SpondonBassed

[quote name='yorks5stringer' timestamp='1508437349' post='3392249']
Shame but think they could have found another band who look and sound the same...?
[/quote]

I see what you've done there. Unfortunate choice of band name in this instance.

I hope they recover their schedule and manage to cover their losses. It isn't all that great for the fans either but my thoughts are with the band.

http://www.swindonadvertiser.co.uk/news/15599254.Placebo_cancel_Tuesday_s_Swindon_gig_at_the_Oasis/:
From the article - "The band have temporarily halted their 20 Years of Placebo tour while lead singer Brian Molko sees a specialist and finds out what's causing the vocal issues."

Have they really been on tour for twenty years? How does that work?

[quote name='EliasMooseblaster' timestamp='1508424895' post='3392118']
I have been using lead-free solder, and my iron melts that easily enough, but then I think I paid all of a fiver for it in Maplin. Perhaps it's worth me investing in some of the fancy silver stuff!
[/quote]

That suggests that you aren't getting the heat to where the fillet metal - the solder itself - is quickly enough. The pot back-shells may be sucking heat faster than your iron can supply it. I don't see any value in replacing the solder if your iron is working with the stuff you've got.

It might also be that the wires are tied around the posts in addition to being soldered. Some people I know like to make a secure mechanical contact before applying any solder at all. If you have a desoldering tool to take the solder right off the connection it should be immediately apparent if this is so.

Going back to the original question - is there an industrial strength solder - the answer is yes.

There are two that I know off the top of my head but I know of no situation where they have been used in electrical applications. They are Silver Soldering and Brazing. The temperatures necessary to melt the filler metals (brass in the case of brazing) are high enough to destroy most electrical components very quickly. They are more for mechanical applications where a solid joint is required without melting of the parent metals.

Silver Soldering;
http://www.pollymodelengineering.co.uk/global/technical-notes/basic-silver-soldering.asp

Brazing;
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/brazingjoints.htm

If this is already dealt with in another topic please forgive me and reply with a link to it here.

I have two unknown-make humbuckers on my Pitbull. I like the sounds they make in the simple configuration that was in the kit's wiring diagram but I am interested in opening up the options as far as possible without putting in a preamp.

I know I can split the output of the coils as they have four wires each. What I am not sure about is how many different ways the separated coils can be wired and switched and the benefits that result. Currently there are four pots wired as separate volume and tone for each humbucker.

Can anyone suggest what might be needed in terms of a wiring scheme and additional components to expand the range of sounds I can get from the pick-ups supplied please? It's something I'd like to understand better.

If it helps to see the bass a link to its assembly topic is in the sig file below but to be kind to mobile 'phone users (a first for me!) here it is;
[url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/308684-ibanez-tribute-kit/"]http://basschat.co.u...ez-tribute-kit/[/url]

Like Discreet says ^

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1508327758' post='3391364']
I've been using an 18W soldering iron for thirty years and never had a problem.

As has been said, melting some fresh solder onto the iron bit can help, but what I always find helps with stubborn, old joints, is melting fresh solder right onto the old solder. I know it might seem odd, adding solder to an area where you want to remove it, but it has always worked everytime for me.
[/quote]

That's because the additional metal from your new solder absorbs heat and then that extra heat is transferred to the joint almost instantly through conduction through the larger contact area that is made by the softened metal.

With lead free solder it is worth paying for the higher grade one with silver in it. It flows and conducts much better.

[quote name='nilebodgers' timestamp='1508271387' post='3391070']
A higher wattage iron makes it easier - I have a 50W Weller TCP and that can heat a localised area on a pot very quickly indeed. A solder-sucker and/or de-soldering braid can get the old stuff off cleanly.

