Horrorhiker

Superb guys, thanks for that. Thats definately given me food for thought. I guess at the end of the day, its better to have to change/buy another pedal than have a bass you always know isn't 'the one'. 

I shall keep you posted on the bass Cameron, if I get it. Possibly might be worth a trip to Brighton to try one. 

Cheers for that. 

Sorry if this has been featured on here before, but Ive scoured what I can and get such conflicting information across loads of sites. 

Ive got my eye on a Schecter Model T session. I'm in love with the look of it, and although I would never usually buy a bass without trying it, the amount I like it, plus reviews and anecdotal comments make me think its worth the risk (with the option of a return). 

Anyway, the problem is that I almost exclusively use a Big Muff Bass at the moment. I like the sound of fuzz bass, my bands are happy with the sound, so I don't really want to mess about with the formula too much. 

The Model T is active only, and I didnt realise there was a problem with active/fuzz pedals until I stumbles upon the issue on line. I havent had an active bass since I started playing so wasnt something I even considered. 

What are peoples experiences here? I don't mind so much about tone changes etc, but I worry more about level drop off and feedback etc.

One option is getting a deluxe big muff that has an extra feature for dealing with active but it seems a lot to go through, hassle and expense wise, to try a bass I have no guarantee of liking at the end of the day. 

It might be mute as next weekend I'm going to try out a few 2nd choice alternatives including the Yamaha BB range, but I'd like to know if dismissing the Model T just purely down to it being active is an error really. 

GAS TROUBLE!

Cheers in advance! 

I have hit a bit of a snag. I was geared up for the Model-T session, but after a bit of research, was dissapointed to find that active basses don't work ideally with fuzz pedals. I haven't owned an active bass for about 20 years and had no idea this was the case. I have the option of trying the bass out, and changing pedal to perhaps a bass big muff deluxe, which facilitates a higher signal, but that's a lot of potential messing about for something I can't try first. I almost exclusively use a Big Muff for both my bands so it's a big consideration I have to make. Totally gutted as am literally in love with the Model T, to look at at least. 

Hello. Check out 'Scotts Bass Lessons' on Youtube. He has a paid for academy, but there are plenty of free lessons also from complete beginner to quite advanced.

When I started, I had a year on my own working out my favorite songs on bass, then started lessons after that. On one hand I picked up bad habits, but on the other, working out stuff by ear early on can help you loads later on imo. Depends if you're concerned about having 'correct' technique or not I guess.

I personally watched loads of Steve Harris, Lemmy John Deacon footage at the age of 13 onwards, followed by Cliff Burton later,  which helped me get into bass big time, so I would definitely recommend watching and learning from your bass heroes and getting inspired that way. 

Good luck!! Keep us posted. 

1 hour ago, SpondonBassed said:

Cool.

It is no more than it needs to be yet everything you need it to be.

Cheers! Thats what I thought. It's the Tesco value toilet paper of pedal boards basically ha ha.

Its twice as big as I need it now but im probably going to halve it to make 2 smaller ones and give the other to our guitarist. 

Hi! 

I'm thinking about sawing this in half as It's too big for my needs these days, and this prompted me to look to see if I still had any in progress photos, and found a few.

Basically, I am totally rubbish at doing things with drills, saws, or anything else that requires any sort of co-ordination (not including Bass-depending on who you ask). 

I found this to be such as easy project, that I'm amazed I don't see more around. I'm sure there are several on here that are way better than mine but I was hoping that this might inspire someone to have a go that is like me..the sort of person that says..'that will do' a lot! This will be very basic to most people here, but it's just to show that anyone can have a go at stuff really.

Did this ages ago and the pictures aren't exactly step by step, but hopefully you can see what I did. Here's a very rough plan : 

1) Got the wood and cut to size. On mine, I used four strips of wood cut to the length I thought I wanted, then measured and cut two smaller pieces as the side supports.

2) Sanded and primed the wood. 

3) Screwed it all together. I believe I used wood glue first. (see the 2nd pic for how it fits together, pretty self explanatory). 

4) 'Paint it Black'. Choose an appropriate song to listen to while completing this step. 

5) Screwed on finishing touches such as cast iron carrying handles, and two little rubber feet at the rear (as you're looking at it). 

6) Got some Velcro tape and stuck strips across. 

7) Found a guard dog to protect the finished product. 

