MartinB

You can stick the electronics in a pedal, a rack unit, a head, or a combo and they'll still do the same thing. So nothing happened to "bass - lead - amp" - it's just one of many ways to achieve the same thing. We each get to choose the one that suits ourselves best.

The Digbeth pre-amp sounds great and is really versatile, so if the heads are the same but louder then I bet they're superb!

Yeah, probably best to get in touch with Ironstone. I had the same thing happen with a brand new bass, and the manufacturer sent me a replacement pickup (which fixed it).

Could be a demagnetised pole piece. If you play a note on the G string and then bend it, does it get louder as the string gets closer to the D string pole pieces? If you flip the pickup around, does the E string become the odd one out instead?

I can reproduce it - it's a brief crackle as the threshold indicator turns from orange back to green. To hear it, I have to turn the gain right up and the threshold down, play a sustained note and then listen carefully.

I've been using the Bassist for gigs and recording for seven years, and have not heard this noise under normal playing conditions, so I'm not concerned about it.

According to this recent Andertons video, there are finally signs of life at Burns. I'm very interested in a reissue black Bison bass... but it remains to be seen whether it'll actually (a) happen, (b) be a reasonable price, and (c) be a good compromise beween slavish re-creation and sensible modern update 🙈

I stuck the cables in what I thought was the right way round, then tested using panned-left and panned-right signals and realised I'd got them the wrong way round

However on closer inspection just now, I've realised that the end of the cables actually have "L" and "R" embossed in them! Very difficult to see on the clear ones unless the light is at the right angle. I've done my best to get a picture:

The side of the cable with the letter on it should be on the outside, i.e. facing away from your head.

I can understand taking a second banana as a spare, but did you really need a whole box of them?

I bet you could find enough room on your board for one of these...

https://sineeffect.company.site/nanoPara-1-band-EQ-p553975571

So just to speak in general terms, and not implying anything about Basschat's security:
When you sign up to a new site/service, you don't know whether it's got sensible security precautions to guard against password guessing (e.g. lockout/timeout after a small number of failed attempts).
And you also don't know whether your password will be stored securely, i.e. not likely to be leaked and also not easily cracked if it does leak (by being properly encrypted etc.)

So as a general rule of thumb, why not do everything you can to protect yourself?
- Use a strong password; long and complex is best, but otherwise long and simple generally beats short and complex (see table below)
- Use a unique password, so in the event of compromise you'll only have a problem with one site
- Use multi-factor authentication, if available

Illustrative guide to how it long it takes to crack a leaked password:

Terms and conditions apply; your mileage may vary; source: https://www.hivesystems.io/blog/are-your-passwords-in-the-green

I'm not sure 8 characters is still considered "good" in 2023 😟

These look great! IMO all guitars with dark fretboards should have painted headstocks.

11 hours ago, Downunderwonder said:

DIY a cardboard fantastic covered in black duct tape. It doubles as a cab stand so you can hear the wee fella.

It worked for me! 😁

If I had to tune that low, I'd be looking at 35" scale basses

Superb pedal! GLWTS

Welcome! 👋

That thick, punchy bass tone just sounds great and works really well for some genres and songs. It's all over 60's and early 70's soul and funk; it's not just a Jamerson thing. I wasn't even born when this was this sound was in fashion, so it's definitely not about age, nostalgia, or analogue vs digital.

That there is a Vintage Modified Precision Bass V.

Mine's 4.1 kg (9 lb). That style of tortoiseshell is not my favourite, so I swapped for mint green:

Since I got my Keeley Bassist, I haven't been tempted by any other compressor. It just works, with the absolute minimum of fiddling about.

Ampeg's IR loader software also lets you set a "lo cut" (HPF) and "hi cut" (LPF) for each of the cabs - though the manual doesn't indicate the slope of these filters

Yeah - looks really cool, but at that price it's up against some real big hitters. Still - nice to see new stuff from Ampeg!

38 minutes ago, Greg Edwards69 said:

Google just found this for me. Could be useful?

The slope (3 dB/oct) is a fair bit shallower than the common ones for bass, so depending on what you want it for, it may be too subtle.

Micro Thumpinator 2: 36 dB/oct

VONG-Filterung: 12 dB/oct variable and 24 dB/oct below 30 Hz

Fdeck HPF-Pre: 12 dB/oct, or 12 dB/oct variable and 24 dB/oct below 35 Hz on the series 3 models
Broughton HPF: 12 dB/oct

Mini-HP-VONG: 12 dB/oct

I'm guessing there's a limit to what can be achieved without a powered circuit

That's the tube channel with:
Drive 7
Bass 7
Lo-mid 7 (switch in "up" position)
Everything else flat

I've gotta say the tube channel does a pretty solid impression of the splatty sound that I associate with 60s soul. I'm not even using flatwounds here:

Update: 9 months later, I'm still using the DB-PRE. I'm mostly using a core tone that's slightly dirty, with loads of low-mid punch:

Tube channel

Bass 7
Lo-mid 7 (switch in "up" position)
Hi-mid 6
Treble 5
Drive 7

A great piece of kit for the money!