basstone

13 minutes ago, LukeFRC said:

When I was doing the dry fit I thought that might be a risk of the super tight fit. 

Fully agree. Use as many clamps as you can to get an even closed joint. I think 3 clamps per join is ideal or use a piece of scrap wood under the clamp to help spread the clamping force. If you have any,  G cramps can be used from the speaker, port and horn openings as well.

35 minutes ago, stevie said:

It's a good idea. If you find it does affect the sound, consider just gluing a small piece  of batten near the centre instead.

Yes I also have a smaller piece which may be just as effective in supporting the grille. The full length piece was just self supporting without any glue for a quick trial.

2 hours ago, funkle said:

@basstone I hate to say this...but...

That support you have glued across the front is meant to be across the inside...in the rebate that runs roughly in the same line where you have glued it. 

🤐

However it may still work the way you have done it. @stevie will need to comment. 
 

Or is that an extra bit of batten you have made yourself and glued across the front?

Pete

The support across the middle front of the baffle is not part of the cabinet kit, it's a piece left over from the grille support frame. It does add a considerable amount of stability to the expanded steel grille. It's not glued yet as I just wanted to test it out and may do an audio test just to convince myself that I can't hear any difference with / without it before making a final call.

Just now, basstone said:

Last bit of clamping as the grille frame goes in. Centre cross piece is not glued yet but it does give a lot of extra support to the grille so I will probably keep it.

Trial fit for horn, handle and grille looking good. No issues with pilot holes 🙂 . The grille badge is not fixed in place yet. I do like the silver paint on the grille. Should look even better when the cab is painted satin black Tuff cab. Filling and sanding next

Last bit of clamping as the grille frame goes in. Centre cross piece is not glued yet but it does give a lot of extra support to the grille so I will probably keep it.

Just finished fitting the last panel to  my cabinet (serial no.003). Here are a few photos of the build so far. As Stevie has noted, a dry build to check for fit is a must before applying any glue. Also use as many clamps as possible to ensure an even join. I found that the panels do distort (very) slightly when clamped so good even pressure along the joins is beneficial, I  applied pressure until the glue started to squeeze out of the join evenly along the whole length then stopped. I used 3 clamps  per panel join, one at each end and one in the middle. To avoid damage to the panels and to help even out the pressure I used scraps of wood under the clamps. The 600mm clamps which I've seen recommended for this job are only just long enough to reach from top to bottom of a complete cab so I substituted alloy and steel plate scraps I had to spread the clamping load.

If the T-nut is locked completely solid and you can't get to the back to grip it, can you pull the woofer far enough back from the baffle to get a hacksaw blade in from the edge to cut through the bolt shaft? may be easier than drilling the head off?

The AER compact guitar combos are great, very small and light. I know a couple of jazz guitar players who use these all the time now. Maybe worth keeping a lookout for a secondhand oneas new they are well outside budget? The polytone could possibly be sold to help fund it?

12 hours ago, Chienmortbb said:

It can be done but both add complication. Pedal supply would be a 9V regulator and the aux supplies on the 125ASX2 has a limited current draw, 350mA if I remember rightly.  This is not even enough to power a Zoom B1 ON or B1 Four let alone a Helix. The HX Stomp needs 3A at 9V.

I could run the pre-amp supplies at +/-9V to simplify matters but that would reduce the headroom in the preamp. I have assembled a fixed voltage +/- 15VPSU for the preamps 

Phantom Power could be put in the final unit but for the prototype I want to prove the concept soI am keeping it simple. 

Personal natters are keeping me from the project at the moment but it is progressing if more slowly than I had hoped.

OK I understand and agree it will be good to prove the concept. I am also am aware of the amp module aux power limitations and any external power output would need to take that into account. I have a zoom A3 and B1Xon that I plan to use with the cab and both have current draw of about 100mA  9v measured but are quoted as 500mA in the specs.

It's Looking good and a similar concept that I had in mind, even down to the same power amp module. My only proposed addition would be to consider either phantom power on the balanced input or a DC out to power the effect pedal. Thus removing the need for either batteries or an additional power brick.? Any thoughts?

PAT testing. Would anyone would like their amp and kettle lead PAT tested and labelled for £5, if so I will bring my tester to the Bash?

Do you still have these available?

All being well I'll be there - thoroughly enjoyed previous 2 years 🙂

I run a  gear repair business called Hurstbatch Services, based near Wells. Recently repaired Adrian's i350 Check out my web site:

http://www.hurstbatch.plus.com/

I also do PAT testing

Big thank you to Scrumpy Mike and the rest of the team for putting on another cracking event. Lots of interesting people, gear and fab food!