DIYjapan

The sheet of plywood 15mm will be more than enough for a single cab so I'm contemplating making a second cab out of the leftovers. Does anyone have a 12" they'd recommend for a smallish (+-40L) sealed cab?

Still a newbie question: I have subtracted the bracing that I will be using from the internal volume but I didn't take into account the dampening materials. I haven't found anything that I can use yet here locally so I'm not sure what I'll be using. I've found, well I think I have, a good source of wool dampening material and some decent looking eggcrate stuff made for sound cancellation. Found other egg crate stuff that look really cheap too but thought that the denser stuff would work better. Right, question: Do I need to subtract the space of the dampening materials too?

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1496838355' post='3314185'] If designing speaker cabinets was easy everyone would do it. Just to complicate matters further, it looks like you're using WinISD Beta, or perhaps an old version of Alpha. I can't tell which from the photos, as they're too small to make out details, and in any event I haven't had either of those for quite a few years, so I have nothing to compare to. You should be using WinISD 0.7.0.950. [url="http://www.linearteam.org/"]http://www.linearteam.org/[/url] [/quote] I downloaded the winisd pro alpha. I can't recall the release date but I did notice that a lot (all) of the newer eminence drivers kappalite 3012, beta12a-2 (which I am modeling) are not in the database. I had to input the driver specs myself. Will look into downloading an updated version. Thanks for the heads up Bill.

Here we go with the amp pushing out 50 watts. This looks more reasonable. Will definitely have to reduce air noise on this thing somehow. What a difficult thing this balloon wrestling. Feels like some one greased the balloon. I guess that is part of the fun.

Air velocity with the amp pumping 250 watts. WOW. I blew it off the chart. crud.

Hello, question not about the amp but the cabinet in that first picture. What is it? DIY? Looks really sweet.

The 57L is with the bracing. Without I was about 62L. As for port velocity: I was looking for that but haven't found it yet on the software. Also went and looked at the SPL running at 250watts. The max of my little Tc electronics BH250. Looks like I may get in trouble if I crank it up. There was a spike below 50hz and another bump over the red line from 100hz area. Worrisome?

Here is a mock up battle between an Eminence Beta 12a-2 (white), Delta 12(pink), and a Delta 12lf(green). To me the green Delta 12lf would be the best choice. So only problem is I can't get the old driver and will have to put in new stats for the newer 12lfa version. But, (again, maybe I'm reading this graph all wrong) it looks like that is the best choice for the box I'm designing.

Help with winISD. So I downloaded this software and have been playing around with it for about a week now, don't let my wife know, and man is it great. I entered the stats for the Eminence Beta 12a-2 and I even entered them correctly I hope. Here is a screen shot of the response I get for the basic 1 watt input. I've designed this cab and considering the internal bracing the internal volume will be about 57.5 litters. The plan calls for a vented port out the front. It will be divided in half so I input 2 ports into the software. The will be 4cm tall, 18.5 wide and it looks like 19cm long. Those measurements give me this graph result. Looks like a nice curve to me. I can get it to bump at the 100hz area by shortening the vent but I didn't think a huge bump was a good thing. Anyone with more experience with this let me know if my graph looks acceptable? Thanks [attachment=246795:57L4CM19CM.jpg]

In regards to the spruce: it also came in larger sizes, 24x24, 30x30, and 12 x (18, 24 or 30).

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1495813099' post='3306832'] Panel to panel braces are far more effective, and allow you to build a cab from 1/2"/12mm plywood for a lightweight cab. [/quote] I've been redrawing my plans with light spline bracing and panel bracing Left to right side and front to back. I have a question in regards to the wood for this purpose. I will probably use leftovers from the original plywood. In case I run out would cheap pine from the home center work? They also have some nice lightweight spruce (18x18mm) that looked way better than the pine and not much more price wise.

Phil, I'm looking into the linden ply which is 7 ply at 15mm. Also found an importer of Latvian birch 11ply at 15mm. It costs a little bit more, double actually, but would probably look better. Contacted a Russian Waterproof birch ply importer too but I'm still waiting for a reply from them. Right now I'm leaning towards the Latvian birch.

Looks like a 3 x 6 piece of 15mm ply will be sufficient for most of my cabinet. I have found birch ply but it will run $150~200! Searched the net and found Japanese Linden (basswood) at the same size for only $60 or so plus that site will cut the wood for me which is a major plus because all I have is a hand saw. Question: anyone use linden for a cabinet before? Did you find it sturdy enough?

[quote name='baldwinbass' timestamp='1495832309' post='3307011'] Welcome, from a fan of Japanese culture (particularly lacquer ware and inro). [/quote] The lacquer ware is beautiful but the traditional joinery techniques that the Japanese use are amazing. Really mind blowing stuff.

[quote name='basscki' timestamp='1495808634' post='3306796'] Nihonggo-ga wakarimas ka? Anatawa Igirisujin des ka? [/quote] I'm American. Hai, nihongo wakarimasu.

actually I've started to come around to the tubes. Thanks for the previous links. I also saw a really nice 1x10 on an old thread from beer of the bass. As for tube bracing anyone know if it's necessary or not? I looked back at the basschat112 and Mk II threads those ports looked to be unsupported with inner bracing.

Question regarding downpipe ports. I was hoping for a vented plan because it's all wood and glue and things I'm familiar with but most people on here are recommending tube ports. So my question is this: do they need to be supported by braces inside the cabinet or are they simply mounted in the baffle with glue?