Sorry there are not more detailed steps. I think I originally saw something similar on Pinterest and took my inspiration from that, so I'm sure if you need more detailed instructions, or plans for something more ambitious, they can be easily found on there. 

I believe the whole thing cost around £15. Basically save the pedaltrain money for a pedal or two. 

Hope this helps someone decide to have a go. 

10 hours ago, EliasMooseblaster said:

If the active model plays even half as well as a passive, then you're looking at a damn good bass. The main differences I think you'd need to watch out for are:

(i) neck profile - the Model T's neck is much more like a Jazz bass than a P. Wide and shallow, but very fast. Bit of a surprise at first, but it didn't take me long to warm to it.

(ii) The pickups. They're not Fender pickups, and they will always sound subtly different. Don't know how the EMGs will compare to the passive SD Basslines in my own Model T, but the "different" sound was no less satisfying than the Fender. And for comparison, I did put a Fender CS '62 RI pickup into my kit-built P bass copy a few years ago, and it now does "that" Precision sound very convincingly for a fraction of the price...so you could always pop one of those into a Squier or HB Precision as your backup and free up even more money for beer!

Excellent, thanks for the feedback. One of my concerns would be it being too pokey, but I'm a 1 sound kind of guy usually (at least live) so once its punched in either with the bass or amp, that'll do me. I read about the neck somewhere else actually so I think it comes as a suprise to others too. I had one of the Modern Player Dimensions once and it sounds like it had a similar sized neck, which is a good thing as that suited me very well. Thanks again. Since last night my Jeremy Vine swingometer is about 80% toward the Model T. 

2 minutes ago, White Cloud said:

The branding on an instrument often gets in the way.

Schecter are certainly not one of the "trend" marques - but they make factory manufactured basses that are at least as well designed, built, great sounding and playable as anything else on the market at a comparable price...or much more. I always think that the name playing the instrument is more important than the name on the headstock in any case.

i would certainly have no hesitation in buying one if that was my thing.

Yes definitely. I've certainly had 'Fenderitis' since deciding to start looking at getting one a couple of months ago. I've looked at Laklands, G&L and others, which arguably could be 'better', and at least as expensive. This Schecter is the first thing I've looked at that has made me seriously consider a U-turn, and I haven't even touched one yet, which shows how much I like how it looks at least. If I was spontaneous and went by gut instinct, I'd be ok. Unfortunately I usually obsess for ages over what crisps to get from the petrol station. 

51 minutes ago, Andytre said:

i picked up a diamond Jazz bass for £200 probably the best jazz I've ever played, hipshot hardware (or very good copies) EMG pups and a great preamp. finish and build quality was amazing. but unfortunately i don't really like jazzes so i got rid. really want to try a diamond P bass or Model T. the new model T basses look amazing in my opinion.   

I really just need someone to give me a little nudge and I can see myself going for the Model T. They are getting towards the price of a decent used Precision, which gives me pause, but truthfully, I prefer the looks of the Schecter, and if it's almost as versatile as a P, that would probably do me. If it was passive, or had the option, I would also be a bit more trigger happy on it probably. 

As I just said to Moose, I'm in the middle of saving for a Am Pro Precision, so it's not a light decision to take, particularly as there is no way of getting to try one out easily. Would be a gamble. And if you like to gamble, I tell you, I'm NOT your man (usually). 

1 hour ago, EliasMooseblaster said:

I can never remember which of the "Session" and "Studio" models is the active or passive version - I have the passive one!

I think it was about 2013 I first picked mine up, and it's still one of my favourites after all that time. Funnily enough, I did have a go on a US Std about 12 months after, and started to wonder if I should trade the Schecter in. The fact that I'm still happy with the Model T, and not really pining for the Fender that badly, makes me think it was the right decision to stick with it. They are different, no two ways about it, surprisingly so for two ostensibly similar designs, but I don't think the Fender was necessarily £500 "better" than the Schecter. I still maintain that the Model T is a wonderful instrument.

