Beedster

Hi guys

Many thanks for the above. A few more details:

[list]
[*]I'm not looking to recoup the investment! The funding for the project is going to come either from downsizing our current property (we live in the centre of town and are hopefully moving to a cheaper but larger property in the country), or from an interest-free loan that is likely available to me. Either way, this isn't a short-term project, but I want to be fully prepared to start the ball rolling in the right direction as and when possible. £20k is ball-park, but about what I believe is reasonable to do a decent job and provide me with what I will need in the long term. I anticipate this not simply covering the infrastructure (air-con, soundproofing etc), but also everything from the desk, to mics, cables and software (and depending on how things go, a half decent piano). If feasible/practical, I'd also like to start building up the necessary hardware now, i.e., if the right desk came up at the right price, I'd seriously consider buying it even though I may not have a studio in which to install it for another 12 months.
[*]Unless we find a house with a substantial basement, I'll certainly be looking to situate the studio in an out building, and not in a room in the house. I'd be keen to know your thoughts on this also (pros/cons). I'm specifically looking at properties with such outbuildings and don't anticipate having to build my own.
[*]The studio is going to be mainly for my own use, largely to record my band at relatively low volumes. I would like to be able to rehearse in the space, and to record, albeit roughly, on an impromptu basis when needed (i.e., with relatively little hassle setting up, micing etc). If I record other musicians or bands, it'll likely be similar, i.e., low-moderate volume, often involving acoustic instruments (piano, upright bass, percussion etc). I'll not be recording rock/metal etc, this isn't suggesting I don't like rock or metal, it's just that we don't play it and it's not where my enthusiasms or skills lie in terms of recording. I assume that these factors might have a bearing on the degree of sound-proofing/baffling etc required?
[*]I'll be recording to software not to tape. Much as I love the vibe of the latter, I think that going forwards the former is not only going to be more practical, but substantially cheaper. I think it's also going to allow far more versatility and adaptability.
[*]I'm really not sure yet just what sort of acoustic I'm looking for, clinical almost anechoic or something with a little more character. I love the idea of a room that has a character that almost suits the vibe of the band, and one which we will learn to use almost as an instrument. I read a hell of a lot of music history and am fascinated by the stories of bands such as the Stones recording Exile in Richards' basement, or Tom Waits getting p****d off with the 'cleanness' of the studio and consequently recording the entire album, complete with extraneous aircraft engines and police sirens, in the store room next door. OK, extreme examples, and I'll be able to vary the acoustic as and when needed via a variety of methods, but I'm really interested to hear your thoughts on this. Just to clarify, we haven't even found the space/building yet, so nothing concrete will be decided until we know things such as size/shape, building materials etc.
[*]I studied electronic music technology - most of the content of which was related to acoustics, recording theory and recording technology - for three years, but this was almost 25 years ago! So, although I've always been in and around music, I think I'll need some refreshing and would be interested in anyone knows of any appropriate courses/programmes that might be worth my enrolling on whilst I get the ball rolling. I'd also be keen to hear your book recommendations?
[/list]

Think that's all I can think of for the time being

Cheers

Chris

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='910799' date='Jul 30 2010, 11:01 PM']Ouch! Original description does say Mahogany, so I suppose I'd expected (as you did) that it didn't mean Mahogany 'painted black'.

Shame as on face value it looked a good deal. [/quote]

Plus the fact the seller described it as a 'mahogany beauty' in the title above!

[quote name='CyberBass' post='910798' date='Jul 30 2010, 10:59 PM']Chris,
For £20k you should be able to have a good set up, check out my studio equipment etc. Initially done on a similar budget. Any questions don't hesitate to contact me. My website is www.barkingdogstudios.co.uk

Regards
ade[/quote]

Thanks Ade, will do

Chris

[quote name='Mateybass' post='910898' date='Jul 31 2010, 03:30 AM']Which model Aria do you have?[/quote]

The SWB with single (piezo) pickup

C

I bought this recently [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170520764935&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_500wt_1154"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...T#ht_500wt_1154[/url]. Bit of a risk but would like to play with action on my DB and it seemed the simplest method. I'll keep you posted

C

[quote name='MIJ-VI' post='910769' date='Jul 30 2010, 10:23 PM']Some reading...

Recording 101 - collection of articles
[url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=243949"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=243949[/url]

Recording Gear and Equipment FAQ
[url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=108890"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=108890[/url][/quote]

Thanks dude, a lot of reading fro a Friday night! I'll get into it over the weekend

Chris

[quote name='Happy Jack' post='910772' date='Jul 30 2010, 10:26 PM']Buying & selling is NOT the answer! You get a short-term "fix" of inspiration (wow, this bass sounds fantastic, must play more) but once you get used to the new bass that soon fades.

