caitlin

I don't gig, because I can't play. I was using a zoom b1x4 but my headphones were a bit flubby down the low end, especially on the 5 and the price was too good so

2 hours ago, markoire said:

The drummer in my band uses 

https://www.dv247.com/en_GB/GBP/Fame-DD-ONE-XT-Simon-Phillips-E-Drum-Set/art-DRU0038567-000?campaign=GShopping/GB&ProgramUUID=5G_AqJarZwoAAAFl0FZyjI8V&gclid=Cj0KCQiA6Or_BRC_ARIsAPzuer9yqoqchJr9cOleZqv7FPYSCB7dv55CDO17fbOwtZ1DW6-QNUx72BEaAu_MEALw_wcB

He runs it through the addictive drums software. I thought he was crazy to buy it, and thought it’ll never sound as good as an acoustic kit. How wrong i was! Unless you have some awesome mics ( and know how to use them!), and a fabulous space to record them, you will never get your drums sounding as professional as a set up similar to above

see attachment for sound quality. If you didn’t know, you wouldn’t know 😂 

In A Hole - GW mix #2 - 21:09:2019, 17.04.m4a 5.98 MB · 1 download

That could be a pretty good shout actually. That thing looks like it has decent drums and a hathat controller that understands up and down. One of the things I love about my 30KV is that the hi-hat is really 'real' feeling. everyone goes on about snare drums but there's LOADS of movement and character in the hihat. What are the internal sounds like though, i have a controller keyboard which is really really nice but it's still a pain in the HOLE having to boot a computer to load a sample dooble to actually hear it. I think there's something to be said for sitting down and going straight for it

sigh, the nostalgia hurts. Best of luck on your search binky_bass!

1 minute ago, binky_bass said:

What do people think of this set-up? Any good for the price?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/roland-electronic-drum-kit-/265004707812?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Bit old, not sure I'd be BOUNCING for less than a TD20 brain. no hihat, just a bouncy rubber pad.

what's your timescale, I'm a skinflint so i stick a saved search in ebay and steal the good one that eventually turns up that's in price

I got my TD30 because I couldn't afford the TD50

I spent a year trying to work out how to build a sound proof studio either in my house or in my garden and after accepting that it was either impossibly expensive or would ultimately make my house collapse, or would spring a leak behind 4 layers of green glued sheet rock if built outside.

Given that the TD30 was 1/10 of the cost of TRYING to play my real kit on a shoestring it seemed a no brainer, as Beedster says there's no substitute for real drums, but I have not regretted getting the roland kit for a MOMENT. Of course it's my 'main' instrument so that possibly changes my investment in it.

Get an acoustic kit, you get a lot more for your money

All the stuff on ebay is local pickup the VOLUME of boxes that a TD30-KV comes in is quite something.

I'm a drummer, a real one 😱 The ONLY electric kit I've ever had that didn't BEND under normal use is a Roland TD-30KV

Anything that doesn't have a real rack and real stands is a bit of a challenge I'd say. Same as with a bass probably, get the best you can in your budget to avoid disappointment.

I'm mental though, in fairness. 2001 it was when I built my own e-drums out of bits from maplins and an alesis DM5; it even *worked*.

49 minutes ago, binky_bass said:

This is a TourTech TT12S kit, so it is a super basic kit where the pedals are indeed beaterless, and I got the second pedal for free from a friend so I'm trying to do this in the cheapest way possible! 

I have a few various connectors, but the Chinese finger trap style dual female connect i have I think only operates with non-TRS cables as I can't get a sound from the kit when that connect it in play. 

I've asked Lynx Cables (a decent custom cable company in the UK) to quote me for a single TRS female to dual male TRS outs with one being 3ft and one being 1ft, this in theory should give the reach I need and do the job... hopefully! We shall see!!

can you solder? making cables is really easy if you have an iron. a few quid of bits from the usual internet scumbacks or just re-end a guitar cable.
if cheap is the name of the game, splicing into the existing wires should be highly possible.

the alesis trigger pedals seems to be a beater-less design, so there's not a 'pad' you can stick a double pedal on.

The exact cable in your picture *should* work. Bass drums are a single zone single trigger so they only need two wires to trigger.

the ring and sleeve of a stereo connector should short together in the socket and all you need is the kick pads in parallel with each other and the brain won't know any difference between each pedal, it'll still believe it has one.

The only effect to watch for is fast playing might make the brain start 'denoising' multiple hits on the assumption it's a single trigger vibrating and double triggering.

Stick that splitter into one kick and use a male to female adapter or M2F extension cable to the other pedal.

4 hours ago, Trueno said:

I’ve played most of my gigs on fretless, but I’ve now moved on to fretted/short scale... it’s an age thing.

My one tip is... practice in the dark. I started off relying on my eyes too much... an unlined fretless but with side dots. First gig I did under stage lights and the side dots disappeared. Much better to develop your ears and your touch anyway.

