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totorbass

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Posts posted by totorbass

  1. I cut the treble on my stingray bass and use a keeley bass comp then a custom made box with an OC2 clone into a mountainking megalith clone (into a phase 45 clone if wanted), then a robot factory meatwad EF (meatball clone) then delay if wanted. 

    This sounds very good but is quite hard to tame. If I want Something softer and easier to master I replace the Megalith by an Aguilar agro with saturation all the way up.

  2. 4 hours ago, EliasMooseblaster said:

    Was this the "technically the first 5-string" bass that was designed to be tuned E-C? It does seem like a bit of an own goal to go to the trouble of extending the instrument's range with the extra string, to then simultaneously cut short its range by stopping the neck at the 15th fret...

    Maybe they had concerns about string tension effects on the neck? 

    • Like 1
  3. I own a 1512L for years, and am very satisfied with its sound and power, nevertheless they are quite expensive for what they are. the finish is far from meticulous, and I burned a lot of tweeters (Jorg gave me some) before realizing mine has NO FILTERING !!!! (a joke, said a tech I know, happily I don't have a big need for tweeters after all). I got it for very little money so it is fine, but otherwise  won't be very pleased, if I had put a thousand in this one.

     

    edit. It has a very good sensitivity. 103db on the paper I Believe.

    • Like 1
  4. 12 hours ago, Bluewine said:

    Giving notice is pretty serious, depending on the type of band and how long you've been with the band.

    Please share some ideas or examples.

    Blue

    FB_IMG_1545750565624.jpg

    Incriminate anything except the other members (yourself, fatality, tendinitis...)

    Sorry mates, but I've been too long holding this piece of unbalanced wood to avoid neckdive and a broken headstock, I feel tired of it,  and need something else now. All in all we had a very good time together.

    • Haha 1
  5. 21 hours ago, thegummy said:

     

    Would you put rounds on the maple board bass to further exaggerate the brightness and flats on the rosewood to further exaggerate the warmth?

    Or put the the rounds on the maple board bass to slightly tame the brightness back in and the flats on the maple board bass to "brighten" it up?

    I think you got confused in the second line, am I wrong? 

     

    By the way I'd more go rw -flats, but mixing is interesting too: I like my Stingray with dead Rotosounds and NYXLs. (sorry I just have a RW precision)

  6. 6 hours ago, Jono Bolton said:

    The string makes contact with the fret, not the fingerboard. That the fingerboard material makes a difference to the tone is a myth IMO. The only thing that might make a difference to the sound is the fact that maple fingerboards are usually lacquered and will potentially resonate less, but the difference would be marginal.

    Even if we talk about Precision basses, as a long time Musicman enthusiast I cannot agree with you. Fingerboard makes a big difference (I even swapped necks sometimes to be sure). (most of maple Musicman FBs are not lacquered).

  7. On ‎20‎/‎01‎/‎2019 at 20:48, NJE said:

    This above.....I sadly have done a few comparisons over the years and Elixirs always win out over the course of a year. Depending on the brand I compared with, the savings changed, but against using EB Slinky’s I reckon I saved about £20, and I dread to think what that would be against something like rotosounds which I wouldn’t keep on longer than one practice and a sweaty gig.

    D’Addario NYXL strings are well worth a look too, they aren’t advertised as long life, but they outlast every other kind of non coated string I have used by a country mile.

    They sound good even when they are old, but lose quite a bit of brightness. And they are not cheap. I use them anyway. XL's are very consistent, I prefer them to Fenders.

    On a Precision I find that Rotosounds RS66ld are very good for an old school honky thumpy sound, and I Don't feel like changing them often.

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