
Al Heeley
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Work started on cutting the neck and head profile. The extra length of channel I stupidly routed for the truss rod has been filled with a strip of rosewood left over from trimming the Ricky fingerboard to size.
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Progress started on the neck. Maple blocks glued together with a thin light wood veneer centre stripe to match the body. Here the truss rod channel has been routed, truss rod installed and the wood fillet inserted over the top and and planed flat. On previous builds I have really struggled to get a nice neat trim fillet after mucking about with planes and sanders. This time I used a rasp and surform and got it flush and smooth in about 30 seconds. Marvellous! Never neglect those little hand tools, these silly little jobs can be a real pain with the big power tools and a small surform stands far less chance of taking nasty chunks out of your neck.
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A little more progress on the body. Back edges rounded over, control cavity routed, sunken recess made in the tail cut for locking Neutrik jackplug. Since I seem to have got a bit of a Dingwall thing going here, I thought I'd make use of some of their really cool little design details.
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Started work on the body. Here's the shape copied onto Simo's Sapele, I sandwiched a thin veneer of white wood into the join, which adds a nice centre-line mark and also helps to hide any of my bad jointing. Here's the basic body shape jigsawed out, sanded smooth and some countouring started.
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Build Diary: Five String Fanned Fret Bass with pre-amp I want to put together a fanned-fret 5-string, low E to high C, 34.5" scale for the low E up to 32.5" scale for the C. 46mm nut, some wood left over from previous builds include some nice sawn and planed maple for a bolt-on neck, and a mahogany-zebrano sandwich body. Here's first plan sketch
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lots of different Eden gear for sale
Al Heeley replied to grimbeaver's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
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SOLD: Marshall 6101 30th anniversary + extn cab
Al Heeley replied to Al Heeley's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
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Here's the summary of choices I thought most viable in the budget for my upgrade: [b]Amps[/b] 1) Hartke 3500A head or LH500 head 2) Ashdown Mag 300 Evo II head 3) Gallien Krueger Backline 600 head 4) Warwick ProFet 3.2 head 5) Marshall 4210 450W 2 x 10 combo 6) Peavey Toiur 450 head [b]cabs[/b] 1) Hartke VX210/VX115 or Hartke VX410 2) Hartke 210XL, 115XL 3) Ashdown 210/115/410 cabs 4) GK 210/115/410 cabs 5) Marshall 115 extension cab to go with the 4210 combo 6) Warwick cab: 210 and / or 115 - a bit expensive for my budget 7) Peavey 410 cab - a bit expensive and very heavy to lug about This is the stuff i will be trying to demo in the holiday period to see if I can narrow the choices down.
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Whoa! out of order, Munkee, chill out and read this thread: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=34586"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=34586[/url] I'm nearly at the point of choosing Hartke LH500 and a Hartke 4 x 10 VX head, but I've not heard them yet, they just seem to have a reasonbly good rep, have the right spec and price range. there's a lot of choice, which I found out, in this price bracket but don't get frustrated when people post back stuff you don't want to hear.
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Finnbass.com (you have to register to ebter the forums), but sounds like the Philips 5751 will do anything asked of it;)
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OK, you all know I'm in the same dilemna. Best advice is identify a great bass tone that really moves you and check out the gear used to obtain it. Sadly for me my all time hero is Geddy Lee, he has sublime tone, I have a jazz bass but that means my back line is going to have to be three bloody Hotpoint washing machines. that's me buggered. Off to Comet at the weekend. [url="http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=AuMLIHatC9E&feature=related"]http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=AuMLIHatC9E&...feature=related[/url]
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Can I interest you in my marshall Bass State combo up for sale in the classifieds here? It's a great workhorse amp with versatile tones from rock to slap and a deep warm jazz blues tone, 150W, 1 x 15 speaker. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=34623"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=34623[/url] this will serve you well while you are settling into your new career path.