I've managed to steer clear of lead-free solder up to now, last time I did anything professional in electronics was 2002 and we were still using lead (at least for small-scale production). I've got a big supply of standard 60/40 tin/lead for my personal use which will probably see me out :-)
[/quote]

True but a larger soldering bit on your iron can improve results as it physically holds more heat and does not require topping up from the electricity immediately it is applied. If the iron is not hitting the melting point however neither approach will work.

[quote name='EliasMooseblaster' timestamp='1508245072' post='3390783']
This might be the daftest question I've ever asked on (this part of*) Basschat, but it's been bothering me for days now: is there a tougher grade of solder, with a higher melting point, that some manufacturers use in their instruments?

I opened up my Hagstrom in the hope of changing the pot configuration, and for the life of me, I can seem to unsolder the original joints! I'm fairly sure the soldering iron is fine - it's 25W, I've used it for plenty of jobs in the past, and it's still melting the solder in my coil. I know heat is being transferred because I can feel the casing of the pots getting hot. Is there something else I've missed?


*[size=3]I've probably asked something really chuffing stupid on other boards...[/size]
[/quote]

Possibly lead free solder has been used and your iron isn't hitting the melting point. That or you are using too fine a tip and all of the heat disipates too quickly into the parent metal when you strike the joint.

[quote name='Dr.Dave' timestamp='1508422122' post='3392088']
...Mostly all done with a degree of aggression I only usually feel when using automatic check out tills , seeing or hearing the words 'Kanye West' or trying to get through on the phone to British Gas.
[/quote]

Nicely descriptive. I have a very clear idea of where your head is at from those three examples.

This is a good topic, thanks UKL for posting. I want to start in on singing and playing at the same time so I am cherry picking for some songs to start me off.

An artist by the name of Rob Strong inspired me in the Harcourt Hotel basement, Dublin, thirty years or more back but I gave up the band before doing owt about it.

Hahahahaha.

I like the way it looks amongst the plain soft furnishings. Please don't take that as an opinion on your choice of home decor, you've seen my hovel. On its own I was finding the burl a bit busy, I hope you'll forgive me for saying. I wouldn't judge it on that alone however. Also, the hardware will make the whole thing gel.

It's a belter!

That's quite a nice tint in the top. It makes it look like an expensive cake with marbled icing, perfectly applied. I want to take a big big bite.

Tasteful in more ways than one. The sound on this has much to live up to but I have every confidence in your ability seeing what you've done so far.

[quote name='dmccombe7' timestamp='1508414856' post='3392017']
Not seen that one but i'm now curious.
[/quote]

You've not seen Tina's frog dance? Gosh you've led a sheltered life.

Abe;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDwaAZp73tY

Tina:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLcS8auWVnY

If Tina spanked as well then we'd be right up the topic.

Welcome Basshound. Is yours the composite L series Steinberger?

[quote name='Conan' timestamp='1508330728' post='3391402']
It's kind of a trademark of his. I think it's fun, but I can see how it would come across as a bit like the bass equivalent of Dad Dancing...
[/quote]

It's a bit like Tina Weymouth's [i]Frog Dance[/i] when the big lad lets loose and spanks his plank whilst leaping about the stage. Not sure who is the sexier of the two though.

[quote name='Rich' timestamp='1508367694' post='3391806']
I sense a wee bit of a pattern emerging
[/quote]

Yet I don't think that's as many critics as with the Squier Jazz...?

I am looking forward to the site migration now as I should be able to search within text and compare numbers by make and model. It tired me out just typing that so on reflection, perhaps someone else could do that.

Jools was on the news this morning announcing a collaboration and tour with[size=4] José Feliciano. He was saying that they hit it off after Jose appeared on [i]Later.[/i][/size] The small bit of playing that I heard was dominated by piano. I don't think I'll be pursuing that one despite Jose's excellent reputation.

[size=4]https://www.list.co.uk/article/95670-jools-holland-teams-up-with-jose-feliciano-for-new-lp/[/size]

Even at this stage of finish it's a piece of art. It needn't play a single note to earn pride of place in someone's collection. It will though no doubt. The sound should be special too.

