Tobe

Apologies matey, I think I need a holiday tbh 🤭 😁

I have a Am Std Jazz that suffered a Eb dead spot, I shimmed for bridge reasons intially, I put the shim directly under the back two screws, so the screws go through the shim rather than right up at the body, and low and behold the dead spot practically disappeared, I did this in 2005 and still no ski jump.

Ah, not seen that one! might be for the best by the sounds of it 😁

Ah ok 👍

I don't even know what that means. But why not quote my whole sentence? or are you calling me a liar?

Try shim the heel of the neck, it solved my dead spot.

What makes you think they're not budget? Do they make their own in house IC's and power modules etc to some spec beyond everyone else? or are they using the same mass produced Chinese components that Behringer use in their stuff but charging a premium for the name?

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Interesting 🤔 There could be a fault with the adapter! or even possibly the Amp. If I was closer I'd sort it. First job is to try a different adapter, then go from there

Yes, it's the current draw that's the problem 👍 Don't worry about the input voltage on adapter it will be auto-sensing. But the good news is that adapter should work on your Hotone, give it a whirl 😁

Sounds like the power brick won't supply enough current for the Hotone, it's not just about the 18v, For example.. The Ernie Ball Power brick supplies 300mA, pedals are usually low current draw and work fine on that, but the Hotone probably requires more than 3x that at 1000mA, or even 1.5A, so yes it may light up, but it won't operate. Do you have the original power adapter for the Hotone by any chance?

The answer is to get the correct voltage tap on the transformer primary if available on the equipment, or a new transformer unfortunately. (If you choose to go down this route, get a good Tech who knows exactly what they're doing though, Don't attempt this yourself) And, you can't confuse a transformer, all they do is transform what comes in.. to a given voltage out, if the wrong voltage is going in, then wrong voltage is coming out, simple. but it's the circuits thereafter that can suffer to operate correctly.

Norway is not in the EU. and it's power is 220v, but because of EEA trading, they rounded that upto 230v too. https://www.se.com/uk/en/faqs/FA144717/

Markbass have switch mode power supplies, yet still build amps for 230v and 240v for region of sale, and even say that due to homologation issues voltage can't be changed. http://www.markbass.it/product-detail/little-mark-iv/ As for valve amps, lets take the Fender Blues junior for example, it has taps for 230v and 240v, They come as standard wired EUR 230v. the B+ should be 329v, but because of the 230v tap, it's often over 340v, which pushes the bias over 100% plate disapation on a Class A/B fixed bias amp, that should be max 70%. Fender run these hot anyway but with the wrong voltage many have cooked and melted components and boards. Changed to 240v tap runs it at the correct B+ voltage at 329v, and changinging one resistor get the bias at approx 70%. and valves, components don't cook to death anymore.. No brainer. But if you have money to burn on valves/components then you carry on 🙂👍

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That usually means it either has auto sensing voltage, or has 220v, 230v and 240v taps, My GK amp is labelled 220-240 but has taps for the different voltages.

The UK has never been 230v, all government homogenization lies. It's always been 240v. My home voltage is usually around 246v, and often over 250v, but I've never seen it under 240v ever, it's always been the same since we've been here from the late 60's I only ever buy amps that have a 240v tap, especially valve amps that are more sensitive to voltage variations. Norway is 220v, but again due to EEA homogenization lies, everything was rounded up to 230v, but if you factor in the variations, I would never advise running a 220v appliance here in the UK. and I would imagine a 240v tapped appliance would not operate at its best at 220v, especially if the appliance has a sensitive protection circuits. These penny pinching companies need to offer the correct voltage or at least a transformer tap for the country it's for! 230v is NOT the UK voltage.

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Why do you think truss rods are user serviceable? It's because wood necks move all the time with season and/or humidity, it's no big deal. It's the nature of wood in different enviroments, its supposed to be a tree located in one part of the world, not a guitar touring the globe! Many world touring acts are always adjusting their instruments, its part of it. Some tour with guitar techs if they're not savy to doing it themselves. I think it was Steve Harris I read about on tour somewhere talking about his neck moving all over the place, he took his bass out of case somewhere to find his action was about half inch. Older instruments without graphite rod support can move massively. I've even seen frets lifting and fretboards shrink so that the fret ends stick out of the edge of the fretboard, only to be fine again when humidity is better. The joys of wood. You can't even blame Fender for that!!

Just had a listen. It is a sequenced synthbass part, but easy to play on bass. the notes are basically C major pentatonic with added 7. the riff resolves into Am. going up C-G D-A (if you struggle to play every note just pull off the G to D open, then hammer on A) and coming down B A G E. then resolve into squence A - E - D - C - G - D -C .