DIYjapan

So I made a second bass cab which I recently posted about. It is more or less the same as the first cab that I made in this thread. I didn't add too many photos to this thread but I was able to make a Youtube video of the second cabs build. I will put a link to the video here. I am not sure if that runs a foul of the Basschat rules or not... if it does then to the admin please let me know and I will happily remove the content. If it is OK then I'd love to share my build with all of you. Cheers. https://youtu.be/cskZJGpgIfs Here is the link to my YouTube video. Thanks.

Here are a few pics. #1 is my first cab (bottom) and it’s new little brother cab(top). #2 this is the rear. You can see the speakon connectors here. #3 a very crude drawing of the wiring.

Wiring: update - please let me know if this is the wrong way. Thanks. so i wired the speakon 1+\- to the driver. Then the 2+\- to the second speakon. I hoped this would let me connect my original bass cab to that second speakon. NO dice. so I wired the 1+\- on speakon to the driver. Then the drivers second connectors to speakon #2’s 1+\- . Then i could connect my second cab without any problems. The drivers are 8 ohm. In this configuration does that make it a 4ohm load for my amp? Or 16?

WIRING Help please. I made a second cabinet to use with this first cabinet. Same design more or less. In the second cabinet I have two neutrik speakon connectors (Neutrik NL4MPR). The driver in both cabs are Eminence Beta 12a-2. I need to know how to wire it all correctly. I was thinking to wire the driver to the 1+/1- on the Neutrik NL4MPR then the 2+/2- on that same Neutrik NL4MPR to the 1+/1- on the second Neutrik NL4MPR. option 2: wire the driver to the 1+/1- on the Neutrik NL4MPR then the extra +/- of the driver to the 1+/1- on the second Neutrik NL4MPR. These are used with Speakon classic pro cable 2 core cable. Urgent!

Got the fdeck HPF pre over the christmas holidays and have had a few chances to try it out with my DIY amp. I will have to say that it really helps keep the driver under control. It may be just me but it seems to be more forceful not necessarily louder but the notes hit more clearly and have a bit more umphff to them. So, my two thumbs up for this small handy little device. Thanks for the heads up.

Hi-pass filter question. I was tempted to buy a 80hz High pass filter from Parts Express to stop any harmful / needless info going to the speaker. If what I've read is correct the 80hz would actually start cutting things off around the 80 hz with w/a slight roll off down to 60hz. I was originally looking for a 50 hz High pass filter but they didn't have one and I haven't got a clue on how to make/design one. Any help ?

What a great looking pair you've got there. Any further word on how they sound on the stage? Looks like they'd fill out most any venue just fine.

Update: Used my set up (TC Electronics BH250, DIY Cab) at a recent outdoor art festival. I was pleased with the sound on the stage and could easily hear myself over the guitar and piano players with out needing any floor monitors or being mic'd to the PA. The sound technician for the show was a fellow bass player and he said that the cab sounded fine. To some `Fine` may not be heavenly praise but to a first time builder I was elated. The bass player from the band that followed us came up and oogled the cab too saying that it looked really good. Several guys said that it reminded them of a traditional style of Japanese cabinet carpentry. Again, I'd really like to express thanks to everyone who helped me on this journey.

So I finished. From wood, screws, parts, speaker and wire to a completed bass cabinet in under 30 days. That's a new land speed record at my house. All in all I am very pleased with the look of the finished cab. After some very brief testing I think it sounds good. Better than the old hartke combo it's replacing (though, I still like my little combo). I learned a lot on this project and for all the great advice on parts, software, how-to's, and encouraging I would really like to thank everyone who contributed. I never could have finished in the fashion and with the confidence that I did without everyone's help. Thanks so very much.

This looks kinda open pore... it's for going around a door to keep the draft out. Think it will work?

Phil, thanks for the kind words. Actually I had planned on continuing the 19mm battens but neglected to add them by accident. Thanks for pointing that out. Put them in tonight. Originally I wanted a screw free front baffle but I think I may use some light foam trimming around the battens and screw in the baffle. There will likely be something that needs a fixed in the future, hopefully not, but likely.

Is this felt deadening enough? It is 10mm thick. I was thinking to glue it in tomorrow morning. Should/can I double it up to 20mm or does it even make a difference? Once I have it all in I plan on glueing the front baffle in place so I can't really go back and redo any of it after I glue the baffle on.

Felt Question: Do you you apply it to the back of the front panel? I was planning on just the back, left/right sides, top, and on top of the port shelf. Will that be alright or Do I apply some to the front panel as well? Second question: how far away should I stay from the opening of the shelf port?

Wow, as always thank you for the prompt and very informative reply to my previous post. The "better" version of window frame supports will definitely be used in my next build (if the wife doesn't explode before this one is finished). Secondly I don't have any clamps larger than 65mm so I decided on battens as a way to secure the sides while the glue along the joints dries. Will see what I can do about removing them after that point in time. Unfortunately it will most likely be difficult at least because I glued them in place. Doh! I should have asked my question earlier.

A seems to support the central area better. But both are braced side to side so maybe not much difference either way?

B.

A

Or this. Let's call it B.

Which does everyone think will work better? This, let's call it A. Or...

Is hot glue a feasible way of fastening the carpet felt? I just ordered some and it came over night. I'm not at the point of cab building yet but hopefully in a week (ahem, or two) I will be putting it all together. Getting excited!

Acoustic foam question: I can get acoustic felt relatively cheap a couple bucks per meter in Japan but acoustic felt is really expensive. I'm looking at 50$range for the one cab. So, do I really need the thick foam or will acoustic felt be alright?

I've been away for awhile but I'm back now and just starting summer holidays. I'm hoping to finish my cab in the coming weeks. I ordered 12mm Latvian birch ply and they'll cut it for me, parts express hooked me up with fast international delivery on small parts, and my beta 12a-2 came in the mail two days ago. Yippee!!

Got this 12mm plywood to make a bookshelf for my kids. Never seen anything like it. It's plywood on the outermost layers but the core is regular boards glued up together. We will see how it works before I consider it for an amp cab but I'm curious if anyone has seen/ used anything similar?

Wiring question: which gauge of wire does everyone use inside of your cabinets? 16? 18? Question 2 is it better to solder the wires directly to the input connectors and the speaker-or- use those push on clips?

12mm or 15mm? Opinions and reasons behind those reasons please. The best option for birch ply is 12mm sheet for $118. Or 15mm for $141. Shipping for either would be the same. I was leaning towards the 15mm for the extra stability and gives me a little extra stiffness in case I mess up/ under brace the box. A plus for 12mm is a slightly lighter box and a little easier on the wallet (but, not too much). I would have to get the bracing right and I'm pretty sure that's doable. I know the fearfuls are all designed for 12mm so it's probably fine. But, bagends look rugged as heck and they are thicker 18mm not 15mm. 18 is out of the question for me.