Aussiephoenix

[quote name='Aussiephoenix' post='36067' date='Jul 23 2007, 07:18 PM']Should I place the ce-2b before or after the wobo?[/quote]

I guess what I mean is I dont exactly know how a buffer works... if it should be placed at the begining of the chain or the end...

Anyone?

[quote name='Toasted' post='35820' date='Jul 23 2007, 10:37 AM']The CE-2B has a decent bypass, but it also a buffer. It's handly to have ti in your chain all the tim to drive the long cable run to your amp.

Hope this helps, any q's ask away [/quote]

Should I place the ce-2b before or after the wobo?

LOOL, true I guess.

Ahhh, I get it, thanks for the explanation guys, it makes sense to have the env before the comp after all.

I didnt know that the signal in the fx loop was hotter... strange, most guitarrists defend that their pedal chains sound better in the fx loop than between guitar and amp...

[quote name='joegarcia' post='35909' date='Jul 23 2007, 01:55 PM']I wouldn't personally bother using the amp's fx loop. I also wouldn't have the compressor before the envelope filter.[/quote]

Y not?

wouldnt the env filter have a better signal to process that way?

what advantage is there in having the compressor after the env?



Toasted, looking back at it, you did explain it well...
I am curious though... why shouldnt I put pedals in the fx loop? whats the difference between pedals and rack gear that would make rack gear more suited for the fx loop? (say a G-Major or something like that...)

[quote name='Toasted' post='35820' date='Jul 23 2007, 10:37 AM']You need to keep the following out of the signal path:

Ibanez Tonelok PH-7 (Phaser)
DOD fx25 (Env. Filter)
DOD (fx94?) Sampler/Delay
Behringer BEQ700 (EQ)

You also shouldn't put them in the FX loop. They would be best in the loop of the WOBO. The CE-2B has a decent bypass, but it also a buffer. It's handly to have ti in your chain all the tim to drive the long cable run to your amp.

Hope this helps, any q's ask away [/quote]

Hmmm... so, looking at the whole thing, would you set it up like:

Bass -> Amp

Amp Fx Send -> Multicomp -> MXR M80+ -> WOBO Looper -> CE-2B -> Amp FX Return

WOBO Fx Send -> fx25 -> PH7 -> fx94 -> WOBO Fx Return

?

Hey guys,

I'm going back to pedals after owning a gt6b for a while, and I'd like to get your input on how best to setup my fx chain.

Also, Im pretty sure some of these pedals arent true bypass, so I'd appreciate some ideas on how best to minimise the tone sap... amp FX loop? FX Loop Box (such as a wobo,etc?) how would you set it up?

These are the pedals:

EBS Multicomp (compressor)
MXR M80+ DI (preamp/Distortion)
Boss CE-2B Bass Chorus
Ibanez Tonelok PH-7 (Phaser)
DOD fx25 (Env. Filter)
DOD (fx94?) Sampler/Delay

Behringer BEQ700 (EQ) <- Unsure if it'll be in the fx chain...

The amp is a Mark Bass Little Mark F-Series (got an fx loop too)

How'd your deals with me go?

Great to do business with you mate.
Fast delivery, good comms.

Cheers,

Dave.

[quote name='EdwardHimself' post='25557' date='Jul 1 2007, 11:37 AM']what an idiot! Trading an esh for an olp MM[/quote]

well, He's just not one of those guys that would bother putting in the restoration work that the Esh required,
And he liked the sound of my OLP to turn it into a fretless.

ARGH, does it look better now or in its gothic state?

hmmm, that looks interesting...

by the link it looks like a DIY Bass Cab...

so whats the story with this "Bill Fitzmaurice" fellow? I can detect some reverence in your statements

And just "what" is "that" finn?

Looks like some really old amp with a strange homebrew(?) cab... interesting design.

I've got one of those warwick 5 instrument stands, thats where I keep the ones that I use the most.
the others I have them in their cases, upright in a perfectly sized section of the wardrobe.

that saves money too, as you dont have to buy an xmas tree, just put the presies under the rack

[quote name='MikeB' post='20215' date='Jun 19 2007, 02:52 PM']I used to have a MM Stingray, sold it and now play Mexican Jazz similar to yours. Actually prefer this to the Stingray so don't assume the Stingray is better without making sure![/quote]

+1

Nothing wrong with Mexi Jazzes...

I think people sometimes confuse lack of quality control with lack of quality.

Not the same thing... My Mexi Classic 60's can kick it up there with the rest of the recent MIAs

Nice Jazz mate

[quote name='BigRedX' post='22388' date='Jun 23 2007, 05:08 PM']That Esh looks tasty!

Any chance of some more pics? Headstock looks interesting...[/quote]

[quote name='silverfoxnik' post='22144' date='Jun 22 2007, 09:54 PM']Nice looking basses!

How do you find the MTD like for sound and playability? I had the passive model and it played great but the stock p/ups weren't too good. Great neck and a fantastic B' string!

