Mottlefeeder

You said it weighs like a boat anchor - that isn't going to change much by taking some material off the back, and you then run the risk of it being neck heavy.

Before you put more effort into it, ask yourself, are you going to play this regularly, because you like it, or occasionally, out of guilt, because you put lots of money/effort into it?

If your only motivation is 'I've started so I must finish' then you are basically making an ornament. Advertise it and let it go.

David

3 hours ago, velvetkevorkian said:

YMMV, but if having it around is going to make you feel guilty, or you don't have the time/means to get it to a standard you're happy with, I wouldn't feel bad about stripping it for parts and chalking it up to experience.

That is my take too. I build electronic gadgets, park the ones that didn't work, and use the ones that work until making a Mk 2 is required.

Park your project for several months. If you still don't feel inclined to fix it, or don't feel you have the skills to fix it, or don't feel inclined to pay to have it fixed, strip it for parts and reuse/dispose of them.

David

PM'd re Zoom B1-4

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Jim bought a pedal from me. Paid my price, transferred the money speedily and confirmed receipt of the item.

Would happily buy from / sell to Jim again.

David

A cab with ports will perform better if it is not also leaking air from the joints, so what you may have is a sealant around the speaker, or just a speaker chassis that is a tight fit in the rebated cavity. It is unlikely to be glued in place because in addition to the eight screws, it would serve no useful purpose and would make servicing more difficult. Your repair tech may be able to confirm that.

If you have confirmed that it is faulty, you have nothing to lose by taking the screws out and hitting the rear of the chassis (or the magnet) with a mallet to break the seal.

David

This is a 4 channel (two mono mic/line in and two stereo line in) compact Mackie mixer. It is 'built like a tank' and has Onyx microphone preamps.

Each mic/line input has switchable HPF, switchable Hi-Z impedance for instruments, treble and bass controls, gain and volume controls and clipping indicators. The phantom power switch powers both mic sockets. There are no pan controls - the two channels are either hard left and hard right, or switched to mono.

Sold.

Won in a raffle, but not my kind of sound so I'm moving it on. £20 including postage to mainland UK.

Five controls - Distortion / Output level / Bass / Treble / Voice (more trebly or more bassy)

Condition - very good, Velcro'd, but original feet are still there too.

Comes with a fresh battery, but no power supply and no instructions.

Compatible with standard 9v pedal power supplies.

Well designed case using only one screw to access the battery

Will be shipped in bubble-wrap and boxed, 2nd class post.

Any questions, please ask

David

5 hours ago, ikay said:

 

I'm having trouble visualising this. Is it like the diagram below where the bootlace (red line) is tied to both the upper and lower strap buttons and the strap (blue) is connected to the bootlace some distance further in from the lower button? That would have a similar effect to having a countersunk strap button on the back of the bass which was an option offered by Dingwall at one point to reduce the long reach of the 37" scale (see second pic).

 

 

 

Yes, you've got it. However, the bootlace / red line will not be straight due to the weight of the bass - it will form a shallow inverted V with the strap fixing at the point.

David

I use A, but keep the cable ties separate from the cables when playing. When I pack up, I know how many cables to collect by the number of cable ties that I have.

David

On 26/06/2023 at 10:16, Baloney Balderdash said:

Have you actually tried this yourself, or is it a solution you just came up with off the top of your head, cause as I understand what you just wrote I can see several potential issues with this that wouldn't make it work very well in practice?

 

Yes I have used it on both a neck heavy 5-string Corvette with a light-weight swamp ash body, and on a 5-string Hohner headless, to move the fretboard two frets to the right so that it sits like a horned bass.

The only down side I found was that the bootlace makes an uside down V. But with a dark bootlace and a dark strap, that is not noticable.

I have seen advertisments for a commercial product that uses a rigid bar instead of a bootlace, and that gave me the idea.

David

Depending on how severe the neck dive is, your cheapest non-permanent fix might be to tie a black boot lace to the bridge end of the strap, and tie the boot lace ends to the existing strap buttons, so the strap end is behind the bass. It has the same effect as making the horn longer, and is quite discreet.

David

1 hour ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Question… I can understand why 4R 10" speakers are scarcer than 8R ones.

 

But why are any 4R ones that have a decent low-frequency range or an efficiency above 90dB so scarce?

 

 

Market demand? 4R is mainly for cars, 8R is mainly for HiFi etc. or something along those lines.

And as for 4R neo 5" or 6" - I have not found any yet.

David

3 hours ago, Benji85 said:

I've heard that nl4 connectors won't do anything as they are for bi amp systems so 2 with only use the 2 cores when connected anyways so seems pointless to get the nl4 (4 core ? ) Ones?

 

 

My experience is that 4-plugs won't fit 2-sockets unless they are speakon/jack combo sockets, but 2-plugs will fit 4-sockets.

Most budget scrapped speakers that I have dismantled had 4-sockets with terminals 1+ & 2+ connected together and likewise for 1- & 2- . 

David

On 04/06/2023 at 10:09, nekomatic said:

The hi-fi community have decided that minimalist amps using these ICs are called ‘Gainclones’, so if you search for ‘gainclone pcb’ you’ll find some. How to judge which ones are well designed though…

I've done a quick check, and all I can find under 'gainclone' is class AB. For battery use, class D would be a better option - if they exist at kit level.

Thanks for contributing.

David

7 hours ago, nekomatic said:

The hi-fi community have decided that minimalist amps using these ICs are called ‘Gainclones’, so if you search for ‘gainclone pcb’ you’ll find some. How to judge which ones are well designed though…

Thanks for that - I had forgotten about gainclones as a search term, and it does bring up pcbs for through-hole components. I'll have a read and see what sort of bridged power you could get from about 20v of lithium power-pack, or a pair of lead acid batteries.

David

I started that project with a cheap class D module, and ended up buying a car audio amplifier instead.

There are some nice one-chip amps out there, but the marketplaces are full of cheap, badly designed Chinese modules using them, and that overwhelms Google's search engine.

I wouldn't be surprised if there were pcbs for diy amps using those chips, but I don't know how to find them.

Anyone have any ideas?

David

If you are in the market for another amplifier, can I suggest that you consider this, or its rivals

https://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/catalog/product/view/id/6331/s/kenwood-kac-m1814-400w-class-d-4-channel-compact-digital-amplifier/category/37/

Ignore the marketing department's power rating, the CEA2006 standard defines RMS power tests into 4 ohm loads.

This has a SMPS feeding 4 Class D amps giving 4 * 45 W into 4 ohms, or as two bridged pairs, 2 * 45W into 8 ohms or 2 * 90W into 4 ohms, and it runs off an 11-15V supply. It is purpose designed for harsh environments (car boot on a sunny day) and seems to be pretty much bomb proof. It also includes a variable HPF.

I get about 3-4 hours of use from a 7AHr lead acid battery, at outdoor market busking levels with vocals, guitars and electronic drums going through the PA. You only need one channel, but you could use the other for a second cab as and when required.

David

Nice

3 hours ago, tauzero said:

 

TBH it also applies to me, at times I am the superior idiot. Originally I thought of using a switch to isolate the speaker and just having an input socket, but of course that relies on actually switching the switch when required.

You could use a switch to connect the speaker to either the in-board amp or the speaker socket. That would be fairly foolproof.

David

My comments were intended for others contemplating this route. 

Your solution sounds fine to me.

David