Thanks for the reply. The one I'm looking at is the active one. The session series are ash, with active EMGs: 

https://www.gak.co.uk/en/schecter-model-t-session-bass/110644?gclid=Cj0KCQiA2Y_UBRCGARIsALglqQ1RUlioiY1oQi454qviFHlx52KwkiY3HbITL-Mwl-dzqy20PPHbYGYaAgl8EALw_wcB

It has really got me in a  massive quandary as I am exactly in the middle of saving for the US Pro Precision (£1500), but I LOVE the look of the Schecter. A bass hasn't grabbed me visually like that for a long time, and the more I look into it, the more 'wow' I get. I like how it sounds on Youtube videos, and they seem to get almost universal praise. I've had a look and there is nowhere remotely round here to try one out. It's around £700, and I cant help thinking that I could buy this and a Sire Marcus Miller as a back up plus a whole load of beer for the price of just the Fender.  Worst case of GAS I've ever had. 

On 06/11/2017 at 14:54, EliasMooseblaster said:

Ah, I think that might be "Westside" or something similar, a couple of shops along from Wunjo. They're the only shop on Denmark Street who stock pedaltrain and MXR as well I believe.

I had a Schecter Model T a while back. I believe it was a continuation of the Rob Deleo signature. Came standard with Seymour Duncan pickups and pretty decent hardware. It was quite a nice bass. Nothing amazing, but did most things well.

I still have a Model T - and, as coincidence would have it, I bought it from Westside. At the time, I was considering pulling the trigger on a Fender but wasn't sure I could spare the readies for a US Std P. The Model T knocked the Fender Mex Std into a cocked hat, and didn't set me back very much more. If you can get on with the idea of a P-J bass with a Jazz-like neck then I'd heartily recommend trying one.

(Sounds great through an Ashdown valve amp!)

I may be raising this thread from the dead but I'm looking at the model T session as a cheaper alternative to a Fender Am pro. Realise you might not have that model but was curious as to what you feel about it a few months on. Happy or wish you saved up for the Fender? Cheers. 

1 hour ago, Geek99 said:

@Horrorhiker I have had a few problems like this but they were all on early mex examples. I don’t think it’s quite the problem that it used to be

Cheers, the first I tried was new (so the shop claimed though Im sceptical, and the 2nd was 2003 ish. Makes sense that it would be early ones and I imagine they use minimal laquer in Mexico too. 

55 minutes ago, EssentialTension said:

It's not all about tone.

It's also about note choice, rhythm, phrasing, and rests.

There are a lot of isolated bass tracks on Youtube that prove this well. The amount of comments talking about the playing being 'sloppy' or 'weak' is amazing. No consideration of the things you listed. Does it sound right in the mix? If yes, there is no problem with tone or anything else. 

1 minute ago, Grangur said:

Completely understandable. There is a beauty to a piece where 2 pieces of wood come together and the finish is smooth and there is no gap etc. If there are lumps and bumps and gaps, this is not the same. If you're actually going for a rustic feel, then you might get a Wishbass, but that's different.  With the style of a Fender you're not normally buying into this kind of feel.

Yes thats it. Layered wood (if thats the right term) can look amazing and implies quality (to me) so I can see how the skunk stripe could fit into that bracket. I'm looking at getting an American Pro, if I can justify the cost to myself. Graphite reinforcement and no stripe. Or may keep an eye out for a US standard on here. I've considered other makes, particuarly Lakland but I really feel that if I don't get a keeper of a real Fender P at some point in my life, I'll never be satisfied. Its all John Deacon's fault. 

12 minutes ago, Grangur said:

Having worked in wood-working factories, I would say the reason for undulations in the skunk-stripe is because wood, when cut thin is prone to twist and bend. Fender are in the business of making instruments as cheap as they can to hit a competitive price. They won't be wanting to ditch the slats that have been cut for the neck infills, just because they're twisted. It's very unlikely the twisting has happened after it has been fitted into the neck.

This is at least the 2nd thread we've seen here on BC about dips and lumps in the skunk-stripe, so maybe Fender have made some changes in the acceptability levels in their QA checking at the factory.

If it was mine, I'd either refuse it on delivery, or take some fine-grade glasspaper to it and sand it flat. Then finish it off with a few coats of lacquer. It is, after all's said a budget bass. So you get what you pay for. If you like the bass in every other respect, fix it and move on. 

I took the first back and obviously didnt buy the 2nd. The guy selling the 2nd one thought I was crackers, though I thought there was evidence that his had been fixed to some extent before. he wasnt too impressed with my pointing out of that. Its psycological as much as anything as the feeling was very subtle, but I just can't imagine playing with any sort of crack in the neck. Body dings and scapes, I actually like (if they are genuine and not silly 'shabby chic' ageing). No offense road wear lovers. 😉

42 minutes ago, White Cloud said:

I'm the opposite...I won't buy a Fender unless it has the skunk stripe! I thinks it adds an inteesting aesthetic.

