basstone
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Posts posted by basstone
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Sorry its now sold. I will edit the post title accordingly
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Another, maybe worth looking at. With the two cabs a few options for power / loudness are available. May be open to offers as no bids yet?
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How about this? Certainly cheap and Cardiff not too far from Somerset.
Or this one, a bit further away but maybe?
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It all depends on the style of music, size of venue and loudness of the band. I use a G&K MB500 with either the Basschat BC112 or a GK 2 x 10" adding a GK 1 x 15" if needed. Both 8 ohms so the amp will deliver around 300W in theory. The EA micro will put out about 300W into 8 ohms for comparison. You say you don't want to spend too much, but one idea, as suggested above would be to sell up and consolidate on one rig (plus spare as backup) which would be compact, light weight and do everything you need. The BC112 is a great cab and anything by barefaced would meet your needs and sound great for both upright and electric bass. I would suggest the markbass may be a bit underpowered, maybe look at something that will do 300W into 8 ohms and 500W into 4 ohms in case you need a large venue rig without good PA support.
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This thread seems to have gone quiet. I was looking forward to updates and final plans, as well as maybe a 2 x 8" version 🙂
Any news to report @Phil Starr?
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Fender / Sunn SR8520P powered mixer:
8 balanced mic inputs (with switchable phantom power) /
8 line inputs
1 stereo aux line input
built in reverb and monitor channel (line output)
9 band graphic eq
Compressor / limiter on main output
Rated at 520W into 2 ohms
In good working condition, recently serviced and PAT tested. A good workhorse ideal for a rehearsal room or for small gigs.
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Looks like a home constructed cab fitted with 4 8" big cat speakers (believed to be made for Maplin by Eminence). 8 ohms impedance and probably rated at 100 to 200W. In good condition with heavy duty plastic corners and folding handles on the side. Not particularly heavy for such a big cab. Single TS jack on the back. I'm open to offers.
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Interesting background story. GLWTS
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Ashdown are really good at supporting their customers so your amp is in good hands. Let us know what they find please.
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Sony electret condenser microphone for sale. Model number ECM-31HVC. Powered by on board AA battery (not included) and fitted with a short captive lead terminated with a 3.5mm TS jack. This is a telescopic mic with a foam noise shield and clip designed to be used with video cameras but could also be used wherever unobtrusive reach is desirable such as interviewing or general speech applications.
The microphone comes with its original case and is in good working condition. I'd be happy to post it at cost (£4.00 for tracked second class)
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1970s style 4 string jazz bass for sale. This is not a Fender but is a good copy of a 1970s style block inlay neck bass. Nice sunburst finish with only a couple of minor dings and a lovely feeling straight neck with low action. does everything that you'd expect from a passive jazz bass. Weight is 9.5Lbs (4.3Kg). A good quality usable bass.
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I bought a Celestion BN15-300x from Matt. Great product and a very easy transaction. Thank you
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It may be a combination of corrosion on the socket contacts, loss of contact pressure or a bad joint on the board. It may be worthwhile removing the board, taking the sockets off the board and then removing the connections from the socket body. They are a firm push fit and you don't need to get them all the way out just enough to inspect and clean the contact area and bend them down to increase the contact pressure, or at this point just fit new high quality replacements. When re-soldering them it is also worth cleaning any coating from the PCB tracks around the jack solder pads and spreading the solder connection a bit wider. This with help strengthen the join and mitigate against any track breaks which are most likely right on the jack solder pads. Having done all the above you should have eliminated most of the likely causes of the problem. Good luck
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Same experience here removing carpet from a big bass combo cab. A hot air gun helped but I still ended up doing lots of sanding then finishing using tuffcab paint applied with a foam roller. Looked like new when finished and very durable.
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1 minute ago, lidl e said:
just found this.
Two outputs can be combined to deliver more current (mA) to a pedal. With more and more digital effects on the market there is a growing need for such combinations. In this case the voltage remains unchanged, but the output of two power supply outputs is combined to double the available current. These adapter cables are called current doublers. For example, by combining two nine volts outputs that deliver 100 mA each the current doubler will output nine volts and 200 mA.
that should do the trick. I do have 2 open 300mA outputs.
OK if that is from the manual of your power supply then you're good to go!
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1 minute ago, lidl e said:
does that work? i thought it would double to power but not the mA.
I don't know anything about this stuff! I do have plenty of ports on the PS. So if i use two 9V, both at 300mA, that will give me 600mA?
It all depends on the design of the power supply. If you have a commercial multiple output power supply it might be worth contacting the manufacturer for their advice.
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9 minutes ago, jrixn1 said:
What power supply? If it has multiple outputs, use a "current doubler" cable to combine two outputs (which don't have to be the same current as each other); e.g. use the cable with a 500mA output and a 100mA output to create 600mA.
It's unlikely that this will work unless the power supply specifically has multiple individually rated outputs. Often pedals don't actually run at the rated current so may be worth a try if you must, checking for the power supply overheating or strange behavior. Power supplies are not expensive though so maybe to be safe just get one with a higher output?
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16 hours ago, stevie said:
I think @basstone does amp repairs. Send him a pm and ask.
Indeed I do. I am based in Wookey Hole, so not far from Bristol. I would be happy to have a look to see if it is cost effective or possible to repair it.
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3 hours ago, Phil Starr said:
Yes you will need to subtract those volumes😀
Thanks. that makes sense. What cab volume have you used?
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On 12/07/2023 at 11:45, Phil Starr said:
This may help you decide which is best for you. It's the bass response of both speakers as calculated by winISD @ 100W. Surprisingly both are equally loud but the 8" cab will handle another 100W at this point, adding an extra 3db, and whilst the 6 handles all of the second harmonic upwards equally well there is a lot of extra fundamental with the 8. In a small room at home the 6 sounds way better than you'd expect, light agile and crystal clear and not as bass light as you'd think. Perfect for not annoying neighbours and satisfying to play. The 8 has a more authoritative sound though and is comparable with a much bigger speaker..
I've belatedly started to follow this thread with great interest and have tried to reproduce your frequency response curve in WinISD as above using the fane data and assuming 20l enclosure and 62Hz tuning frequency to establish the same baseline for some tweaking for interest sake. But it does not look the same so I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong or missing, maybe some of the speaker parameters not provided on the Fane spec sheet? I was also thinking that with these small enclosures the volumes of the driver, bracing and the port itself may have an effect. Do you subtract these volumes from the internal cab volume when calculating?
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My experience is similar to above. These sockets are also fitted to good quality Warwick basses. The contacts inside the barrel are very thin and I think they loose their springiness over time and then don't make a reliable connection. They are impossible to repair effectively unlike the old school Switchcraft chassis types With an active bass the connection of the power can give a mighty loud band out of the rig! It's hard to tell the quality of replacements as the cheap Chinese ones look just the same as any other. The good news is that the "cheap" ones seem to last just as well as any others. I always keep a spare one in stock, knowing I will need it sooner rather than later.
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A couple of the top lid screws look a bit proud of the top. Are they loose and have you opened the amp up? It also looks like there are marks on the top cover (only in one photo) or is this a trick of the light? Also just out of interest how old is the amp?
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Is this still available?
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Just now, Paul S said:
Not at the moment.
Shame. GLWTS
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Ashdown RM 500-EVO II 500w Bass Combo, replace speakers
in Repairs and Technical
Posted
Check you've not got any DC on your amp output before connecting new speakers. It is an uncommon but known fault that can happen on Ashdown amps - I know as it happened to me!
Replacement 10" speakers from Ashdown will retain the character of the amp and are not expensive.