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stereoplayer

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Posts posted by stereoplayer

  1. The bass in question, my main,  is a bass that I put together originally in 1982 using:

    1971 Fender  fretless maple neck

    1982 Schecter Research  P/J body, Satin Walnut,  heavily contoured at least 3 times. Refinished 3 times. This is from the times Schecter sold Fender replacement parts.

    Tapped Schecter PU’s.  Probably made by Seymour Duncan. With 2 on/off/on switches.  Half volume, off, full volume. Stereo wiring

     When the P PU quit working some years ago, I tried to have Seymour Duncan make me a new one.  They told me then they probably make the PU’s for Schecter.  Not sure if true.  They tried twice to build me what I wanted.  I ended up buying PU’s  from Joe Barden.  They fit perfectly without covers with the mounting tabs on the bottom of the PU.

    I recently had Tom Brantley , http://tombrantleyrewinds.com/, repair/build my old tapped P PU. It’s arriving soon. So I’m going back to my tapped PU system.

    So, after taking the electronics out, I’m going to rub it out and give it a fresh waxing before installing the old tapped PU’s back in.

     

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    • Like 3
  2. 21 hours ago, stereoplayer said:

    Thanks!  I’m supposed to talk to my luthier tonight.  I haven’t heard from him and need a progress report.

    I talked to him last night.  The contours have been pretty much completed. Next up is the control cavity and wiring chases.  We discussed doing a mortise on the end jack plate.

     

    Hopefully,  I can post pictures soon, he’s having phone troubles.  He’s supposed to send me pics soon somehow.

    • Like 1
  3. 7 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

    That body is going to look fabulous once all of the shaping is done and the finish put on - NA Walnut is a beautiful wood :)

     

    Thanks!  I’m supposed to talk to my luthier tonight.  I haven’t heard from him and need a progress report.

    • Like 1
  4. Some will describe this better than me, but...

    Assuming it is a fretted neck, the distance from the nut to the 12th fret should be equally the distance of the 12th fret to the bridge saddles.  The saddles should be in a position(the mid way of travel)  so they  can be adjusted either towards or backwards, for intonation adjustments.  Use string( the E and G) from the machine heads to the bridge to line up the position of the strings.

     

    Take your time and carefully think this out. Possibly YouTube has a video?

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  5. My babinga fretless neck is done and temporarily installed on my MIM Fender J body. The nut(not glued in) is also temporary.  I’m putting a babinga or walnut nut on it.

    The neck  is for my walnut build thread.

     

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  6. Until my custom body is built,  the new neck is on my MIM  Jazz bass body now.  I installed the string retainer, I might tweak that a little.

    I’m had to raise the saddles quite high.  I’m letting it set a bit under tension before giving it a serious tryout.  Right  now it seems to play better than the Fender neck that was in the Jazz.

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    • Like 5
  7. 2 minutes ago, Killed_by_Death said:

     

    I don't even like single-cut guitars, just put the top strap button as close to parallel with the 12th fret as you can & I'll be alright.

     

    Well, Les Pauls are pretty cool!

    • Confused 1
  8. 2 hours ago, prowla said:

    I would’ve liked two channels for my Rics, but I think I’ll survive!

    It looks as if it has two channels.  But only one output.  I was thinking of my stereo basses too!

    Maybe it would be interesting using with my stereo basses to a one amp situation.

     

    I'm pretty sure it costs quite a bit!

  9. I started to polish and rub out and wax the bass neck.

     

    I also contacted the luthier reminding him of the PU wiring routes.  One of the routes will  have 6 wires passing thru it.

     

    I wonder how my custom J PU set is going?

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