Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

CletePurcel

Member
  • Posts

    36
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by CletePurcel

  1. Thanks for the help. It does/didn't buzz when I played open or at last fret. The neck is slightly concave which I guess is what it should be. It is a bit colder in the room today - could it be temperature related?
  2. I have checked this and don't think this is it. The spring on the G seems just as tight as the others and isn't rattling around or anything.
  3. As I understand it the problem is that the CDs and mp3s are often mastered to be for a particular market (like ipods and earphones) so the sound is often compressed and often sounds pretty bad compared with the original. The loudness wars.So it sometimes doesn't matter if you convert your CD to an mp3 or a full information FLAC file because it will still sound compressed and compromised compared with the original. If I compare, say, a CD of Joni Mitchell to the same music I have on vinyl it is like night and day even played through the same system.She even commented on it herself that she was appalled at what the industry was doing to her music. A lot of this is also subjective and some people can't tell the difference in any case or don't care which is fine.
  4. Well it is not buzzing today, but it was yesterday.
  5. I have several different listening modes depending on the situation. In order from best to worst: The best is properly produced vinyl through a hifi separates system. Then some CD through same system. CDs are very hit and miss depending on final mixing and mastering. Then mp3s/flac via my PC and studio monitors. Then mp3s/flac via an ipod/phone/tablet into a docking station/headphones I also have a subscription to google play music, so I can listen to practically anything via my phone or tablet into my hifi, docking station, pc or tablet. I think hifi separates probably cannot be beaten, but it is probably good that we have so much choice in how we listen.
  6. Thanks, discreet. I still think the Rumbles are probably the best bet. Just saw these TC ones which I hadn't even heard of before. I might give one a try just for the record.
  7. I'm taking it back tomorrow so hopefully it will be sorted soon.
  8. I'm going to try the Fenders on Monday. They are still at the top of my list. I also saw that the shop has the tc electronics bg250 series. I might try those as well. Anyone know anything about them? The cheapest one is quite small and light but has the possibility to add another cab. And it's only £250 for 250 watts. I'm also intrigued by the effects app that loads into the amp by mobile phone.
  9. No the buzz is coming through the monitors.
  10. I have tried raising the saddle but it required quite a few turns and the string is now higher than the others and it is still a bit buzzy. I think I will take it back to the shop. Thanks for all the tips.
  11. [quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1457193622' post='2996247'] buzzing which is worst at the end of the neck beyond the 12th fret suggests to me that the neck relief might have increased a little too. [/quote] what does that mean exactly?
  12. Thanks. I'll see if I can figure it out.
  13. It seems fairly buzzy all the way along, but it gets noticeably worse as I move up the fretboard especially after the 12 fret. Eyeballing the strings the G seems a bit lower than the others too.
  14. I am a newbie bass player. I bought a new Ibanez SR500 a couple of weeks ago from a local store. I like it and it sounds great. Recently the G string has started buzzing slightly but annoyingly. I guess the guitar has acclimatised to my centrally heated house and unsettled itself. My question is whether I should just try raise the string myself by adjusting the bridge or whether I should now go back to the shop and get it set up. Everything else seems fine though. Never having owned a bass before what do people normally do when this sort of thing happens? Cheers.
  15. Trade value £300 - now £275 Selling a Strymon Timeline. Barely used. Has original box, user guide, power supply. Excellent condition. Paypal accepted. Price includes insured postage. [attachment=213804:20160303_124155.jpg] [attachment=213805:20160303_124147.jpg]
  16. I think considering the price structure of the Rumbles that the 500 now makes the most sense. From what I've read on various forums you should go for the maximum wattage you can afford to be future-proofed. The price at the store is about £220 for the 100, £375 for the 200 and £450 for the 500. So it really only boils down to a choice between saving some money and getting the 100 (and maybe regretting it later) or splashing out now for the 500. The 200 doesn't seem to sit right when the gap in price is so small between the 200 and the 500 unless there is a big difference in the sound. Unfortunately the store only has the 100 and 200 and not the 500 in stock. I am going to try the 100 and 200 and if I like the sound (which I am sure I will) I think I will just order the 500. Thanks for all your helpful replies.
  17. Hmmm. The 500 is only £75 more than the 200.
  18. I guess there are two things putting me off the 200. It is only 149W unless you buy another speaker and it is already nearly £200 more than the 100. If I'm going to need another speaker to get the full benefit maybe it would be as well getting a separate head and cab now rather than getting by with the 100. On the other hand the 100 doesn't have the capacity to add another speaker as far as I can tell ...
  19. Thanks everyone I will try different amps but it looks like the Rumble 100 will be at the top of the list.
  20. The Rumble 100 is looking more of a steal at only £220. The 200 is significantly more expensive, but still within my budget.
×
×
  • Create New...