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Paul_C

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Posts posted by Paul_C

  1. [quote name='Greydad' post='826632' date='May 3 2010, 05:25 PM']Nope, not at all - it's just become pretty beefy. Feels like muscle, just a bit surprised it's so noticeable. I have been playing a lot though.[/quote]

    you don't have muscles in your fingers



  2. This isn't quite a feeler, as I'm looking to sell it - but I do need to replace it fairly rapidly if it does sell, so there might be a delay while I juggle selling and buying so as to be sure I have a useable set up.

    It's a magnificent-sounding beast, but it has proved a little large for some of my recent travel experiences so I'm looking to downsize.

    It's probably going to need collecting or I can deliver for fuel costs within a reasonable distance.

    £750
  3. [quote name='Paul_C' post='814971' date='Apr 22 2010, 01:49 PM']according to the D'Addario charts [url="http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf"]http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf[/url]

    with a std. set tuned E A D G, the tensions are :

    E 40.3 / A 48.4 / D 51.3 / G 42.8

    with the tuning raised to F B E A the tensions for a 40-100 set are:

    F 41.7 / B 52.9 / E 54.1 / A 42.5

    and a 35-95 set are :

    F 38.7 / B 47.8 / E 44.5 / A 32.4

    those numbers wouldn't necessarily apply to another make of strings, but it gives you an idea of the differences[/quote]

    just noticed that they do a 40-95 set which would be the closest match to the original tensions

  4. [quote name='Bobby K' post='814950' date='Apr 22 2010, 01:29 PM']Hello bass friends

    Just wanted to ask about a tuning issue.

    For future gigs I'm planning on having one of my two Precisions tuned up a whole step (in F# as it were)

    I'm normally using standard gauges (45-105) but am considering using a lighter gauge for the [i]tuned up[/i] bass, maybe 40's, or even 35's.

    What are the implications of tuning up a whole step, i[i]s it safe to do so[/i], with regard to the neck etc?

    I'm in a Smiths tribute. Andy Rourke was often tuned up a whole step on his bass, back in the heady days of The Smiths in the early/mid 80's. I've never bothered with this tuning before now but have discovered that it would make some of the lines a lot easier to play :)

    Any thoughts would be much appreciated....[/quote]

    according to the D'Addario charts [url="http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf"]http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf[/url]

    with a std. set tuned E A D G, the tensions are :

    E 40.3 / A 48.4 / D 51.3 / G 42.8

    with the tuning raised to F B E A the tensions for a 40-100 set are:

    F 41.7 / B 52.9 / E 54.1 / A 42.5

    and a 35-95 set are :

    F 38.7 / B 47.8 / E 44.5 / A 32.4

    those numbers wouldn't necessarily apply to another make of strings, but it gives you an idea of the differences

  5. [quote name='silddx' post='812777' date='Apr 20 2010, 05:02 PM']Sorry mate, but relief is [b]directly [/b]related to the action. Too much or too little relief will cause fret buzz in different places if you set the action too low.

    To the OP. Fret (or capo) the E string at the 1st fret and with your your right hand fret the E string at the 12th. While you are doing this, look at the 7th / 8th frets and see how high the string is above the frets. In general terms there should be a very small gap, around half a mm. If it's much more than that there is too much relief (tighten the truss rod), if the strings touch the frets there is too little relief (loosen the truss rod). You should get the relief right before adjusting the saddles.

    Get the correct tool to adjust the truss rod. With a little pressure the truss rod should turn. If it doesn't, do NOT force it, take it to your local techie. Do not do more than a quarter turn at a time, preferably only an eighth. Let it settle for a minute or two, do the 1st/12th fret thing and see if your E string has a tiny gap. Repeat if necessary. Then adjust the saddles until you get a lower action without too much rattle.

    There is a great free guide here .. you have to sign up to the Jerzy Drozd newsletter but that's no sweat, the guide is superb.

    Good luck, any questions, Basschat is here.

    EDIT: Shims are a last resort after you've tried everything else.[/quote]

    The point the previous poster was making is that if you want a lower action then you shouldn't just be looking to change the relief to do it, but you are correct in saying that you should have the relief set correctly before making other adjustments, then if the neck moves due to changes in humidity it's a simple job to then adjust the truss rod to keep the set up as you prefer it.
    If the relief is correct and the saddles at the limit of their adjustment then a shim (assuming a bolt-on neck) will help - usually you don't need much to change it quite dramatically, and sometimes it might not be possible if shimming raises a part of the neck that then causes choking when playing the top frets.

  6. [quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='811891' date='Apr 19 2010, 09:10 PM']As far as I know, there's no passive bypass on a Stingray, so in answer to your question, it won't be so much quiet as utterly silent. :)[/quote]


    I could be wrong, but I have a feeling a Stingray can operate without a battery even connected - so it might be that.

  7. [quote name='Paul_C' post='810641' date='Apr 18 2010, 07:52 PM']Have you checked [url="http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/"]http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/[/url] for stock ?

    not far from us.[/quote]

    the bass player in the band I drum for has the 1x12 version, which is fine (i.e. very loud from where I sit) for small venues and would no doubt be D.I.'d for a larger one and so working as a perfectly useable monitor.

  8. [quote name='fretmeister' post='810503' date='Apr 18 2010, 05:45 PM']Anyone tried these two back to back?

    When my Ampeg / TecAmp rig goes I'm pretty sure I'll be getting one of these. Of course no bugger has them both in stock to try them out.

    Anyone used them both? Which did you prefer and why please?

    ta[/quote]


    Have you checked [url="http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/"]http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/[/url] for stock ?

    not far from us.

  9. [quote name='Grand Wazoo' post='790340' date='Mar 30 2010, 10:22 AM']Hi does anyone know with certainty what strings make and model that JJ used? Thanks (on his P bass not on his upright by the way)[/quote]


    google says "James Jamerson used La Bella heavy-gauge (.052-.110) flatwound strings that he never changed."






  10. One of "The Collection" I had a couple of years ago - probably the only one in the UK in this colour.

    Currently defretted with the slots filled with white plastic for a very clean line, but I can refret it if a fretted bass is preferred.


    £250.
  11. [quote name='pal1972' post='782294' date='Mar 22 2010, 12:28 AM']recently got hold of an old squier jazz, the prb;em i have is that the open 'A' string when played just doesn't cut through, but it does when the a string is layed on the frets! ive got a mag600 head and when playing open strings the vu meter moves much more on the other open strings than on the 'A'. I'm guessing its just a crappy pup, so what would be good replacements??[/quote]

    if the pickup is working fine as soon as you fret a note on that string, wouldn't it suggest the fault is with the nut or maybe a lack of break angle over it ?
    (so more wraps on the tuner or at least try and push what you have lower)

  12. I had a major trek from sunny Northampton down to rainy Brighton for a gig almost on the sea front, four bands playing lots of variations on the ska/reggae theme with the headliners (local band The Hotknives) playing a storming set to finish off an excellent night.

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