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goonieman

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Posts posted by goonieman

  1. [quote name='Treb' timestamp='1437935096' post='2830182']
    I would clean it with turps, then apply a polymerising wood oil mixture. Something like Danish Oil or another tung oil & boiled linseed oil mixture with a cobalt catalyst. Remember an oil finish should penetrate the wood instead of forming a layer on top of the wood.

    Ebony being such a dense wood it probably will not absorb much oil if any at all. Ebony doesn't require a finish...
    [/quote]

    hold on there: OP said that he doesn't want the coating/hardening effect of danish oil. He wants just to treat the bare wood.

  2. Well, I was SANDING the neck, so I started at 400 grit!

    What I would do is clean the fretboard with the soapy mix, then straight into the 9u (if you can find it!). Then wipe off the dust and apply the oil.

    lemon oil is mineral oil, which is basically a petroleum oil. You could use linseed if you want to keep it neutral, but dunlop 65 lemon oil - or whatever it is - is basically mineral oil with fragrance added. Mineral oil is neutral. Don't use olive oil because it can go rancid.

    It's not a lot of work - maybe 20-30 mins all together. Don't fear the fretboard. It's very resilient.

  3. [quote name='zawinul' timestamp='1437921767' post='2829990']
    Cheers this all sounds like good advice. What's the best cleaner?

    People have said use Tung oil which dries hard like expoxy would this be a.good idea?
    [/quote]

    No way - unless you want a thin lacquer, rather than a wood treatment. Tung oil is a resin, whereas lemon oil (aka mineral oil with scented ingredients.. LOL... no lemons involved whatsoever) is a penetrating oil and keeps the wood soft.

    Tung oil is like to be sticky and/or gummy over time. You do not want a coating on that ebony in my opinion, just healthy ebony, especially if you want to move around fast.

    I've just finished my ebony board and went down to 9u (micron) sandpaper (much finer than steel wool!).

    Just clean gunk with some mild soapy water and an old t-shirt, then let dry and coat with mineral oil, then remove excess after 20 mins. If the wood is 'thirsty' you might need another coat.

    You would only want to do this once a year or a little more if its a warm dry climate near the bass...

  4. Hi All,

    For those who were following the thread on the 'sad and tragic failures of the 'new' rockbass streamer fretless' - ([url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/266450-the-sad-and-tragic-failures-of-the-new-rockbass-streamer-fretless/"]http://basschat.co.u...eamer-fretless/[/url])

    ...here is the promising and invigorating sequel:

    First off, I got just over 20% discount to compensate for the situation of the bass - which was obviously not enough, but it's better than a kick on the nether regions.

    Second, I went to work on fixing the neck. I gave it the classic heat treatment by clamping the heel, weighting down the headstock, and setting straight via heat from a household iron. I gave it 3 x 4hr treatments over 3 days, leaving to rest for around 18hrs after each. The neck came out very good in the end, but there was a persistant hollow from frets 1-4 (16 thou deep), and a slight bulge a frets 5-7 and 14-18. (classic s-curve or gooseneck)

    So I then took to levelling the whole board with my stew mac straight edge and sticky sanding paper. I also rounded all the edges a touch for a more comfortable feel. This job took edges: Ebony is HARD! I mean HARD HARD. Wow - I have a new appreciation for ebony.

    It came out dead straight! I set it up last night with a shim, and this morning there was still no movement in the action or relief. The just-a-nut II also needed to be sanded down at the bass because it could not drop low enough. LOL. What are the factory workers thinking?!

    I've setup again today with a balanced set of chrome flatwounds, with 0.001" relief (yeah, that's ONE THOU), and 3/64 and 4/64 action (it could even go lower). No nasty buzzing, no dead spots.

    RESULT: Successful rescue!

    Loving this bass. It's got great resonance and my fingers fly around the fretboard. Plays like butter. The colour is a yellowy cream and is awesome. Fretboard has great figuring in the ebony.

    Next step is active electronics. The stock MEC's are a but muddy, so not sure what to about that.

    [attachment=197184:FullSizeRender (25).jpg][attachment=197188:FullSizeRender (24).jpg][attachment=197185:FullSizeRender (21).jpg][attachment=197186:FullSizeRender (22).jpg][attachment=197187:FullSizeRender (23).jpg]

  5. Nah, the washer trick doesn't really generate much currency in the turnage department in general (my personal experience - but i'm happy to hear other experiences!). Certainly not enough to take out 1 or 2mm relief remaining in the neck.

