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HowieBass

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Posts posted by HowieBass

  1. [quote name='DaveFry' timestamp='1436300079' post='2816937']
    [url="http://haakonthelin.com/multiphonics/multiphonics-on-the-double-bass/definitions/introduction-to-multiphonics-on-the-double-bass#Content-of-this-survey"]http://haakonthelin....-of-this-survey[/url]

    :ph34r:
    [/quote]

    That's interesting, muting the partials to achieve colouration. I wonder if the OP is more interested in additive synthesis, adding partials to the fundamental to create timbre. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Additive_synthesis

  2. Take it back to the shop and complain? If it's a Cash Converters I think you get a few weeks within which to return faulty goods. I haven't heard of many complaints about Zoom build quality and plenty of BCers own the pedals on here.

  3. A fair few new Windows laptops have USB 3 ports. As I've mentioned elsewhere on here I think LibreOffice is a great free alternative to MS Office and also I'd recommend the equally good and free Avast for antivirus software. I'm currently using a Samsung laptop with a Core i3 processor, 6GB RAM, running 64bit Windows 7 - performance isn't bad at all for a machine that's close to 3 years old. I understand that the performance should improve when Windows 10 comes out. I tried a couple of laptops before I bought it, the thing that made me choose this was better specs for the same price compared to other makes in the store and I preferred the trackpad on this over all the others.

  4. Of the things that contribute to tone I can think of pickup placement, pickup type, electronics, strings, and instrument construction. Pickup placement is clearly important but so are quite a few of the other factors. If you know what's gone into your Ken Smith Burner then replicating all of those should get you pretty close (making adjustments to the pickup position as appropriate to the shorter scale length)... but I suspect you'd only find out exactly how close, once the new five string is ready to play...

  5. It's there if you need it I suppose... I've got 4 active basses and 1 passive (which is my Squier VM P bass) and I run them all through my Zoom B9 in front of the amp... the B9 has a setting to switch between active or passive instrument input but I haven't bothered to change it because when the P bass arrived it was putting out as much signal as the actives pretty much (in fact a little louder compared to some of the instruments). My Genz Benz combo has no switchable input pad so I guess it's expected that you vary the input gain as required.

  6. Hope you get the preamp sorted but don't be afraid of learning how to do a set-up yourself - it's really quite straightforward. The bass should come with tools (hex keys) to adjust the truss rod and the saddles you then need (ideally) a steel rule with at least 32nds of an inch markings (64th is better) and/or millimetres. I tend to favour the Fender recommendations and it takes less than half an hour for me to get everything dialled in. http://intl.fender.com/en-GB/support/articles/bass-guitar-setup-guide/

  7. Buzzing in the middle of the neck to me sounds like you just need a bit higher action but I'd ideally check the relief by holding the strings down to use as a straight edge (there are various ways of doing this). You usually find that fret buzz near the nut is a consequence of too little relief and fret buzz at the body end is too much relief whereas fret buzz in the middle of the neck is usually due to the action set too low - the thing is, if it's developed recently it probably is the change in weather affecting the neck but as has been suggested, you could be chasing this backwards and forwards until we get a more settled spell of weather. Without being able to measure the relief I'd be inclined to raise the saddles a hair and see if it improves.

  8. If you've changed the neck relief, the action and the neck angle and nothing affects the fret buzz then I can't think of much else left to change - assuming you've approached this as if you were setting it up from scratch. The thing is, if it played well before and now, with the change in the weather, you're getting fret buzz, then that's only really going to be down to one thing, the neck relief has changed, and that's all you should be looking at to get it back playing well again. No need to add or remove shims, no need to change the action, no need to play around with the nut... just get the relief back to how it was previously.

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