Bigguy2017

Get both, try them, send one back...  😉  It's the only way to be sure.

IMHO the J pup is pretty useless on a Mustang, simply not needed.

JMJ is the best of the Mustangs (If you like the neck width and can't find a great 70's one)...

Road worn? Meh, who cares - it's going to get some dings eventually and pre-dinged is kind of liberating....  YMMV

22 hours ago, Doddy said:

I've always preferred Jazz basses or modern 5 strings, but I've got a tour coming up where I have to play a Precision.

There is something cool about a Precision, which is probably why a load of the hippest players are using them again.

Yes, it's like old Telecasters... they're a kind of Zen.

They say "look how amazing I am, I can play amazing stuff on the simplest of all instruments, I don't need fancy tools 'cos I have super subtle skills..."  😉

Flip it over for a bit of sole music?

An Introduction to AVB Networking | PreSonus

Check your in/out signal patching 

See  AVB Ecosystem Checklist | PreSonus  

I'm not totally familiar with the specific desk BUT...

It's either;

AVB network cable faulty - try another CAT6 cable

Select the Right Ethernet Cable | PreSonus

Setup in the mixer - does Aux over AVB have to be enabled in a setup menu?

Mixer firmware issue - have you updated to the latest version?

It's unlikely both stage boxes are faulty (unless there is a firmware version incompatibility).

Can't think of anything else...

Just as an experiment try a radically different amp / cab setup too...

I have a thing in the house where any bass through my tc 2 x 8" combo has a hugely loud A. Something to do with the speakers and room dimensions I think.

Plug into the Rumble 1x 15" combo and it all sounds fine.

Audio-Technica ATH-M50X Studio Monitor Professional Headphones - Black: Amazon.co.uk: Musical Instruments  £108 delivered

Stick them on with a blob of silicon sealer - you will be able to get them off when required

1 hour ago, Berserker said:

Yes, it was in bridge mode when I used the speakon. I then changed it to unbridged mode to try the 1/4" lead and Output A worked fine... nothing from Output B.

Strange, the fans aren't that noisy at all on this one. You certainly wouldn't notice it on a stage.

Sounds like output B is dead - so bridge mode isn't going to work. 

Hmmm... tricky one this...

The LH1000 has two 500W power modules, like a stereo amp.

Page 12 of the manual says use a 'standard Speakon cable' - would this be two or four pin / conductors???

I'm guessing (!) that the 4 pin speakon out is wired as two 500W pairs, and in bridge mode you connect a single speaker between the 1+ and the 2+ as is usual with bridging stereo amps ?.

Not enough info in the manual.

LHseries_OM_EN_v2.pdf (samsontech.com)

So, if it's not alien influence what was it? Hard to tell now it's all OK again.

Possibilities?

Dry joint in the amp (input) bumped in transit. 

Send/return jacks problem.

Amp fault - SMPSU not firing up.

If it happens again plug a (good) jack cable into the input and touch the tip... anything? This is the basic test of  "is the amp working ?"'. Tuner can be used to test cables - give them a flex all along their length.

Plug a jack cable into send/returns... switch jacks can go o/c

Try some 'percussive maintenance' on the amp - this can detect dry joints and loose connections.. 

Have a good look inside the amp - look for bad soldering, swollen/leaking caps, loose plugs etc.

Why did the acoustic work? Cold just be chance + an intermittent problem.

Can't think of anything else. 

Presonus Eris 3.5

PreSonus Eris E3.5 - 2-way, High-Definition Active Studio Monitors (Pair): Amazon.co.uk: Musical Instruments   £96.99 delivered

If you can stump up a bit more you can get the Eris 4.5 which are a step up

PreSonus Eris E4.5 4.5-inch, 2-way, High-Definition Active Studio Monitors (Pair),Black: Amazon.co.uk: Musical Instruments  £142.00 delivered

or even a pair of Eris 5s 

Try tightening the truss rod a quarter turn - any better at all? 

Neck should (!) now be nearly straight... check the neck bolts are not loose.

If the action is still too high, ) you will need a small shim in the neck pocket to tilt the neck back a little bit.

2 hours ago, SteveXFR said:

I don't think it's the switch as there would still be a clean signal through the pedal when the effect is off. It's also switching the indicator light on and off.

IF it's 'mechanical' bypass via the switch (a 3 pole - 9 pins switch) it could have one pole faulty; this would fit the symptoms. Try shorting across the switch.

If it's all done electronically on the main board then it's something else...  😉 FET or opamp failure or possible just a dry joint.

The new Stingrays are certainly very nice, but they're not THAT nice to pay £3K for.

If you shop around and bide your time you can get a 'Ray, with case, for well under £1K.

Could be many things.

First place to start is dried out electrolytic capacitors.

Have a real good, close look at all the electrolytics, looking for doming, swelling or leakage.

A duff decoupling cap could be the culprit.

I wanted to replace the mute pads on my '88 Stingray and I can't seem to source just the pads - whole mute kits are sometimes available.

So, I got to thinkin', they're only foam rubber pads...

Sourced some EPDM self-adhesive gasket and after some measurin' and figurin' decided that 8mm thick and 20mm wide was ideal.

Amazon supplied  Neoprene Rubber Black Self-adhesive Sponge Strip 20mm wide x 8mm thick x 5m long: Amazon.co.uk: Welcome  and after a bit of Blue Peter with a knife I had new mute pads.

Work just fine too.  It would be easier to do this at a string change, but slackening off was enough.

I've got enough for a lifetime now... 😉

That headstock looks home made - the wiring clip string trees are genius.

I've seen that bridge before - on a Framus or Eko maybe?

OK...

To start, make up a lead with a jack on one end, for your amp, and a pair of croc clips on the other end. This is most useful for fault-finding...

Clip croc clips to pickup wires (pup disconnected from wiring loom). Is the pickup working? - That'll be a yes...  😉

Solder pickup wires to volume pot (outside pins). Clip croc leads to ground and centre pin - does volume pot now work?

Solder output cable to pot (centre and earth). Connect a regular jack cable to the output jack - all working?

Solder tone control and cap into place - still working?

Sounds like the switch is dodgy. Many of the cheap chinese switches are prone to fail.

Does  your pre-amp pedal run off a plug-in DC supply?

If it's a regular double insulated power supply it's not earthed (probably has a plastic earth pin), so there is no path to earth.

Touching the bass's metal work earths it via your body, and stops the buzz...  Normally the pre-amp would plug into a power amp and that would be earthed.

Take a piece of single wire and touch it onto the pre-amp's casing (if metal) or jack socket - touch the other end on something grounded .

If this cures the buzz you could plug a cable into a spare pre-amp out (?) and ground the cable's screen to some nearby piece of kit.

Now, if only these wern't so darned expensive....

Filmtools Junior Convertible Cart w/ 18" x 20" Nose Plate 5550 - Filmtools

Filmtools Junior Competitor Cart Convertible Hand Truck & Platform Cart 10409 - Filmtools

I mark the date on the new battery with a sharpie - when I come to change the battery it's always older than I imagined...

The Stingray got a new battery two years ago and it's still OK.

As the other posters have stated, the only way that's coming out is to jam something into the nut.

Filing/sanding a slight taper on the flats of a allen key can work.

If you can get enough reach with a Dremel and a 'dentist' bit you could cut a couple of slots in the nut (doesn't have to be tidy) and use a large, flat blade screwdriver.