I have three levels of inonation errors:

1- only I noticed

2- the band notice

3- the audience notice

If you can keep to 1 with an occasional 2 then that’s a result.

what about 1.5 The band are too polite to say they noticed and 2.5 the band notice and are really critical about it

thread stealing, just to check, @philparker it's a 4 string not a 5, right? so i can crawl back under my rock rather than pestering you about it?

I got my first fretless a couple of months ago, and had similar fears. In fact, coming from the drums I think I have really terrible pitch sense, but I've found fretless easier than I *imagined*; I'm also playing unlined, just side dots.

I find I can hear when it's 'off' from the beating, or the angry cat sounds and rolling my finger is often enough to bring the note in.

I think it's a great idea to stay off the slides and the vibrato as much as possible because that doesn't help with accurate stopping and getting used to the way the 'notes' get closer up the dusty end is super important. She says having spent a week tabbing out 'Flight of the Cosmic Hippo' which is of course a total slide-festival.

I've found it useful to 'find octaves' all over the neck, you can SUPER hear whether they're 'in' or 'out' and they help with knowing where the edges of 'boxes' or whatever are and how they shrink as they go up the neck.

I'm sure people who can play will have better advice, but as someone learning the same those are my thinks.

2 minutes ago, EBS_freak said:

The ZS10s will do the lows for you for now as you save up for something more flash.

What would we collectively consider 'more flash' if we were to imagine I wasn't skint right now? Because just possibly I'm not.

my sennies are breaking up all over the place with my B string, do we know if the zs10s will comfortably track those lows? I'm driving hard for some wooten and dunno whether to do this cheap IEM thing, or find some posh cans.

How do I get my flubs without the flapping?

2 hours ago, Skybone said:

Well, boyo is a very happy bunny, already got me to buy some more sticks (he's paid for them thankfully!).

And set up in the Conservatory not in his room.

probably a crime for a bass message board but PIIIICCCSSSS!!!

11 minutes ago, CameronJ said:

Funnily, I was never taught this (I’m 99% self-taught) but I always avoid open strings if possible. Unless using open strings makes playing the line significantly easier than fretting everything...but that’s not very often.

I LOVE those bouncy basslines that use an open as a sort of root or drone or whatever, the one that comes to mind is 'hey man, nice shot' by Filter:

nice grindy intro and a wild mathy kind of chorus. This of course is a ONE string song, done by down tuning to D which you couldn't play on a standard BEADG 5 anyway, so why do i bring it up here, oh yeh... open strings. I hate em, except for this.

I love my self built 5 string and did a sort of 'awww' when i realised today's impossible transcription challenge started with the first note below the lowest E on my fretless 4... i had a horrible feeling I might 'need' a fretless 5 but happily, for TODAY at least, I could suck up downtuning the E to a D and that got the low I did need.

I hate open strings AND needing to retune so I guess that's my problem isn't it?

That's a very kind offer, but don't worry. I'm so sorry I'm window shopping, I don't really have space and with no gig I have no real need. It's just a great deal and a great looking rig. I hope you get a taker soon so I can get on with kicking myself for passing.

One thing about the lower end kits is that they come with a tiny rack. everything gets scrunched up in front of you and it can be a bit of a shock to move to a 'real' kit later and find everything is much further away. A bit like learning to play bass on a uke perhaps.

I'm another vote for roland with meshies if at all possible. They're much kinder on the wrists, translate to real drums much better.

When I gave up on building a sound proof room I went for a Roland TD30KV and it's aweeeesssooommmmeeeee. Huge so I can set it up the same as my accoustic kit and stuff is in the right places and it sounds fun enough to not make me want to slit my wrists as a purist

Postage to Scotland would probably be as much as the price of the rig, and I'm never actually going to play in front of other humans

well, it's NOT silent, but it is very very much quieter. Certainly now when it's plugged in the buzz *reduces* but I've almost no idea what I've changed. the wiring scheme is the same.

I did resolder a couple of things which always carries the *chance* of magically futzing the electrons a bit. I think most of the noise is now down to things being connected with JST connectors rather than being hard soldered. this because I knew stuff would need to go in and come out a few times.

I've learned basically nothing, but have a quieter bass now, which still makes bassy sounds when I wiggle the stringy bits.

I guess i should solder all the wires directly now and commit to it to see if that makes it *really* work right

Sadly when I measure from the preamp output to the ground it's showing 47K so I think it comes pre-equipped

I'll get the soldering iron hot this afternoon and try and stumble a bit further with this.

I wonder how receptive artec would be to being asked about this directly.

wellll ok then. I take it back. it is of course fine on batteries. it's PURELY because it's being fed noisy power totally against the instructions in the manual. I am categorically doing it wrong. The thing that *interests* me is why two basses can silence it, but this one can't.