scojack

That has come out pretty nice i'd say, and the magic (and fatal ) words at the end ,,,,my [i]next[/i] project....

The crack at the top horn on 2 puts me off a bit, taking into account the radio active filler i'm going for 3. Although i wouldn't mind any of them

Thanks Norris, glad you like it This shape has morphed over the years but i finally feel like im [i]nearly there[/i] with it.
Cheers Andy !

It's been a bit of a struggle trying to finish off the lacquer at this time of year, normally i wouldn't even bother but i really wanted this finished.
There's still a bit of buffing to do but i thought i'd grab the camera while it was still daylight..








Just the bridge(s) to put on and a brass nut to do ...

Ian

Nice carving on the top Andy, Oh and the neck woods are a great combo too ...lovin it

Lovely, looking forward to seeing these

Bet the wife hasn't seen that in the spare room! Wet glue / Light Carpet your livin' on the edge my friend

Does it for me looks stunning ! The lacquer brings out the natural beauty of the wood,

Andy,
Know what you mean about generous fingerboards, the pau ferro i used last must have been nearer 10mm.
Anyhoos..
How do you do the neck angle to get the strings to the bridge height without a 'flying' fingerboard?
Ian
PS looking great BTW

Oh i think i get it now (Can't see the neck/body join in the photos).

Ian again

Stick it str8 in the bin ...cut out the middle man

There's some really really nice work on show here, the detail is first class. Superb for a first build, first of many i hope
Ian

Jaw dropper Kev

Saw Jimmy Johnson with the guvnor myself a while back.....sublime:)

Thanks guys that'll be 3L+2R then. Glad i asked cause i was going to order them t'other way round!
Ian (DOH)

Lost the plot !!
Got myself into a state of utter confusion.....

Need to order tuners for a RH 5 String (3 on top 2 on bottom see pic)

Can someone confirm that i should order 3R+2L or is it 3L+2R ???!???



Ta
Ian

Think mines is 13 if i remember correctly, i made a router jig for this but it was eons ago.

I have done something similar in the past although I glue my headstock under the neck wood which eventually pushes the join well into the headstock. I would then remove some material from the sides of the headstock wood and then glue in some 'wings'. This had the effect of hiding the scarf join completely from the sides with two unjointed pieces running down each side of the headstock (hope this makes sense). Now i don't bother, i leave the scarf join visible at the side of the headstock (it is covered by top/bottom veneers though), if its a good tight join you don't even notice it. This way i can start with a very slim neck blank (~20mm) and don't waste as much material.

Ian

Wee update, progress is slow on this now.
Routing completed and still a wee bit to do on the finishing but getting there...
Front needs a few more coats of lacquer



Hate this camera







Ian M

Hello from sunny Bannockburn

"more expensive basses have been built with better attention to detail, which is why string tension can be better"
Nope sorry Eude can't agree with this generalisation, many expensive basses use pretty standard parts from Schaller, Hipshot etc etc. Their break angle being no different from an inexpensive bass.

How does an expensive bass with the same string length have a 'less floppy B string' than a cheaper model ??!?

Good luck m8

Very nice indeed You putting any veneer in between Andy?

The maple looks really really good when it's dressed, for what its worth .. BEM fingerboard for me