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R.I.P.

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Posts posted by R.I.P.

  1. [quote name='Wonky2' timestamp='1451039998' post='2937943']
    http://youtu.be/3zzwbYyvWiU

    Not strictly a christmas song i supose but sure is for me , love this song to bits for its feel and sound.... Great fun...

    All around my hat - Steeleye Span

    Merry christmas folks. ( no pun intended;) )
    [/quote]
    Very cool song!.....Merry Christmas

  2. [quote name='ped' timestamp='1450735553' post='2935420']


    Those are my 'Tuner Friends' - they are employed to maintain my required tunings.

    [url=https://flic.kr/p/dsvcWd][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/dsvcWd]Vigier Passion GK[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/chiscocks/]Christopher Hiscocks[/url], on Flickr
    [/quote]

    Nice!!....I need to hire some to help me play better

  3. [quote name='ezbass' timestamp='1450457365' post='2933067']
    They are becoming rarer in the for sale section, but keep an eye out for the original US MM SUB. Great basses, which tend to go for around the £350-£400 mark.

    Of the Sterling SUB, I like the look of the Sea Foam Green one.
    [/quote]
    +1....if you can afford a few more bucks this would be the way to go. Or look at used Ray34's

    But for the money, the Sterling SUB's are great basses. You won't be disappointed

  4. [quote name='alyctes' timestamp='1450651416' post='2934672']


    Brilliant!

    Someone really ought to do this.
    [/quote]
    Agreed.....I got to say though, after 30 years of playing I never even bought my 1st tuner until a few years ago


  5. [quote name='Paul S' timestamp='1440085718' post='2848187']
    Very interesting. I have a 'project' Washburn Quantum that needs a refin. but all those angles scare me :) This could be the answer.

    Do you lacquer it afterwards?
    [/quote]

    From what I was told they did several clear coats. It's a very solid durable finish. Just like as if it were painted.

    Total cost if anyone is curious was $175.00 (U.S. money)

  6. [quote name='BassApprentice' timestamp='1440085103' post='2848179']
    How weird, I just started a topic on dipping a bass this afternoon too.

    Where did you get the stuff to hydro dip your bass from?
    [/quote]
    I noticed that to after I created this thread. I love the dip by the way.

    Well, I did not do the Hydro Dipping myself. There are a few shops in town that was willing to take on the challenge.

    But there are kits available that you can do this type of work at home. The ones I seen were for mostly smaller items but I'm sure the are larger kits for guitars and such.

  7. I don’t know if there I much to add to this thread, but I thought I would share a project I just finished.

    This is a Ray34CA. When I purchased the bass I didn’t think the Slab Body would be much of a bother. After owning it for about 8 months I felt that I wanted to keep the bass but the body style wasn’t for me.

    So I decided to do some wood work in the forearm area to provide some relief and also in the belly area to lighten up the bass.

    After I did the wood work I didn’t want to go with the usual natural or paint finishes, so I decided to go with a Carbon Fiber look. The next step was how to do it.

    After researching air brushing and carbon fiber wrap. I was introduced to Hydro Dipping as a possibility.

    The end result is a Hydro Dipped, Carbon Fiber look body with vintage jazz knobs and Grover tuners. P/U and preamp are stock.

    Pics of before and after shots below

    I hope you like it.

  8. [quote name='Skybone' timestamp='1439825903' post='2846053']
    Try some "warming up" exercises before you even pick your bass up. Finger stretches & flexing your wrist on your way to rehearsals & gigs. It works for me.

    Maybe lift your bass up on the strap a wee bit too.
    [/quote]
    Warming up is a must for me starting a set.......I guess Id have to go with a some of these suggestions if it happen towards the end.

    That's never happened to me before

  9. Best is always subjective. I find it interesting that some of the best builders are barely known at all. For instance I recently came across this builder that lives in my home town that I never knew of up until a few months ago.....take a peek

    [url="http://www.moore-basses.com"]www.moore-basses.com[/url]

    Absolutely beautiful basses

  10. [quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1438781045' post='2837215']
    So I sell bottled water and label it "not for human consumption".
    100 people drink it and they are ok.
    Person 101 gets a upset stomach, and complains... You think they have grounds for complaining?[/quote]

    That pretty much say's it all

  11. [quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1438761448' post='2836912']
    And having owned several basses fitted with the Schaller 3D bridge, I can confidently say that the saddles do not move when the strings are changed. The wheel mechanism is sufficiently stiff to prevent this.
    [/quote]
    Good to know, your experience has increased my confidence

    [quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1438769865' post='2837021']
    Haven't you ever changed the bridge spacing on a bass?
    It is noticeable, the bass is playable, and it's beautiful. We're talking small changes, but noticeable small changes.
    Take my 75RI Jazz bass. There is a LOT of space between the edge and the 1st and 4th strings. Using the Fender threaded saddles I widened the spacing at the bridge to just over 20mm-ish. [/quote]
    Exactly!

  12. [quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1438721713' post='2836743']


    Oh, I know how 1mm can make a noticeable difference!
    I've been using those old threaded saddle Fender bridges on a few basses precisely so that I can adjust the spacing. It's very rudimentary but the difference it makes is nice, for me. I like that on the Schaller I can set the spacing more easily, and it'll stay unchanged through string changes.
    I had no idea these bridges existed! :)
    [/quote]
    There are a few other manufacturers also. But I thought I should mention if anyone is interested in these that I selected the 2000 bridge because you can lock down the position of the saddle with a hex wrench. The attached site shows a different style which you can adjust with your finger. I didn't really like that option thinking that the saddle would move every time you changed strings. I preferred something more fixed....but to each his own

    http://guitar-parts.biz/hp135061/Bassbridge-3D-4.htm?ITServ=C5ad2c08eX14efb3e7a3cX1036

  13. [quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1438715815' post='2836667']


    very nice!
    [/quote]
    Thanks. I'm running them on a 4 and 5 string. A millimeter doesn't seem like a lot, but it does make a big difference.

    And if you like your current bass but want to change the spacing, its a great way to go.

  14. [quote name='Skol303' timestamp='1438684505' post='2836325']
    When I switch to a 4-string with wider spacing it does feel more 'forgiving' - so I'm hoping that the narrower spacing of the Warwick will prove to be good discipline in terms of sharpening my technique.
    [/quote]
    It will

  15. [quote name='Opticaleye' timestamp='1438695550' post='2836459']
    The 4 string 2 band active Sandbergs have a tone control that works even with the battery removed in passive mode. My vote would be the all passive Sandberg Umbo though.

    Not the best recording but....

    [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-RjmUFec40"]https://www.youtube....h?v=T-RjmUFec40[/url]
    [/quote]
    Yeah I kind of gear towards passive basses, even though most of mine our active.

    But I guess this is not answering the OP's question.....sorry I distracted from the topic, but thank you for the information

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