard and white control knobs.

It's mentioned in this post on the Fender forum - http://www.fender.com/community/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=6448

Full details of this are in the 'Other musically related stuff' forum, link below:

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/168134-sonuus-b2m-bass-to-midi-converter/"]http://basschat.co.u...midi-converter/[/url]

Pristine condition complete with original box and instructions etc.

Price is £55 delivered (UK only)

No one curious to experiment with MIDI bass...? Go on, live a bit, don't be so boring !

[quote name='Davebassics' timestamp='1329340606' post='1541056']
Am I missing something?
[/quote]

Apparently removing the cap completely does result in a subtly brighter tone, here's a demo (on guitar)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dN3SlH-cEAg

Picato nickels are good value and worth a try if you haven't already - http://www.stringsdirect.co.uk/products/8716-picato_nickel_roundwound_bass_strings_40_100

I think what you're after is a rotary potentiometer switch. Farnell Electronics has a 220k lin version:

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/displayProduct.jsp?sku=1637187&CMP=e-2072-00001000&gross_price=true

[quote name='dood' timestamp='1329260552' post='1539888']
Has anyone had any experience with using one of these as a kinda 'notator' - I mean, firstly for just recording bass lines as MIDI parts but then also using it to 'score' with. I appreciate it won't be clever enough to work out positions on the neck for 'tabs' but wondered how it faired for just getting a line down in MIDI?
[/quote]

Dood, I haven't tried this but, as with the midi triggering, I expect results would vary depending on the bassline. It should work for relatively simple lines played cleanly but would fare less well with more complex stuff, fluid patterns and fills etc.

[quote name='BH12neil' timestamp='1329261199' post='1539898']
What would I use on the neck of the guitar?

BH12neil
[/quote]

FAQ from EBMM below. You can get Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil and Gunstock Wax on ebay.

[b]How do I maintain the neck on my new Music Man bass? [/b]
For everyday cleaning, use a small dose of high-grade lemon oil. For the fretboard, use Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes Fretboard Conditioner. If the neck is very dirty, give us a call or email us at [email protected]

An infrequent dose of gunstock oil will help to keep the neck maintained; we recommend and use Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil, but any good quality gunstock oil will work. Clean neck first. Use a small amount of Tru-oil, leave it on for 5 minutes, then wipe it off with a paper towel. Then apply Birchwood-Casey Gunstock Wax. Be sure to douse the paper towel with water before disposing of it! Read the wax and oil manufacturer's instructions regarding disposal of these used paper towels.

Rosewood fingerboards should not be treated with gunstock oil; instead they should be treated with a high grade of lemon oil.

For cleaning, try using the same high grade of lemon oil to clean the entire neck, both maple and rosewood fretboards. Keep in mind that if the dirt or grease has been worked into the wood, it cannot be removed except by sanding it down, which we do not recommend unless exercised with extremely fine sandpaper (1200-1600 grit), and even then very sparingly. It is better to keep it clean in the first place. Washing your hands first helps!

Some discoloration after many hours of playing is normal on unfinished necks.

Be sure to follow all of the manufacturers recommended safety precautions when using any of these oils or waxes.

I've had a lot of fun experimenting with this but ultimately haven't been able to adjust my playing technique sufficiently to be able to use it as a live midi/synth trigger which is what I had in mind.

It's an interesting bit of kit and well worth experimenting with if you have ideas of triggering midi/synth sounds. Be aware though that some things work better than others.

It's extremely sensitive to playing technique (eg. striking cleanly and consistently, damping strings to prevent false notes triggering) and the sounds your triggering also need to be very carefully set up (eg. for note range, velocity sensitivity etc).

I got best results with simple/slow moving lines or percussive patterns. Depending on what synth your using, this alone can generate some hugely impressive sounds. I'm using a Proteus 2000 module - it's a wierd feeling playing a single note and hearing an orchestra!

It's not so good for fluid playing and fast runs. At least not with my playing technique, you may do better!

As a way to explore another side to your bass though it's a great little gizmo and well worth an experimental punt.

This one is in pristine condition complete with original box and instructions etc. See pics below.

Price is £55 delivered (UK only)

[attachment=99954:P1040213.jpg]
[attachment=99955:P1040220.jpg]
[attachment=99956:P1040221.jpg]
[attachment=99957:P1040222.jpg]

Hmm, that's nice too ... anyone played one of these?