Tobe

pm'd

57 minutes ago, TRBboy said:

Okay folks, so internal dimensions are H574 x W434 x D267mm. Ports are 102 ID x 152mm long.

 

Just been looking at it again, and the 'ambient' noise seems to have gone....? There is still a buzzing when played, most noticeable at low volume. Doesn't seem to happen on higher notes, or not as noticeably, worst on anything below open E string. 

 

I've checked for anything loose but can't find anything. It does seem like it could be something loose, but definitely seems to be the actual speaker. Can't find any damage to the cone or suspension... Puzzling.

 

It sounds really good apart from this infernal noise! 🤬

15 minutes ago, Bill Fitzmaurice said:

That's about 60L tuned to 55Hz. The LaVoce is fine with that. The Pulse is not.

Tracking down noise is easy. Download a sine wave generator program or app, play it through the rig, slowly sweep the sine wave tone starting at 50Hz.

I posted above before reading these two posts 😁  but glad you confirmed the size 👍

On 15/04/2024 at 16:54, stevie said:

The internal volume of the Trace 1153 is approximately 90 litres and and it's tuned to 45Hz. I modelled both drivers before recommending the Faital Pro. It's a good, modern driver. If you can get it for a good price, you should.

 

Modelling is only useful if you know what you're aiming for. Otherwise, it's a trip down a rabbit hole.

But this isn't a 1153 cab.

This is a modified combo cab which is much smaller. I have both the combo and the 1153. 

6 hours ago, Bassfinger said:

Indeed, you're right on the money. T'was a cheeky swipe at the outrage threads about neck shimming can incite.

 

I was most definitely not being unkind to @Tobe in any way.

Apologies matey, I think I need a holiday tbh 🤭  😁

I have a Am Std Jazz that suffered a Eb dead spot, I shimmed for bridge reasons intially, I put the shim directly under the back two screws, so the screws go through the shim rather than right up at the body, and low and behold the dead spot practically disappeared, I did this in 2005 and still no ski jump. 

1 minute ago, Acebassmusic said:

 

I second @PaulThePlug and think its a reference to another thread that was discussing the merits (or not) of shimming a neck....it all went a bit "Talkbass" on us 🤣

Ah, not seen that one! might be for the best by the sounds of it 😁

2 minutes ago, PaulThePlug said:

I think it was @Bassfinger having a sneaky quip following recent posts on neck shimming ala little bit of something at the back of the pocket v's full pocket wedge shim and the possibility and associated causes of the 'ol Ski Jump neck etc... I don't belive twas a slight to you.

Ah ok 👍 

2 minutes ago, Bassfinger said:

Oh my word, that's torn it! 🫣

I don't even know what that means. 

But why not quote my whole sentence? or are you calling me a liar? 

Try shim the heel of the neck, it solved my dead spot. 

19 hours ago, Downunderwonder said:

 

Right there above. Crap may be an exaggeration of budget but Mesa is definitely not budget, and neither is Trace thanks to Peavey's resurrection.

What makes you think they're not budget? Do they make their own in house IC's and power modules etc to some spec beyond everyone else? or are they using the same mass produced Chinese components that Behringer use in their stuff but charging a premium for the name?

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1 minute ago, ben4343 said:

I tried originally on the adaptor (the brick was more of a last ditch alternative!). Mostly, it doesn't work, but occasionally fades in and then out, with the power light remaining on 🤷‍♂️

Interesting 🤔  There could be a fault with the adapter!  or even possibly the Amp. If I was closer I'd sort it. First job is to try a different adapter, then go from there

14 minutes ago, ben4343 said:

I think you are right; pretty obvious now you say it... The brick will output 1000 mA on the 18V channel, but it looks like the Hotone needs 1.5A, so I am 500 mA shy.

 

What's weird is that the Hotone PA says it will take 100-240V; maybe that's clap?

 

 

Yes, it's the current draw that's the problem 👍  Don't worry about the input voltage on adapter it will be auto-sensing. But the good news is that adapter should work on your Hotone, give it a whirl 😁

9 hours ago, ben4343 said:

One final bit to coagulate the narrative; I have a power brick that works perfectly for my pedals, and has a couple of 18V outputs. The Hotone micro amp ostensibly runs off an 18V plug, but also fails to output (it still turns on just fine though...!) when powered by the brick. I was surprised at this, as I thought the brick might smooth everything out...

Sounds like the power brick won't supply enough current for the Hotone, it's not just about the 18v, 

For example.. The Ernie Ball Power brick supplies 300mA, pedals are usually low current draw and work fine on that, but the Hotone probably requires more than 3x that at 1000mA, or even 1.5A, so yes it may light up, but it won't operate. Do you have the original power adapter for the Hotone by any chance? 

9 hours ago, ben4343 said:

Thanks for the replies all. Seems my observations match up with some floated theories.

 

I suppose that, given enough examples, sometimes a piece of equipment that is unusually more voltage demanding will come across a voltage that is on the low side, and just not work quite as expected. Shame. Any solutions to this, or do I just have to accept sometimes gear just won't work internationally? I work with a physicist and he wondered if the mismatched AC might be confusing a transformer somewhere.

The answer is to get the correct voltage tap on the transformer primary if available on the equipment, or a new transformer unfortunately.

(If you choose to go down this route, get a good Tech who knows exactly what they're doing though, Don't attempt this yourself)


And, you can't confuse a transformer, all they do is transform what comes in.. to a given voltage out, if the wrong voltage is going in, then wrong voltage is coming out, simple.
but it's the circuits thereafter that can suffer to operate correctly. 

Norway is not in the EU. and it's power is 220v, but because of EEA trading, they rounded that upto 230v too. 

https://www.se.com/uk/en/faqs/FA144717/

Markbass have switch mode power supplies, yet still build amps for 230v and 240v for region of sale, and even say that due to homologation issues voltage can't be changed.
http://www.markbass.it/product-detail/little-mark-iv/

As for valve amps,  lets take the Fender Blues junior for example, it has taps for 230v and 240v,  They come as standard wired EUR 230v.  the B+ should be 329v, but because of the 230v tap, it's often over 340v, which pushes the bias over 100% plate disapation on a Class A/B fixed bias amp, that should be max 70%. Fender run these hot anyway but with the wrong voltage many have cooked and melted components and boards.  Changed to 240v tap runs it at the correct B+ voltage at 329v, and changinging one resistor get the bias at approx 70%. and valves, components don't cook to death anymore.. No brainer.

But if you have money to burn on valves/components then you carry on 🙂👍

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On 30/04/2022 at 20:53, Geek99 said:

Don’t think 10v will make much difference 

a lot of kit is flagged as 220-240 anyway 

That usually means it either has auto sensing voltage, or has 220v, 230v and 240v taps,  My GK amp is labelled 220-240 but has taps for the different voltages.

The UK has never been 230v, all government homogenization lies. It's always been 240v. My home voltage is usually around 246v, and often over 250v, but I've never seen it under 240v ever, it's always been the same since we've been here from the late 60's
I only ever buy amps that have a 240v tap, especially valve amps that are more sensitive to voltage variations.
Norway is 220v, but again due to EEA homogenization lies, everything was rounded up to 230v, but if you factor in the variations, I would never advise running a 220v appliance here in the UK. and I would imagine a 240v tapped appliance would not operate at its best at 220v, especially if the appliance has a sensitive protection circuits. 

These penny pinching companies need to offer the correct voltage or at least a transformer tap for the country it's for!  230v is NOT the UK voltage. 

Pm'd

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