Its very common on instruments that feature laminations of different species of hardwoods, especially in the make of the neck to end up with this phenomenon. 

If it's not your thing then it' not your thing.

I get what you mean. I did think they looked great. I have to have a silky neck. 

..and same goes for my basses. 

50 minutes ago, fleabag said:

It would seem to me that if the design needed a skunk stripe to fill the gap for the truss rod rout, then fitting the same wood as the neck would solve the problem of two differently expanding woods. If the builder wants the stripe to stand out, the just stain it darker.

Yes same here. There has to be a reason but I can't think what. 

1 hour ago, Dan Dare said:

I wonder if the fact that it seems to apply to MIM basses may be due to the fact that they are made in a country with a hot dry climate. Bringing them to Blighty, with our colder conditions and higher humidity, may cause an issue due to the different rates of expansion in the woods of the skunk stripe and neck.

I did wonder that myself. My house is an old beamed place with no central heating so is not a place for climate sensitive wood, or people for that matter. 

1 minute ago, casapete said:

Mate in a band had a Linebacker combo for his keyboards, 50 watt I think. That amp got 

used for everything over the years - keys, bass, guitar, small vocal PA / monitor,etc - and never missed a beat.

He still has it and it still works great.

Yes, I sold mine to a friend and it was still going strong at least 3 or 4 years ago. Different topic I suppose and I imagine it has been talked about, but I wonder if stuff was generally made better in those days. I couldn't imagine getting a practice amp that would last 20 years today without spending a whole lot of money. That could very well just be my, grumpy old man attitude though I guess. 

Just now, Matt P said:

It wasn't actually a bad guitar, it played pretty well and sounded fine, I can't remember if I ever gigged it but it might have been a backup on a gig or two 

I remember thinking that these particular one's looked better than the budget stuff you could get in the shop. I think the bass looks good now. I'd certainly go for a real precision of that colour. White with matching headstock would be great. In hindsight I never considered how well they would play, which I guess not many of us did when starting. 

12 hours ago, Burns-bass said:

They’re so expensive aren’t they? I remember buying a bass when I was at college for £15 (must have been 1997) and a Peavey TNT 130 for £85. That’s not a bad rig for that price. By 21 I was gigging an Atia Cat II The Pro Bass. Lovely!

All paid for by a paper round or shelf stacking at Asda.

My first stuff would have been 1992 or 93 or so. Encore Bass, new from a shop I think was just under £100. You got a good deal there I think. 99p for 10 Lambert and Butler, and around £1 a pint..glory days. 

Just made me think my old gear. I got a Laney Linebacker a few years later, the 120B. Must have been £150 or something I think. That was a good amp, and still look quite popular. At the time I hated it, but was always thinking about the 'next, better one'. 

16 minutes ago, Matt P said:

I've never seen that advert before but I did actually own one of the crackle Black guitars, my uncle found it in a junk shop and bought it for my nephew, I then had it for a while and set it up. I've played worse instruments, I ended up giving it back to my nephew once it had been sorted. 

Wow. The 'Rythmaster' in the flesh. I think it's ok to look at actually. You could totally imagine Kirk Hammet going for that, not that it's a massive endorsement. 

6 hours ago, dood said:

Just got back from the gig, still buzzing so I thought I’d respond now. I can tell you the little squishy devices were awesome. I actually received 4 sets in the pack rather than 3, with one set being an ‘odd one out’ in opaque surgical silicone. They ended up being the most comfortable and my glasses stayed put all night without extra bands etc. I’ll see if I can find a picture of the add ons I used.

These look good! 

2 minutes ago, mikel said:

I have to say, If you had a band that was fair to middling  and you wanted to make it big, then the Spice Girls management and marketing machine would be the team to have. If they could make the Spice Girls big they must have been feckin brilliant at their jobs.

Professional turd polisher, I think the official job title is. 

42 minutes ago, dmccombe7 said:

Was never really much of a Queen fan altho appreciated how good they were. Enjoyed occasional singles at the time in 70's.

Always thought John Deacon had a great tone. Fitted perefctly with every song no matter what bass he used.

Does anyone know what amps he used to use back then. ? Just curious.

Dave

I looked this up once. I think IHiwatt in the early days and Acoustic through the later 70s and 80s.