Nik[/quote]

Well, I absolutely love the neck. its nice and wide, but with a thin profile. very confortable for slap,etc, not cramped at all.
I wouldnt know about the original electronics, as I already got this one with the SD stuff.

Sounds great with it. it has a little of the musicman vibe, lots of low end, with crisp highs.

I've only got it recently, so cant go too much in depth about it yet

Something seriously wrong with that picture... that wouldnt be a customshop, at least the pickguard wouldnt be, it looks too much like someone's rough sketch... or the pup combo...

Even if that is "vintage", Vintage basses lose a lot of their value the further away they are from their original state.

These are my babies:

[b]Fender Jazz Bass "Classic 60's" (Custom)[/b]
My first "real bass"... tried to sell it a bunch of times when gassing for other gear, but I'm too sentimentally attached to it, simply cant follow through with it. Its got custom designed pups, Vol-BLEND-Tone and a Schaller 2000 Bridge


[b]Esh Stinger V "Real Gothic" (Custom)[/b]
This bass has history. used to be used on tours by my (ex)bass prof, in Portugal's most wellknown metal band "Moonspell".
It was all beat up and cobwebbed in the corner, when jokingly, I offered my olp mm2 for trade, and the guy accepted.
The black finish has been stripped, the Esh-tronics replaced with an Artec 3Band preamp. It's my main bass.


[b]MTD Kingston 5 (Custom)[/b]
This is my latest acquisition, it came with a Seymour Duncan Basslines SMD-5B Pickup and a STC-3M3 & STC-3M4 preamp (9-36v). It also has a coil tap 3way mini-switch.

ok, now this is something I wanted to do for kicks, as I have 2 small neon tubes (from PC tuning,etc) hanging around the house...

though I'd like to go a little further... but I dont know how.

The idea is to make the neons react (shifting in intensity) to the input level (clipping?) so that it would get more intense on harder picked notes and softer on lightly picked ones.

Does anyone have any Idea of how to do this?

[quote name='ShaunB' post='10932' date='Jun 2 2007, 10:05 AM']Hi OG,

...thanks for the pdf - I'll take a gander. From my readings (at least 10 times through the manual now - very un-manly!) I think I need to create my own patches which are simply just Chorus, or Phaser etc. But then if you want the auto-wah you have to click the pre-set patch pedals and hunt up and down - it really must be easier...

Self-help group? Count me in! (is there tea and biscuits?)

...it all started when the guitarists said, "so, who's gonna play bass?" doctor...



Let me know when you get the box... it is a sturdy, but rather expensive tuner...[/quote]


What I've done is change its mode so that within the patch, I can have each of the pedals assigned to a certain effect toggle ie.:

Compressor - Distortion - Chorus - Bypass // WAH

say I want (for a different song for example) the same kind of setup but with a diferent distortion and phaser instead of chorus.

I copy the existing patch over to the next (overwriting the existing crappy user patch) and edit each pedal setting as I want it.
resave over the same (new) patch again.

Over all, there's a few things to mind...

The preamp/sim section to me is for small adjustments only if you go to a basshead from there... it can easily sound crappy when boosted.

Usually I dont even use anything from the preamp/sim section. just the fx, and I EQ at my AMP.

there's also a trick on the manual to setting it to true-bypass, though I dont know exactly how "true" that is, never tried it.

Also, the master pot on the back shouldnt go over the white mark... abuse it and get a nasty buzz sound.
which you can control with the Noisegate.

something important too is the sequence of pedals/FX that can be edited through the MAster settings button (IIRC).

Usually you'd want to heat up the fretboard a little with a hot air gun, to facilitate the removal of the frets without chipping.

[quote name='TheRev' post='16271' date='Jun 12 2007, 03:00 PM']I've put EMG pickups and EQ on one of my basses running on 18v. It certainly seems to have boosted the output - it's now on a par with my 9v MM Sterling![/quote]

Just the output? no change in bass "voice"?

I started out as a Passive jazz player.

eventually got into the active basses, but always 9v preamps...

I'm looking at buying another active bass, and I was amazed when the guy I'm going to buy it from told me that I can use UP to 4 9v Batteries, so a total of 36v!!!



Has anyone had any experience with preamps of the kind?

what is the real difference? just volume? are there any sort of guidelines for using these preamps?

I've pulled the trigger on a "Keytone" acoustic bass that was about 60£ looks a lot like the original poster's bass.
I had it a total of 5 days. it went on sale 1 day after it arrived. Absolute C%#P. the neck was all warped, shocking fretwork, the only thing that was nice about it is that it hadnt fallen part yet, and it was a nice blueburst.
It was mailed to me inside an acoustic GUITAR gigbag (forced in by the look of it) and covered with 2 carboard acoustic bass boxes..

I wasnt happy, but at least I ended up selling it, without hiding any of its problems, for more than I bought it for. lol.