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Hold on a minute! 5751 valves: Tube site#1:[quote]If you want to reduce the gain of your amp so you can reach that creamy tone without blowing the windows out, then this is THE tube to get. Fully interchangeable with a 12AX7 tube, the Philips 5751 will allow you to drive the power stage harder with less volume. Compared to the Sovtek 5751, the JAN Philips 5751 has a smoother response that is the ideal way to get the tone you are looking for.[/quote] Tube site#2:[quote]The Philips 5751 is a superbly warm and rich sounding 5751 type. The valve has a lower amplification of 70 mu as opposed to a 100 mu of a ECC83/12AX7. This makes it harder for the valve to distort and therefore an ideal choice when the best clean sound is required. The Philips 5751 is a great valve to use in Fender Hot rod series of amplifiers as it tames the fuzzy more drive setting.It also works well in the front end of any amplifier if gain reduction and clarity are your aims. It has more midrange and less top end than The G.E 5751 which also makes it the ideal choice for blues and harmonica players.[/quote] Therefore if you want to overdrive better at lower gain, the Philips 5751 tube is ideal. However, if you are looking for a cleaner sound at greater volume before breaking into distortion, the Philips 5751 is the perfect choice . Despite this, the LH500 is certainly on my shortlist for a new rig adn it's good to read such a positive review.
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I guess its easier to twiddle the knobs when they'r all lined up the same height. Can't see a problem with a solid state amp head whatever orientation. I'd be a little worried about valve amp tubes rattling themselves loose if they are not vertical, but that is pure conjecture on my part.
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This is solid advice, Ferrert - thanks. I will spend a couple of days holiday between Xmas and new year touring round the music shops of Manchester and Leeds to try as many different heads and cabs as possible, accompanied by my critically-eared lead guitar buddy. Hopefully this will then narrow down the attractive options and I can get myself a new rig sorted early in the new year. In the meantime, I have 2 marshall amps up for sale and would have a far bigger budget to play with for the new rig if any kind person would be interested in investing in my immaculate 6101 30th anniversary stack or the solid workhorse MB150 bass combo
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Not bass but lead - apologies if in the wrong forum. Sadly now up for sale: my Marshall limited edition 30th anniversary amp (6101) plus matching extension cab in blue tolex. [url="http://www.marshallamps.com/heritage/anniversary/30_anniversary.asp"]http://www.marshallamps.com/heritage/anniv...anniversary.asp[/url] A very special amp out of Jim Marshall's stable back in 1992. Powered by 4 x EL34 valves (old Fender stock, sshhh!) and 7 valve pre-amp stage (12AX7) In immaculate condition, limited edition blue tolex with matching 200W rated 6912 cabinet. Features 3 channels, footswitchable via midi: Channel 1: Clean bright gain, something of a first for marshall to deliver such a clear channel Channel 2: Crunch, with 2 toggle switches to run through all the classic Marshall sounds over 30 years, this channel alone has 3 separate gain levels to alter the tone and dynamics of the overdrive. This will give you the characteristic sounds of a JTM45 thru '59SLP to JCM800 to JCM900 amps. Channel 3: Lead, really high gain with gain boost switch. Each channel has its own set of tone controls, bass, mid and treble. Input features High & low compensation to best match the pickups of the guitar used. Channel 1 features a bright and a mid-shift switch Channel 2 has the two overdrive mode buttons A-B and B-C Channel 3 has gain boost and contour switches. Master volume, presence and effeects loop level complete the front panel. Rear panel: Pentode - triode switch plus High - Low power setting, these enable the amp to reduce its power rating from 100W down to 50 or 25W accordingly. Be warned - this little amp is a very loud beasty. 