I'm always impressed by your builds.

Welcome Stratocaster.

[quote name='KingPrawn' timestamp='1508307960' post='3391157']
I recently owned a Jeff Berlin 5 string by Cort. It had all the right ingredients good hardware, pickups etc. However i just hated it! From the moment I plugged it in and played it, it was basically a plank. For me it lacked presence or character.It really didn't make sense as I'm sure there are loads of players using them. It's not as if Cort are not a reputable manufacturer I was so glad to move it on. I know we can be fickled bunch at times, so I was wondering what bass you've owned that just didn't work for you?
[/quote]

A Fender Squier fretless jazz put me off all Fenders forever. While some of the issues I had would not be present on other Fenders, the massive headstock always would. I always felt like I was in a remake of "The Plank".

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUbcaE44cSw

Welcome Sam.

[quote name='honza992' timestamp='1507485718' post='3385804']
Thanks SB. I've never seen those heli coil inserts before. They look fantastic, a really elegant solution. A quick google search shows amazon sells an M5 kit for £13 including a tap, drill bit etc etc:

[url="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-127589-Thread-Repair-Helicoil/dp/B001C7QYB4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1507484881&sr=8-2&keywords=helicoil+kit"]https://www.amazon.c...ds=helicoil+kit[/url]

I think I would still want to have the tap in a drill press so that it was at 90 degrees to the wood. I may well give it a try at some point.



Another possible solution has occured to me. The inserts I've been using are hex-driven. So one method I tried in the past was to put a short piece of hex rod into my drill press then drive the insert into the neck using that. The problem I found was that the M5 threaded inserts (which I buy from here [url="http://www.theinsertcompany.com/index.php"]http://www.theinsert...y.com/index.php[/url] ) are supposedly sized for an M5 allen key. However either the hex hole in the insert isn't exactly 5mm or the hex rod I had wasn't accurately 5mm, but there was so much slop that the insert wasn't being driven in at 90 degrees. It occurs to me though that maybe buying 4.5mm hex rod (or alternatively a 4.5mm allen key then cutting off the short side) then sanding it down so that it was a tight fit in the insert would also work. Again, I'll give it a go at some point.
[/quote]

I hope I haven't misled you into thinking that the links I provided are for helicoils. They aren't. They are for solid inserts. The link you posted is suitable for wood as well.

This link shows the helicoil a bit better;
[url="http://www.toolsinstock.com/search?q=helicoil+birmingham"]http://www.toolsinst...coil+birmingham[/url]

I shouldn't have mentioned them in retrospect as they really only work for metal parts. It was the question of how they are driven into the parent component that made me think of them. If you look closely at the third photo down you can see where there is a notch in the wire insert to allow the tang to be broken off.

I can only think of heli-coil inserts used in light engineering. They have an internal tang that provides the drive when installing the insert. The tang is then snapped off with a reverse twist of the installation tool. It is sometimes called a wire insert as it is fabricated from wire that has the inside and outside thread forms in cross section.

Probably not suitable for wood. They used to be used for things like engine exhaust manifold studs where they've pulled the old thread out from the head.

This might help;
[url="http://www.lawsonproducts.com/images/DV_WebLarge_P_635_LD2.jpg"]https://www.lawsonpro...e_P_635_LD2.jpg[/url]
[url="https://www.lawsonproducts.com/lawson/Wood-Thread-Insert/96747.lp"]https://www.lawsonpr...Insert/96747.lp[/url]

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1507303970' post='3384670']
Not exactly family friendly all gathered around a laptop either is it?
[/quote]

No. In fairness however, today's laptops have colour, HD, surround sound and are bigger than the screens that folk watched the coronation on.

https://www.scienceandsociety.co.uk/results.asp?image=10463593&itemw=4&itemf=0001&itemstep=1&itemx=27

I use my computer as a computer and my TV as a TV. Sorry.