Beer of the bass that sounds great. I will give that a try but I'll have to use tru-oil because the Danish oil runs about $100 per can here.

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1495883613' post='3307309'] Regarding the Bag End/Wall of Sound look, I got a similar sort of finish on a little 1x10" cab I built using birch plywood, stained brown then finished with Danish Oil and Briwax. If you did that and mounted the speaker with four metal L-clamps it should look about right. [/quote] Thanks for the tip. I was thinking of staining the finished cab brown then sanding it back a bit for a worn look followed by try-oil or Danish oil. How did you apply the briwax? Any tips there?

If the Beyma is not available for the original 1x12 what would you suggest as a replacement? Eminence is the easiest to find but celestian is also available. In the thread for that cab the 3012HO was considered but if that beta would work in both the original and MK IIs I'd be hard pressed to choose which to build first.

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1495879377' post='3307244'] The 3012HO is a bit wasted in a box that size. 35-40l is probably better. It will work in the Basschat 12 and you can change the shape to make it taller so long as you stick with the overall volume and the port dimensions. You could use the dimensions of the Mk 2 if you want and leave out the horn, Stevie spent some time working on the bracing and you could simply copy his. The Eminence Beta 12A-2 will work well in this cab. I can imagine getting hold of the Beyma we used would be nigh on impossible in Japan. [/quote] Wow thanks for this post. Using the Beta12A-2 would slash the overall price. Awesome. I may try to copy the Mk II. I didn't want to plagiarize so I was thinking to try my own way but if it'd be alright with everyone this would be the simplest route for me. Later I may make the original 1x12 and sit it on top or underneath the mk II. Hmm, something to think about indeed. I looked all over and that Beyma is not to be found here. Oh, well.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1495813099' post='3306832'] I see you're using spline braces on the box sides. Spline braces are better than no braces, but barely. Panel to panel braces are far more effective Corner ports in all four corners work better, and they have the advantage of bracing the top, bottom, sides and baffle. Download WinISD 0.7: https://www.facebook.com/WinISD/posts/126113234166443 [/quote] Thanks for the advice. I had no idea that spine braces weren't very strong. I will consider some cross bracing. I'm not a big fan of round ports. I don't know why for sure. Maybe I'm just square. Was also considering making the cab sealed. I guess that would be simplest but, I've read that ported/vented cabs will have better more natural sound. Last every one talks about winISD. I will try to download it. You'll have to forgive my ignorance here but what am I to look for while using the software? I am afraid that good results and bad results will look the same to me.

The images in the first post were fairly poor. Sorry about that. Here are some scans that are a little better I hope.

Hello My name is Brian and I am hoping to build a bass cab for myself over the next few months. I've only been playing the bass guitar for about 1 year but I really enjoy it more than guitar or piano. I bought a Hartke A35 combo when I started out and I have no complaints about that amp other than it isn't something to be used on stage for a live show. I recently bought a tc electronics bh250 head. I really like the sound of it so far through my headphones. Where I live there are not any good options for checking out gear (Tokyo is 3 hours away - which isn't easy when you've got two little boys). So, I wanted to make my own bass cabinet. I've read through several wonderful threads on this site and talkbass. In particular there were some threads on here about a basschat 1x12 (which ran 21 glorious pages) and then mkII of that cab (7 pages) which really gave me some ideas to think on. My goals are: 1) fairly portable, +-15kg 2) nice sounding (I'm not looking to recreate godlike bootsteps on the stage, just want a decent sound). 3) Not too expensive and a short parts list because everything is going to have to be shipped to my house. 4) Single speaker (heavily leaning towards the Eminence kappalite 3012HO) 5) Slightly Tall cab. In the future I plan to build a second 1x12 cube shaped cab to go on top of this one if it is necessary. 6) The final product if at all possible will have Grateful Dead Wall of Sound era Bag end cab ambiance (tall order, there) 7) Dimensions: (H x W x D) 610mm x 420mm x 390mm. This should give me a 67L ish cab. Keeping all that in mind I came up with a few sketches. The woodworking end of it shouldn't be too difficult. It will but I've done woodworking and have friends here that can help me out with that aspect. What I CAN'T do is: the math to check if the box that I have come up with could/should be compatible with the Eminence speaker. If there is anyone here that can go over my sketches and give some advice. In particular I'm concerned about the port width. I drew it in as 40mm (4cm) realizing that may need changing. Also the length of the port shelf. In the sketch it is 250 mm. Thanks for the read and for any advice you may have. here are three sketches: 1, original idea 2, updated sketch, 3, close up of the box (baffle not shown)

Hello, My name is Brian. I live in Japan and run a small English school in the middle of Nowhere. I love Japan it is a great place to be but outside of Tokyo it isn't at all what you'd think it would be. I live outside of Tokyo. Well outside of Tokyo. I'm really interested in DIY projects and recently completed 2 cigar box guitars. While not as much fun as bass guitar they do really hit the spot when I feel like jamming sometimes. Living where I do the options for materials are very thin. The home center only sells the cheapest of the cheap ply and often still damp wood. Boo to them for that. I found this site while looking for options for a single driver 12" Bass Cab. I was really impressed with the level of kindness and support that all the members offered. I hope to one day be able to respond in kindness for any and all the support I may receive here. Thanks for letting me join your forum even though I'm not from the UK.