8ohm-4ohm switch for connecting extension cab Damping select - High/Auto/Low DI out with its own trim level Effects send and return sockets with separate trims for channel 1 and 2 send level, also series/parallel switch for FX loop Midi in and footswitch in completes the rear panel. Really a huge amount of features put into this little package, this is a superb amp that I'm not parting with lightly. Included is the 3-channel Marshall channel switch footswitch. All the pots have been serviced recently, a couple of the volume pots were getting a little 'scratchy' which is always the problem when it's not used very regularly. All in all you get a slice of Marshall history in a superbly versatile little amp that packs a huge pwerful punch yet doesn't take up one wall of your room. All the different channel 2 crunch modes are what does it for me, plus you get very close to a fender clean bright tone, and access to the massive lean gain on channel 3. In all these modes there is a transparency to the tone that you only get from really good amps; despite being driven really hard the tone still carries the signature of your own guitar. It is in immaculate condition and sadly never gets played these days. Needs a new loving home. If you need any more opinions about this amazing little amp, have a look through the Harmony central reviews: [url="http://reviews.harmony-central.com/reviews/Guitar+Amp/product/Marshall/6101+30th+Anniversary/10/1"]http://reviews.harmony-central.com/reviews...nniversary/10/1[/url] I'm not sure what this is worth now, it cost me quite a lot of money 12 yeqars ago and I'm very fond of it. Make me a sensible offer if you're interested, I would hope in excess of £750 for the package.
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[quote name='bass_ferret' post='360122' date='Dec 21 2008, 11:42 AM']Wouldn't we all. How is having 2 2x10's less flexible than having a 2x10 and 1x15? Dont forget that 1x15's are usually bigger than 2x10's.[/quote] Well if you have 2 cabs the same, then you have 2 options: 1) Use one cab 2) use both cabs If one cab is a 2 x 10 and one cab is a 1 x 15 I'm presuming there would be some defference in tonal quality between the two otherwise there would be no-=one bothering to make all these different sized speakers, right? So then you get 3 options: 1) Use the 2 x 10 2) use the 1 x 15 3) use them both together. Hence 50% more options depending on the sound you want and the venue. Am I missing something here? I get Alex's point about the adding/subtracting between different cabs but his comparison about comparing his very expensive 15" cab to any other 4 x 10 is not that valid, what I have to find out is the mixing of same manufacturer same product range 10's and 15's to see if their combination of 10's and 15's together is better or worse than adding 2 identical cabs the same. Sadly the only true test is when the rig is set up with the band for a practice at gig volume. You can never get a good feel for it in a shop but at least you can hope for some approximation.
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[quote name='bass_ferret' post='359726' date='Dec 20 2008, 05:17 PM']I cant get my head round why you dont seem to understand that 2 2x10's is the same as a 4x10 [/quote]Um, I must have missed that bit, where did i say that? I was interested in one 2 x 10 cab together with one 1 x 15 cab as a more flexible option to having one 4 x 10 cab. plus side: you can vary your setup according to venue, you get to run two cabs at 4 ohms, you can cart each one about easier down side: a 210 + a 115 are more expensive that one 4 x 10 from same mfr range. Most 410's run at 8 ohms so you're not getting your full power rating out of the head. Due to budget I'd rather go for a single 410 than two 210's, but best of all I'd like a 15" and two 10"'s. I'd also like a bigger budget.
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Not too many 4 Ohm 4 x 10 cabs to choose from unless you get into much bigger money. Most of the mainstream mass produced (therefore affordable on my budget) seem to be straight 410 8 ohm cabs. Same goes for 2 x 12 cabs which are everywhere for lead guitar amps but very limited choice for bass. I see GK do one but it's a lot of money. This surprises me as I'd thought bass would benefit more from a 2 x 12 compared to a 2 x 10. I'm presuming a 2 x 12 guitar cab would not take too kindly to high power low frequencies forcing through it...? Another good reason for spending more on 2 cabs (210 + 115) is you can drive your head at 4 Ohms therefore bigger wattage, and you also gain the flexibility of choosing one of the cabs for smaller venues when you're not needing so much volume.