Either try a different variant of the instrument (as Chris recommends above) or focus on getting your playing out of that rut.

There's a hundred ways to tackle that issue, but the easiest and cheapest is to plug your iPod or equivalent into your PA, hit the [i]random play [/i]button, and then just play along with whatever comes up next.

I do this all the time. In any 30-minute session I may find myself playing ZZ Top, Dusty Springfield, Johnny Cash, The Beatles, and Mike Oldfield.

Tonight's unexpected bonus? [i]They Don't Know About Us[/i] by Kirsty MacColl - great song, very satisfying bassline.[/quote]

That's good advice

C

A month on and the DB is getting played loads, the EUB a bit, the fretless very occasionally, the fretted, well, never...

See [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=93952&hl="]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=93952&hl=[/url]

Buy an upright, no joke, it's changed my views on bass. My electric playing has also evolved significantly as a result

C

Given how great the bass sounds unplugged and how much of this is lost amplified, I'm guessing the stock PUP and preamp are pretty mediocre. I'm talking to John East re a preamp, but has anyone got any PUP suggestions?

Thanks

Chris

Substitute, some dodgy social club, late '70s. I was playing a Hofner semi through a 15w amp. I might as well have not been there!

My dream as long as I can remember has been to set up a studio at my house. There's the possibility that it could now happen. I'm keen to know what you experts out there think I need. Although this is going to be largely to record my own stuff (with the band that is), I will also want to use it commercially as well. Although the budget situation is not concrete, I think £20k is realistic at this point.

All experience, opinion and perspectives gratefully received

Chris

[quote name='Clarky' post='910660' date='Jul 30 2010, 08:44 PM']Hi Tom, I have a couple of Fender basses with truss rod adjustment at that end - a 70 reissue P bass and my 1972 P bass. Its actually very much trial and error and depends whether there is any form of slot at the edge of the pickguard. If there is (like on my 72), I am slightly lazy and loosen the rear plate screws (all of this being done sat on the bed, so no hard surfaces), having loosened the strings a few full tuner turns first. This usually exposes enough of the truss rod screw, I adjust this while supporting the neck with my other hand. Unless the neck is really out of whack a 1/4 turn is usually plenty. Then screw back and leave it half an hour and test. I think clamping everything is just making life difficult for yourself as these are hardy instruments. Unscientific but it has always worked with me.

If there is no pickguard slot (like on my 70 RI) its harder as the entire neck needs removing. I once screwed up here on an earlier bass by taking the neck on and off so much that I stripped the neck plate screws and ended up with the usual stuff-screwholes-with-toothpick solution! Unless the truss rod screw is especially tight and needs tightening further (not necessarily a good sign) you should have enough strength in your arm to support the neck again while turning the truss rod adjuster screw with screwdriver. The bed is your friend here in my humble opinion![/quote]

Mostly agree, but even on basses with no pickguard slot, you can usually do it without completely removing the neck. Undo the back screws more than the front screws, tilt the neck up, use a good quality screwdriver to turn it no more than 90 degrees, replace, and as Clarky says, it's trial and error from there, although make sure you leave it at least 24 hours to settle before re-adjusting

C

[quote name='Thornybank' post='910611' date='Jul 30 2010, 08:06 PM']Well, it arrived.

Old crap black paint job - not mentioned in the description....
Ports full of spider webs and dust.
Grill not torn, but no Logo plate nor "EV Loaded" plate.

So I guess the condition rating goes:

Mint, Near Mint, Excellent, Very Fine, Fine, Very Good, [u][b]Good[/b][/u], Poor

Speaker seems OK, though haven't pushed it.

Shoulda waited for pics - but been looking for an extension to put under the combo, so pounced.
Not stage worthy as-is, but maybe a good sand a repaint will help...?[/quote]

Feedback forum for that one mate. Disappointed for you

C

[quote name='Clarky' post='910595' date='Jul 30 2010, 07:55 PM']How about this for customer service? I spoke to Mark at BassDirect on Tuesday, who arranged shipping labels etc. By Wednesday I had posted the faulty head back to TC in Denmark and today the replacement arrived direct from TC. Three days to sort the whole matter!

Thanks Mark and amazingly speedy service from TC Electronic [/quote]

Great news Clarky, label your cables mate

[quote name='steve-soar' post='910552' date='Jul 30 2010, 07:17 PM']No problems here.
[/quote]

Lovely

[quote name='dannybuoy' post='910563' date='Jul 30 2010, 07:28 PM']I'll take Fralin and Duncan - I was trying to decide which to get and now I can try both and flip one! PM incoming...[/quote]

Replied mate, SD and Fralin now sold

C

I’m getting rid of a lot of stuff I bought recently with the intention of building a back-up Precision that’s no longer happening. There’s a few other things also.

