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itu

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Posts posted by itu

  1. If you have a CNC machine and some wood, would you be able to make a good instrument?

     

    Find some suitable wood, cut it the right way, and then prepare it to the machine. Ta da, we have a blank!

     

    Rob makes super instruments, he is able to produce, or should I say, manufacture high end stuff. If prices seem high, we could play like Jonas or Chris, and ask for an endorsement. If it suits Rob, problem solved.

    • Like 1
  2. 1 hour ago, Al Krow said:

    Sounds sophisticated? Is there a pedal that does the same thing? 

    The system has to be close to the hum, i.e. pickups. Was it Vigier that has a dummy coil in the Excess control plate? And Alembic has that dummy coil visible in between the actual pickups.

     

    Find more info using words: "hum removal dummy coil".

  3. On 08/08/2023 at 21:51, thisisswanbon said:

    I had a hotone patch kommander at one point and didn't notice any degradation 

    The result doesn't have to be degradation, but somewhat changed behaviour of certain fx, especially the family of OD/dist/fuzz.

     

    Buffers usually have super low output impedance. A hi-Z output (once more: this is not about signal voltage levels) bass may drive the pedal in a different way, and this results a different sound.

    • Thanks 1
  4. If the field is really magnetic over electric, your chances to shield anything are low. But if only the g-word is affected, start from checking the placement of the amp, and then the instrument. Maybe you have to tilt the amp to its side, but be creative.

     

    (When I was working with electronic compasses, a customer was asking to shield the circuitry from electric fields, because train drive affected the compass' performance...

     

    If it is unclear to someone: electric field always produces magnetic field, too. Magnetic fields are possible without electric fields, like with permanent magnets.)

    • Like 1
  5. Remove the original plate with pots and save it as it is. The set costs so little, and then you have an original backup just in case.

     

    Another hi-Z version is to have

    vol - blend - tone - out

    Use Bourns 500k MN as the blend pot, and a switch pot for that series option.

     

    Lo-Z options are numerous; John East was already mentioned. It's probably The Preamp, although tastes vary.

     

    You want to go to extremes: use switches (rotary is also an option) to choose pickups, tone etc. Might work best in studio environment, where sounds can be chosen and returned in fractions of a second.

  6. What I forgot is the mixing. If you are about to make a fine system, do not use simple pot to mix coils/pickups. Study Noll Mixpot, and understand its performance compared to a blend pot. Otherwise you are having a tone pot (yes!), named as blend or vol in your system.

    • Like 1
  7. Tobias has had similar system: one double coil pickup, 2 B&T adjustments for coils.

     

    Status Paramatrix has even more adjustments.

     

    Theoretical:

    As each pickup is in different position relative to each other, the responses are different, just like in Jazz bass. Do they cancel something out together, most likely.

     

    Of course you can have multi coil pickup (or a piezo bridge) and adjust every coil separately. Do you get significant advantage over a simple system, hardly. The main idea is to support pickups, and it is up to you to use hi-Z ("passive") tone pot, or some lo-Z, battery powered circuitry (treble, B&T, B&M&T, semi parametric, B&T tilt, filter...).

    • Like 1
  8. 1 hour ago, Lfalex v1.1 said:

    If you had new saddles made,  it would also be possible to experiment with different materials; brass, aluminium, titanium etc.

    Ti is very soft, Al would benefit from anodizing (more slippery, slightly harder surface). Brass and steel would be my favourites: pretty easy to machine, hard enough to withstand strings, decent price, some colours are possible...

     

    How about this one?

    https://hipshotproducts.com/products/5-string-a-style-bass-bridge

  9. Very rough description of strings:

    Nickel roundwound: even, flattish response

    SS RW: zing and "smiley eq" response

    Flatwound, and tape wound: no highs, pretty short sustain

    Half round: something between Ni RW and flatwound

     

    Most of the zing of the RWs is lost after some time of playing.

     

    It may help to find the right set by varying the thickness of the sets. I thought that the thicker, the tighter, but there seems to be some kind of sweet spot, what suits my basses and my playing. As an example a .120 was the best B in my 35" scale Modulus Quantum. .130 and .135 sounded lousy. Do brave trials.

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