    The core issue remains a warped neck, so i'll be looking to address that root cause first.

    The shop owners have offered my £50 off... so i'm scratching my head whether its worth it to keep the bass.

  6. [quote name='pmjos' timestamp='1437728403' post='2828505']
    1. Have fun
    2. Stick with it
    3. Play the best sounding bass you can afford
    4. Listen to what other musicians play not what they say

    If it's in your soul you will get it. :)
    [/quote]

    ^ this,

    ...and I vote 'without lines' ( but am definitely pro side markers!). The learning curve is greater, but more satisfying in the end. Also, fret lines are only general markers. If you intonate at the 12 fret, you still have to play sharp/flat (relative to the line) at either extreme of the fretboard.

    Another tip not mentioned here: a good setup! For me = almost deadflat relief (0.0015 to 0.005 max) and low action (4/64ths to 3/64ths) should be about right for lots of good resonating tones. Nut height also crucial, and right hand technique on fretboard, as well as other places for bringing different dynamics.

    Don't let people tell you slides are naff. Rather, the way most people on youtube use slides = naff. Bakhiti Khumalo is not naff. Bakhiti Khumalo is a hero.

  7. [quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1437680433' post='2828217']
    Yeah that's a lot of relief already. But I think since the truss rod is working it is probably fixable. Does it backbow with the rod maxed and no strings on?.
    You should probably get a refund but it is a lovely looking bass, so me I would try get a discount and I would fix it.
    [/quote]

    There is a hint of backbow when the truss is maxed and no strings - so that is a good sign that the truss at least has an impact.

    I've been doing 'guerilla fix-ups' for many years, so I am undaunted. This is one of the joys of learning how to setup these instruments and having a keen interest in the 'how' and 'why' questions of these beasts.

    I'll probably go for a cheap active preamp replacement if I get a discount:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TONE-MONSTER-SEB3-A-Preamp-Guitar-Bass-Balance-Volume-Treble-Bass-Middle-12dB-/181790951655?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a5395c8e7

  8. [quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1437673754' post='2828134']
    A dog is a dog, pretty or not - send it back and don't entertain the thoughts you have to fixing it up.
    [/quote]

    Half of me knows your right... but the power of the fixer-upper force in this one is strong...

    The low pickup and saddle issue will cancel out as soon as I put a shim in the neck. The tone control issue is a 2 min solder job.

    The neck is the big question mark. If I get a discount from the supplier i'm going to look into that.

    It's too pretty to pass-off so quick. I've never seen one in white/cream, and the ebony fretboard is lovely.

    I'll let y'all know how I get on in a few days. THanks for all the support. I love this place! :D

  9. [quote name='bluejay' timestamp='1437664348' post='2828009']
    I imagined it could have sat in the shop, new and almost untouched, for years, and by the sound of goonieman's description, there would have been a good reason for that...
    [/quote]

    Spot on bluejay. It's an 06 model - and I should have known better. I was smitten by the colour and the prospect of a fretless.

    I have done heat treatments that have worked a treat - seems to work better on 3-5 piece necks because of the glue. If I get a could discount, I could put some backbow back into the neck, get a new tone cap for the potentiometer, a shim, and bobs your uncle.

  10. [quote name='ForestPoetry' timestamp='1437662903' post='2827993']

    I'm pretty sceptical of the Rockbasses. That looks like an older one without the 3D bridge. Does it say "Rockbass" on the headstock instead of the "W"?

    [/quote]

    the very same.

    I'm gutted. Half-tempted to fix it up myself and tell them i'd rather take a discount. What are the odds? They just won't believe me right?
    I'd need a £100 back... bought it for £245 to the door.

    What say ye?

  11. ...and here we go again.

    Bought 'new' from a small european retailer. Was promised it was new, setup by a pro, no issues.

    Major issue 1: SERIOUS concave bow - even with no string tension. Under string tension, I maxed-out the truss and there is still around 1-2mm relief. Way too much for my liking, especially given the truss is maxed (I dare push no further - there is definite clear and present danger because of sudden resistance in turning. "fools tread..."