[u][b]Precision/Jazz parts[/b][/u]

Lindy Fralin Precision PUP (normal winding as at [url="http://www.fralinpickups.com/bass.asp)"]http://www.fralinpickups.com/bass.asp)[/url]. As good as it gets in terms of P-PUPs: SOLD

Seymour Duncan SPB-1, classic 60’s Precision tones (http://www.seymourduncan.com/products/basslines/vintage-1/spb1_vintage_fo/): SOLD

1984 (ish) MIA Fender Precision PUP (Fullerton; grey bottom): SOLD

1988 Fender (MIJ) neck. B-width, rosewood board. Bought from Delberthot (link at [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=84017&hl=)"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=84017&hl=)[/url]. No tuners, but string tree/nut etc are all there and good. It’s a lovely neck. The neck also has FretFX leds which are really good but can be removed in a few seconds if you’d rather not have them (apparently they can’t be re-used on another bass although FretFX would say that! Either way, I haven’t factored them into the price). £150 posted SOLD

[b][u]1971 Fender Precision/Jazz tuners [/u][/b](these are from my ‘71 fretless, I’m replacing them with vintage reverse tuners). Apologies for the steep price but still a whole lot cheaper than eBay: £150 posted

Fender Precision PUP and bridge covers: SOLD

[u][b]And a few other things[/b][/u]

Mesa Boogie Walkabout 300 (head) carry bag (http://mesa.stores.yahoo.net/bag-walkabout.html): £25 posted SOLD

Boschma 2u rack case. The dog’s danglies of rack cases (http://www.boschmacases.com/html/music2uherack.html): SOLD

EH nano Doctor Q envelop follower £25 posted SOLD

Chris

My 1980 'ray had the G problem but you just learn to live with it. Depending on your thoughts on originality, an East Stingray-like pre-amp will no doubt move the string balance in the right direction.

Pre EB 'ray is to my mind not far off a pre-CBS Precision, i.e., magical. Go for it

C

[quote name='BB2000' post='910376' date='Jul 30 2010, 03:54 PM']Oh, sod ebay.

£95 plus delivery.

Is the audere out of fashion this month - have I been guilty of the bassist's equivalent of wearing flared jeans and an afro hairdo by using one?[/quote]

Not at all John, the Audere is a great pre-amp, certainly better than a most Jazz pre-amps and almost as good at the J-Retro. If it has an advantage over the J-Retro it's the preset switches which allow you to switch from, for example, a quite funky jazzy tone to a classic 60's thump with one click. It really suits players in function/covers/tribute bands who might need to move between different bass sounds in a very short time with no messing about or guesswork.

Should add that John's a 100% top guy to deal with folks so you can buy this with confidence

Chris

Just ordered one from Lemur Music at half the UK price including shipping from the USA, so now sorted, Many thanks for the link in info chrkelly

C

Dude, put it on consignment at V&R, or trade it with them for something you either want or that's easier to sell here. It's an awesome bass, but as you;re finding, fretless Precisions are something of an acquired taste compared to their Jazz or 'ray counterparts. I'd love to have it for sure, but I have what I consider to be the perfect fretless Precision, and even I can't justify two. Alternatively, refer to my previous PM re eBay

Good luck either way

C

[quote name='chrkelly' post='909986' date='Jul 30 2010, 10:22 AM']It's only controversial in the way that every luthier has different beliefs and ways of doing things. He's just the only person whose published his. My view is good tone is pointless if you can't hear it! It's useful for gaining understanding of how different parameters affect the sound but I personally wouldn't use it as a manual to do work on my own basses. I'd leave that to a skilled professional. If I had a cheap bass that I didn't mind ballsing up though I might be tempted to have a go. The book also covers a lot of open heart surgery and complex repairs that you'd never dream of attempting yourself.[/quote]

Lovely, that's what I was hoping. Thanks for the reply

C

PS I will categorically not being doing anything myself!

[quote name='chrkelly' post='909934' date='Jul 30 2010, 09:39 AM']Great book but you're not getting mine Some very interesting stuff that gives you a better understanding of how the instrument works, and just how skilled your luthier is when he works on your bass. I got mine from www.lemurmusic.com in the states when they had a sale on and the pound was stronger. It'll probably still be cheaper than the UK now though.[/quote]

LOL, fair enough, and thanks for the link, that's 50% cheaper than I've found it here. Seems quite a controversial book, especially in terms of his definition of 'optimum sound', which the author (apparently) sees in terms of volume as opposed to tone. Do you think it's useful in terms of guiding setup for tone?

Cheers

Chris