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Mottlefeeder

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Posts posted by Mottlefeeder

  1. Almost certainly they will produce some sound at that frequency, but not at a volume comparable to 200Hz and up. 

    For normal bass guitar use, that is no bad thing - the lowest octave often adds little to the bass sound, but adds lots to the general mush and boom.

    David

    • Like 2
  2. 1 minute ago, TeresaFR said:

    Agreed, and what the hell is it with "double flat"? Really?! Really?!! That's surely just pretentious bull crap! Maybe it means something on an instrument built to take into account micro-tonal variations, but that doesn't seem to be a large pool at all.

    I think that the concept of a double flat comes from the need to use each note name once and once only in a scale in that key. So if you have already used the E (as an Eb), the next note up has to be an F something.

     

    David

    • Like 7
  3. I was looking for a multiscale 5-string headless, and ended up with a short list of two, in two separate shops.

     

    Drove to the first one, but didn't like the bass.  The second one was in GG in Birmingham,  who had shipped the bass in from another branch for me to try. Apart from missing the entrance to the car park, and having to go round the block again, it was a smooth and enjoyable visit - as others have said, friendly staff, basic questions about the type of rig I wanted to play through, then as long as I needed to try out the bass. No hard sell, and best of all, Mrs Mottlefeeder paid for it.

     

    David

    • Haha 1
  4. When you talk about logic to mute the amp when the headphones are plugged in, are you sure it is logic controlled, and not just power amp to switched headphone socket with a couple of resistors to cut down on the signal.

     

    If the latter, it is a weak point and it might be worth squirting switch cleaner into the socket assembly (not water dispersant WD40) and inserting/removing the headphone plug several times to see if that clears the problem.

     

    David

    • Like 2
  5. 9 minutes ago, JPJ said:

    I find myself strangely attracted to the idea of external ports, in a sort of bass cab “Lloyds of London” building type way - very steam punk but not very practical for life on the road.
    serious thought though, would top exiting ports help with hearing your bass when you’re crammed into the back corner of the “stage” at your local Dog & Duck?

    If the ports are on top, you can't have an amp on top, but you will have a nice flat surface just waiting for someone to put their pint on...

    As far as the sound is concerned, I think that the ports only operate around the resonant frequency of the cab, so I'm not sure that you would hear much note definition from them.

    David

    • Like 1
  6. 25 minutes ago, Chienmortbb said:

    ...you can decide whether, like @Mottlefeeder, you want to use a car amp that combines the amp and a voltage multiplier. Alternately you can use a class D amp plus a separate voltage multiplier. Be aware that car amp makers exaggerate  even more than MI makers...

    Most reputable car amp manufacturers specify Watts RMS into 4 ohms @ 1% distortion with a 14.4v in accordance with the 'Amplifier power standard CTA 2006' (I've also seen it written as CEA 2006). If in doubt, check the paperwork, not the silkscreen printing.

    David

    • Like 1
  7. As an alternative to the 'wedge in front' speaker tilt gadget, this one is a 'lean back and relax' design.

     

    It clips together like a warning triangle, and the straps from each corner are trapped under the speaker, which can then lean back against the triangle. Each of the straps has two button holes, giving four tilt options.

     

    The manufacturer's website is here http://standback.net

     

    The original design included a nut and bolt in the soft bit that went under the speaker cab, which sounded like bad news for tolex, so I substituted a squash ball on a string. However, I'm now using IEMs, so I have no need to tilt my cabs.

     

    It's yours, posted within UK Mainland, for £15

    DSCF2965.JPG

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    DSCF2966.JPG

  8. 2 hours ago, Lfalex v1.1 said:

    ...I tried running two HPFs to give -24dB/octave but it sounded over-processed. I've no idea what "order" the filter is. Maybe that's relevant. 

     

     

     

    I tried an experiment using the speaker box calculator WinISD - checking the responses of a 4-pole filter and 2 * 2-pole filters, all supposedly Butterworth. The 2 * 2-pole filter had a much gentler knee than the other, so that may have been part of what you heard.

    David 

  9. 43 minutes ago, BillB said:

    So the Tangband does not fit into the ammo can, too wide, very annoyed, might build it into a tiny combo style amp with a wooden cabinet...

     

    However, I have found some Peerless SDS-135F25CP02-06 drivers I bought for another project years ago, and one of those will physically fit, need to get the driver into Hornresp or bassboxpro to model the driver/box combination and see if it will work. They are recognised as a subwoofer on the datasheet and do 50Hz-5kHz I think.

    If the Peerless does not model well, you might consider the Faital Pro 5FE120 - 5" 80W  Loudspeaker from Blue Aran - £23.44 +p&p It's available as a 4 ohm as well as an 8 ohm.

    I use a pair of them, driven by a stereo class D amp and they sound pretty good.

    David

  10. The attached PDF is a 2018 copy of FDeck's 12dB +12dB HPF design notes, and a tested and proven guitar-fx stripboard layout. 

    Note, the user opted for a TL074 with a 9v supply, but it is not recommended for use at less than 10v

    David

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    downloadfile.PDF

  11. Often a crackle can be traced to something as simple as dirty contacts on a socket, to my first action would be a plug into each signal socket in turn and see if the noise persists or disappears. For the effects loop, take a guitar lead and link the Fx send to the Fx return.

    Next, you could try splitting the circuit into blocks and checking each block. Try feeding the signal from the Fx send to a mixer or another amplifier and see if that crackles. Next, take a signal from another source into the Fx return, and see if that crackles.

    That's probably as far as I would advise you to go unless you are knowledgeable enough to take the amp out of the combo and work on it without electrocuting yourself.

    David

  12. 2 hours ago, Dan Dare said:

    ... Given that the industry standard for class D heads seems to be an ICEpower module with a preamp in front of it in a fetching looking metal box...

    Pretty much what I thought - for the same money or less, you can have a well known brand with no resale problems, or an unknown with the problems that might bring.

    David

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