    Minor issue 1: The balance knob is wired wrong way around. LOL. no real biggie, but still... :rolleyes:

    Minor issue 2: Needs a shim. Duh. :rolleyes:

    Minor issue 3: The tone control does almost nothing. Seriously. Almost no effect at all. :blink:

    Minor issue 4: the pickups are bottomed-out. Nowhere further to dig-in, with only 1-2mm clearance from strings to the top of pups. Not quite right. :huh:

    Minor issue 5: clear signs of play from roundwounds on neck. Not much. No biggie, but still...

    Result: FAIL

    I have started a conversation about a return.

    Such a shame, because she's a beauty! And the tigerstripe ebony feels like heaven to the touch. Good balance to it too. Awesome colour.

    If had a bought it dirt cheap I would fix it up myself.

    Someone out there have a good one?

    Sigh... back to searching...

  12. Hi All,

    Anyone notice that squier seem to have discontinued their original line of classic vibes? I'm after a 2nd hand 60s one and they just do not appear in classifieds or shops!

    I guess they were threatening the MIM sales - and others. It's a shame they only have the new J bass line in Inca silver. I preferred the old white ones.

    If they brought a new line in daphne/sonic blue or seafoam it would be game over for me. I guess all those predictions about these being 'future classics' are looking to come true. I remember when they first came out they were around £220 new! Now they're 350!

  13. Howdie all.

    I bought this from Raslee on here - and it was a pleasure.

    It's a cheeky little devil - USA pickups and unknown replacement body onto a squier VM fretless.

    Been playing guitar for 20 years, and bass for 10, but still cannot believe i've never tried a fretless, and I must say, I think i've seen the light.

    I setup this up yesterday with some D'addario custom chrome flats (courtesy of the 50% deal from here that's just closed). I lowered the action right down and straightened the neck out almost dead straight (a hair of relief)...

    ...and whoa, what a player! :) Fantastic growl over the bridge pickup, and plenty of singing mwah when picking at the heel of the neck. I must have played it for around 3-4 hours straight yesterday! The tones from the pups are excellent - clean and full. No muffling or sharpness or mid-range bark. Very balanced and almost flat to my ears.

    The only downside I can find is that some of those fretless lines stand proud imperceptibly - which means there is a very pronounced increase to the mwah on some notes if not targeted properly. Nothing some 3M sandpaper won't handle! You can juuuuust about feel the plastic standing high... it's almost psychological and I have to run past it several times to make sure it really is actually a little proud... but it does have an impact.

    Anyway, I was expecting to struggle with the fretless arrangement - but its surprisingly easy to get the hang of it. Now I can learn to play all those Baghiti Khumalo licks (see 'Graceland' - Paul SImon). It also opens up Indian Ragas as a possibility!

    It's been a while since i've had a musical revelation of this magnitude. If you're on the fence - get off it and go get a VM fretless!

  14. I have personally dealt with, and fixed , several twisted necks using heat treatment - the majority of which have worked (at least as far as i've owned the instruments - which have never been for longer than 6 months!)

    The equipment i've used has been 'lo-fi' - i.e. some g-clamps, iron bars, and heating irons.

    One of the main threads that I agree with, in terms of procedure, is this one: http://www.talkbass.com/threads/rescuing-a-badly-twisted-1964-jazz-bass-neck.1137165/

    But firstly, as subsonicsimpleton suggests, are you sure its twisted? Rest a good metal ruler on one end, and another up the other end (being sure to balance the rulers!). You'll tell pretty fast how twisted it is.

    I can add more as the discussion develops on my own personal experiences...

  15. [quote name='Samfordia' timestamp='1435611958' post='2810688']
    Bumper to bumper, the avenue's packed
    [/quote]

    [color=#000000][font=Verdana, Arial][size=3][center]I'm trying to get away before the jackers jack[/center][/size][/font][/color]
    [color=#000000][font=Verdana, Arial][size=3][center]Police on the scene, you know what I mean[/center][/size][/font][/color]
    [color=#000000][font=Verdana, Arial][size=3][/size][/font][/color][color=#000000][font=Verdana, Arial][size=3][center]They passed me up, confronted all the dope fiends ;)[/center][/size][/font][/color]

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